MML vs Low Profile Transmission Mount
- Thread starter Squatch
- Start date
Did you buy direct from them, or via a vendor? What's the history behind this company? Weren't they owned by AEV, and then disappeared for a while, and now made a come back? What's the scoop chicken coop?
Ordered direct from their website. They are now owned by knowwhere2jeep.com. When they finally called back, the dude stated that they had been waiting for parts which had arrived on Fri. Was going to be shipped Mon and arrive yesterday. Guess what?? Called again and left another message this am. So far, no live person has ever answered the phone; have only rec one call back after 3 messages; and no mount although they charged my cc the day after I placed the order.
Well, that is disheartening, but seems typical for many of the companies we deal with for specialty jeep parts. We must all be a bunch of suckers to put up with poor customer service. They aren't the only ones with sketchy CS.
By raising the motor or lowering the TC that would change the angle of the output shaft on the TC. If you have a cv driveshaft that might be ok but with stock u-joints don't the angles of the TC output shaft and pinion have to be the same? And how would lowering the TC affect the front driveline angles, by reducing the angle of the driveshaft would you also have to reduce the front pinion angle to match? And that would change the caster as well.
It is an attempt to bring the ujoints to the same angles. A dc shaft does not need that and should be adjusted with the control arms. The front shaft isn't affected all that much due to it having a dc joint.
My lj has about a 2' rear driveshaft. A 1" drop is about a 2.4 degree change. The front is about 3' which is about 1.6 degrees. I've been reading a lot about caster and front pinion angle lately as I'm installing an OME lift on it now. As for the dc joint the pinion angle still has to match the driveshaft angle, doesn't it?
That opens up the adjust for pinion angle or caster debate. I've read good arguments for both. Guess I'll have to set my pinion angle to the driveshaft and cut the axle tubes, rotate the steering knuckles for caster and re-weld the tubes... it's so simple I don't know why I didn't think of it before. LOL. I'm just not a fan of trial and error but I'm probably going to have to get over that.
Before you start cutting axle tubes, re-welding brackets, and adjusting front pinion angles, how much lift are we talking about...?
I have a TJR with an OME lift, and absolutely no driveshaft/pinion angle adjustments or changes were necessary, front or rear. I really can't see an LJ needing any, either, unless you are dead set on keeping the exact same pinion angles, just for exact sameness' sake, which seems pointless if not needed. It's your Jeep.
The pinion angle / caster 'debate' really only comes into play around the 4" and beyond amount of lift threshold IIRC.
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Sorry the cutting and welding was meant as a joke. Would probably try adjustable ball joints first(another joke).Only installing a 2.5 inch ome lift. Had to replace some of the control arms so I decided to just replace them all at once. Ended up getting the Rancho adjustable ones, they were a good price at RockAuto and Rancho is running rebates right now. Set them all pretty much right at the stock length just added less than a quarter inch to a couple of them after reading some other posts in the Forum. When everything's mounted and on the ground I'll go for a ride and take some measurements and adjust if necessary.
Weeeee
Member
When I did my Tummy Tuck back 7-8 years ago I used the following:
2000TJ NP231 T-case
UCF Ultra high clearance AL skid
Rokmen Rear upper control arms - I had Currie's but at the time they were not long enough
Midwest driveline rear CV driveshaft(local driveline shop)
AEV shock shifter
JB conversion SYE
JKS Body lift 1.25
Brown Dog Offroad Ultraflex 1" MML
Novak Cable Shifter - I did not initially purchase this but had could not shift the T-case reliably. This may or may not be needed.
I did not go with the Lo-pro mount because UCF did not have it available yet, it came out shortly after I bought all my parts.
2000TJ NP231 T-case
UCF Ultra high clearance AL skid
Rokmen Rear upper control arms - I had Currie's but at the time they were not long enough
Midwest driveline rear CV driveshaft(local driveline shop)
AEV shock shifter
JB conversion SYE
JKS Body lift 1.25
Brown Dog Offroad Ultraflex 1" MML
Novak Cable Shifter - I did not initially purchase this but had could not shift the T-case reliably. This may or may not be needed.
I did not go with the Lo-pro mount because UCF did not have it available yet, it came out shortly after I bought all my parts.
So, I'm assuming you have the original clearance skid from UCF? I ask because that virtually looks like my list for a TT...And how do you like the UCF aluminum? Is it 3/8" or 1/4"?
Weeeee
Member
It would be one of the originals it is 1/4 inch thick and is by far the best mod I have done to date. It is a ton of work and pricey but you will not be disappointed when you are done. Your jeep will be a different animal when it's done. Measure the before and after belly clearance and you will be so happy when you wheel it.