Just got finished installing my MCE front fenders and I noticed the gap from the top of my grill to my hood is about 1/4”-1/2” larger than it was prior to the install. Has anyone else has a similar issue?
MCE Fender Install Hood and Grille Gap
- Thread starter Dick_Slade
- Start date
Too late now, but when I installed mine I scribed the flare and trimmed it to fit tight to the inner fender under the hood. Mine don't have much of a gap at the grill.
I didnt do this and still had no gap. I'm not even sure how to get a gap. Is the flare not down tight against what remains of the steel fender?
Interesting. I trimmed mine because I saw that there would be a large gap up front if I didn't.
You're talking about a horizontal gap between the front lip of the fender and the grill though, right? I think the OP is talking about a vertical gap between the top of the grill and the hood, like something is preventing the hood from closing all the way.
On the horizontal gap, I just did a bunch of test fitting and tried different locations for the fenders (front to back) until I found the best fit and it came out pretty tight. I'm sure they're made to fit a nominal tj and probably fit some better than others.
The gap from the top of grille to the bottom of hood looks similar to where it was prior to installing. I would think it would be the same since you remove the rubber hood bumpers on the factory fender. I think they are thicker than the flare is.
Maybe some pictures of your install might help.
Pic below is after I straightened them out since they were a bit droopy when I originally installed them.
Maybe some pictures of your install might help.
Pic below is after I straightened them out since they were a bit droopy when I originally installed them.
OP
Pretty much right where your left hand is at is where my gap is. The horizontal gap from where the hood curves down by the latches to where it meets the grill is the same as before. I'll try and snap a picture today once its light enough to give a better example. It seems the hood latches are what is preventing the hood from seating all the way and giving the proper vertical gap to the grill. I wonder if trimming around where the hood latch bolts over the MCE flare to recess it down a little would help at all.
My MCEs do slightly droop so that could be my issue but I thought that was just the plastic fender itself drooping and not the remains of the fender that the MCE sits on after cutting. I might give a go at bending them up to see if that helps.
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OP
These are the two best pictures I have prior to the MCE install. There's a slight normal and even gap between the hood and the grill.
Heres the after install pictures. In the light it now seems the right side fender (if looking out the drivers window) is seated properly but its the left side fender that seems to be lifted up 1/4'-1/2' inches causing that vertical gap. the MCE fender is seated and tightened down just like the other side is but I noticed the hood latch is completely resting on the hood latch base preventing it from sitting down any lower.
Initially I thought it was an illusion from not having the stock fenders on but in the light its clear that one side sits higher than the other. I'm wondering if bending the fender up to reduce the droop would do anything at all to help the hood seat down further.
Heres the after install pictures. In the light it now seems the right side fender (if looking out the drivers window) is seated properly but its the left side fender that seems to be lifted up 1/4'-1/2' inches causing that vertical gap. the MCE fender is seated and tightened down just like the other side is but I noticed the hood latch is completely resting on the hood latch base preventing it from sitting down any lower.
Initially I thought it was an illusion from not having the stock fenders on but in the light its clear that one side sits higher than the other. I'm wondering if bending the fender up to reduce the droop would do anything at all to help the hood seat down further.
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If you push down on the hood does the gap close? When I did mine I noticed my hood latches were a little more loose because they sit on top of the fenders and raise the latch deck by the thickness of the MCE. Your driver side might just be a little aged and not pulling tight.
Mine were always a little droopy, but it seemed the best way to straighten them out was by moving the lower edge of the back of the fender forward or backward. I just never did it cause I was too lazy to drill another hole for the keeper.
Mine were always a little droopy, but it seemed the best way to straighten them out was by moving the lower edge of the back of the fender forward or backward. I just never did it cause I was too lazy to drill another hole for the keeper.
You are local! I live less than a minute from Independent4x shop and know those guys. If you need a hand this jeep I may be able to help.
It almost looks like you driver side fender is higher. At least towardsthe grill. There does seem to be more of a gap on the divers side before the MCE fenders based on the pics. You did remove the grommet front the top of the fender before putting the MCE flares on right?
Have you tried loosening the 3 bolts that connect the grill to fender. They are behind the headlight. I am not sure the MCE fenders are the primary cause. Was the jeep ever in a small accident?
It almost looks like you driver side fender is higher. At least towardsthe grill. There does seem to be more of a gap on the divers side before the MCE fenders based on the pics. You did remove the grommet front the top of the fender before putting the MCE flares on right?
Have you tried loosening the 3 bolts that connect the grill to fender. They are behind the headlight. I am not sure the MCE fenders are the primary cause. Was the jeep ever in a small accident?
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OP
It goes down a tiny bit but still not enough to be even with the passenger side height wise. The hood latch hits the hood latch base attached to the fender so it wont push down any further. I might have to try and push the whole fender down a tad to allow the hood to close more.
Oh nice! That's a great shop that I'm really happy I found after moving here. They just got done installing my locker and Super 35 kit due to an old bent axle shaft.
Taking a look I agree my driver side fender does seem to sit higher than the passenger! Is there a way of adjusting that with loosening any bolts or just a bend down with pressure type deal? Yeah I was sure to remove those grommets from both sides.
As far as I know the Jeep was never an accident from what Carfax told me when I purchased it. I might try loosening the top bolt to the grill that holds the MCE bracket in place and see if that does anything.
OP
Finally fixed. Took a bit of tender love with a heat gun but now the flares sit perfectly flat and no more hood gap. Had to adjust the front mounting bracket to get the driver and passenger flare to sit at an even height.
Fixed the hood latch issue by buying some locking hood latches to also protect my ARB air locker under the hood. The locking hood latches definitely feel more secure than the OEM rubber ones.
Fixed the hood latch issue by buying some locking hood latches to also protect my ARB air locker under the hood. The locking hood latches definitely feel more secure than the OEM rubber ones.
Glad you got it fixed. I had to wrestle mine quite a but with the heat gun too.
We need pics of the finished product!
OP
Finally super satisfied with how the MCE Fender sit and look as well as the even spacing in the hood (or as close to even as it will get!). I probably could have bent the fenders a little more up with a heat gun but its a big improvement with how far they drooped down when I first put them on. What I like about the locking hood latches is they are adjustable so I could raise and lower the driver/passenger sides of the hood if needed.
Also got my Motobilt Stubby Bumper and 33x10.50 BFG KO2s on from the last photos I took.
Also got my Motobilt Stubby Bumper and 33x10.50 BFG KO2s on from the last photos I took.
Looks good, looks like the mce flares are closer to the same height. The rear OE flare seems to sit higher then the front always bugs me.
The rears can sit as high or as low as you want depending on where they are screwed into the body.
UKTJ
TJ Addict
Looks great.
But unimpressive quality if you have to take a heat gun to yhem to get them to fit properly.
I think it's more a function of the material they are made out of than lack of quality control.
They can be smashed pretty hard and massaged back into shape with a heat gun again.
A more ridged plastic that could hold tighter tolerances during injection molding would be more brittle and likely to break not flex and fold and spring back.
for example, A glass reinforced nylon would be super ridged and look great and can be injection molded to tight QC standards but would fracture not flex.
I would agree with that. I would have never paid the ordinal $800 or so they asked for these when they first came out.
I think it's more then sitting in a box on shelf that caused the issue I had.