Material / structural advice needed

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I want to be able to "disconnect" my rooftop tent from my Jeep when camping. I've got some trips coming up where I might be in a single location for a week and I'd like to be able to keep the tent at height, but drive out from under it. My thoughts are to mount two hollow crossbars to the tent much like the crossbars on my roof rack, then when I get to a place where I'd camp, I'd insert four legs that have a 90 degree radius at the top allowing the legs to sit outside of my tires. The feet would have some height adjustment and would at the very least require me to lift up one side at a time to raise the tent high enough that I could drive out from under it.

I've got a basic design in mind that would fit all the functional requirements, but I'm not quite sure on the best material and size of the tubes to meet the strength requirements while not being overbuilt and adding unnecessary weight.

Anyone have any suggestions? Mounting to a trailer isn't an option, as many of these trips will involve towing a boat.
 
I stored my RTT on scaffolding from Harbor Freight so that I could slide the tent off of my truck, tow rig, and onto the scaffolding not having to lift it.

I've since sold the RTT and if I was you I'd buy a nice ground tent and sleeping pad so you don't have to deal with the RTT.
 
If Rube Goldberg ever tried tent camping, I imagine it would be something like this.

Why can’t you just bring a regular ole tent-in-a-bag?

If you do pursue the tent on stilts idea, definitely plan on using cross-bracing between the legs. At the very least, some pictures of your tent frame and roof rack frame would help us brainstorm with ya.
 
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If you're set on sticking with the RTT, why not put it on a trailer? Can build a sturdier/safer rack system for the trailer that is permanent. I see lots of guys doing it with Harbor Freight 4x6 trailers that can apparently be had for fairly cheap.

I've got my RTT mounted on a rack over-top a bantum style trailer. You get the convenience of a RTT, but you can also unhook and explore the area if you want to keep camp in one spot for a couple of days. But as others have said, a $100 Coleman tent would get you the same flexibility for 1% the price...

Edit: Almost forgot the biggest con of the trailer mounted route: people around town won't know you're a legit overlander cause your RTT isn't on top of your rig contributing to you mpg.
 
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I want to be able to "disconnect" my rooftop tent from my Jeep when camping. I've got some trips coming up where I might be in a single location for a week and I'd like to be able to keep the tent at height, but drive out from under it. My thoughts are to mount two hollow crossbars to the tent much like the crossbars on my roof rack, then when I get to a place where I'd camp, I'd insert four legs that have a 90 degree radius at the top allowing the legs to sit outside of my tires. The feet would have some height adjustment and would at the very least require me to lift up one side at a time to raise the tent high enough that I could drive out from under it.

I've got a basic design in mind that would fit all the functional requirements, but I'm not quite sure on the best material and size of the tubes to meet the strength requirements while not being overbuilt and adding unnecessary weight.

Anyone have any suggestions? Mounting to a trailer isn't an option, as many of these trips will involve towing a boat.

Check out jack posts at your local building supply store. Hold lots of weight, adjustable, have the height you need, weigh roughly 40 pounds each. You will need cross bracing for sure.
 
I stored my RTT on scaffolding from Harbor Freight so that I could slide the tent off of my truck, tow rig, and onto the scaffolding not having to lift it.

I've since sold the RTT and if I was you I'd buy a nice ground tent and sleeping pad so you don't have to deal with the RTT.

I’ve already got a hoist making it easy to remove/install/store.

Been down that road with ground tents, sleeping pads, mattresses, luxurylite cots, etc. I prefer the larger sleeping space of a RTT.

If Rube Goldberg ever tried tent camping, I imagine it would be something like this.

Why can’t you just bring a regular ole tent-in-a-bag?

If you do pursue the tent on stilts idea, definitely plan on using cross-bracing between the legs. At the very least, some pictures of your tent frame and roof rack frame would help us brainstorm with ya.

Yes. Cross bracing is in the plan. I’ll try draw something up, but basically two upside down U’s, with a brace on either side connecting the two U’s to make it rigid.

Will the poles be just for holding it up while moving the jeep, or do you plan to sleep in it that way?

https://mountainoffroad.com/collections/jeep/products/jeep-jl-rooftop-tent-rack
:oops: $$$

Sleeping. I saw that. Crazy expensive and it looks to be grossly over engineered.

If you're set on sticking with the RTT, why not put it on a trailer? Can build a sturdier/safer rack system for the trailer that is permanent. I see lots of guys doing it with Harbor Freight 4x6 trailers that can apparently be had for fairly cheap.

I've got my RTT mounted on a rack over-top a bantum style trailer. You get the convenience of a RTT, but you can also unhook and explore the area if you want to keep camp in one spot for a couple of days. But as others have said, a $100 Coleman tent would get you the same flexibility for 1% the price...

Edit: Almost forgot the biggest con of the trailer mounted route: people around town won't know you're a legit overlander cause your RTT isn't on top of your rig contributing to you mpg.

Some of these trips… I’ll be towing a boat. Can’t tow two trailers at once. 😉

Not worried about the mpg. The tent is only mounted for trips. I like driving with the top down too much to keep the tent on all the time.

Check out jack posts at your local building supply store. Hold lots of weight, adjustable, have the height you need, weigh roughly 40 pounds each. You will need cross bracing for sure.

Tiger Brand Jack Post JS-93 - Size Range 4'5"-7'9" (15Ga) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B1AMQ4/?tag=wranglerorg-20

16lbs each and just one will support 11,350lbs. 😆

I’ll look into the jack posts. That seems like it could easily do the trick while not being overly heavy either. Especially considering the telescope as well. 4’5” would be easier to transport than a full height post.
 
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Been down that road with ground tents, sleeping pads, mattresses, luxurylite cots, etc. I prefer the larger sleeping space of a RTT.

Larger space? When I sold my rooftop tent I bought an 8 person tent, interior space is 16' x 7', and you can easily inflate two queen size inflatable mattresses leaving room to spare inside. It only weighs 6.7 lbs and packs to ‎27.5"L x 9.25"W x 9"H takes maybe 10 minutes to put up, no ladders and it has a 6' 6" tall interior height.
 
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Larger space? When I sold my rooftop tent I bought an 8 person tent, interior space is 16' x 7', and you can easily inflate two queen size inflatable mattresses leaving room to spare inside. It only weighs 6.7 lbs and packs to ‎27.5"L x 9.25"W x 9"H takes maybe 10 minutes to put up, no ladders and it has a 6' 6" tall interior height.

Sorry, I mean the pad. Having a single mattress that covers the whole area is preferable to me as my dog is sharing the bed. I have a *large ground tent(fits three queen mattresses) and an inflatable queen size mattress. Used that on last trip to Mexico but it just didn’t do it for me. Being on the ground meant that it filled with sand pretty quickly in the wind. And the overall rigidity… it just flapped around too much keeping my dog awake. Which then means I’m awake too.
 
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Most material suppliers sell specific telescoping tubing. It's like standard tubing but either seamless or the seam has been smoothed out to increase clearance. I would recommend sticking with aluminum.

My biggest concern would be with racking forces, since the legs would act as very long levers. Perhaps a few bolt-on stays at 45 degree angles to the main posts would solve that issue.