More questions on upgrading steering and other stuff

rookieTJ

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Good Evening All,

Alright, did ZJ steering conversion Thursday, all went well, installed Tie Rod BAR, Drag Link Bar, tie rod ends on both, removed drop pitman arm and installed stock one. Installed new tires, 33x12.5x15 BF Goodrich K02 A/T, wheels were balanced, old tires were some junk mud tires. Jeep rides quieter and smoother, but still steers on its own (but it still needs an alignment). Originally after installing the new steering, the Jeep wasn't driveable, because of the alignment, did a quick (did not measure) alignment in driveway, and got it driveable now. Can't seem to find a decent shop near me that does alignments on 4x4, and the ones that do are giving me appointments so far out. So I will attempt a driveway alignment with measuring tapes and what not. It still steers more to the left than to the right, when hitting bumps you really feel it and shakes, but it doesn't persist, goes away right after hitting bump. Steering is like I said all over the place but mainly to the left. I know I will need a a trackbar, I am wondering should I just get the Moog stock track bar, or an adjustable? If adjustable, anyone have any recommendations? But any recommendations on how to really get this steering fixed? Is this really only because of an alignment?

01' Jeep Sport, 4.0 5SPD MT, has a 3 inch lift (no idea what brand, PO installed) ZJ steering, new ball joints and lower control arms (will be installing new upper arms).

Thanks in advance.


EDIT: Also a new noise has started after tires were put on. When I am in a gear (any gear) and I let go of the gas pedal to say slow down, I hear a noise from the rear, but if I put it in neutral and let the car roll and slow down, no noise. Any ideas? I'm not sure how to describe the noise, maybe a low-pitched whine? definitely coming from the rear, and only when in a gear and no gas being applied. Sorry I suck at explaining in writing.... lol
 
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It takes a little longer to make the alignment rods than it does to actually do the alignment, really.
On that note, it also takes longer to take off the tires than to do the alignment.
Adjustable front track bar for sure, check your tire pressure, they should all be 25-28psi. If you have larger than 15" wheels, most likely you have load range E tires which generally have a much stiffer sidewall than "C's" and will ride "rougher". Hence the "hitting bumps" aftershock. Also w/ a 3"ish lift, you will at least want a rear trackbar relocation bracket, if not an adjustable rear bar as well. Stand straight ahead of your Jeep and look at the tires, you will notice (from the lift) the sidewalls will not be in plane, it won't affect the drivability much, but this is caused by the reaction of the stock trackbars to the lift.
 
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X2 to doing your own toe-in as described in the link above. With just normal care your toe-in will turn out just as accurately as any alignment shop could do.

Is the driver's side track bar mount still the stock factory mount? If you're not sure post a good sharp well lit (use the flash) photo here and we'll tell you. If a dropped bracket was attached to it you'll need to remove it,
 
X2 to doing your own toe-in as described in the link above. With just normal care your toe-in will turn out just as accurately as any alignment shop could do.

Is the driver's side track bar mount still the stock factory mount? If you're not sure post a good sharp well lit (use the flash) photo here and we'll tell you. If a dropped bracket was attached to it you'll need to remove it,
 
Why would you pay a shop to align a TJ? It's probably one of the easiest things you can do in your own garage, literally. See this thread: How to align your Jeep Wrangler TJ

You could use a stock (or Moog) track bar, but at 3" of lift, I'd probably get an adjustable track bar.

My favorite is the Currie front track bar. It's expensive, so if it's out of the budget, I'd suggest this JKS track bar:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005TTZO9O/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Figured, that’s the same one I was looking at just pulled the plug and ordered.

It takes a little longer to make the alignment rods than it does to actually do the alignment, really.
On that note, it also takes longer to take off the tires than to do the alignment.
Adjustable track bar for sure, check your tire pressure, they should all be 25-28psi. If you have larger than 15" wheels, most likely you have load range E tires which generally have a much stiffer sidewall than "C's" and will ride "rougher". hence the "hitting bumps" aftershock.

Running 15 inch wheels, 27 psi all the way around. I did quick alignment with wheels on, car on ground. Tomorrow will try and follow DIY.

X2 to doing your own toe-in as described in the link above. With just normal care your toe-in will turn out just as accurately as any alignment shop could do.

Is the driver's side track bar mount still the stock factory mount? If you're not sure post a good sharp well lit (use the flash) photo here and we'll tell you. If a dropped bracket was attached to it you'll need to remove it,

Took a clear photo of mount, it looks stock. Took a few extra photos just in case. I’m not sure what else could is making Jeep steer all over the place, mainly on left. Alignment is pretty close but not perfect, maybe I am very off? I will do the full DIY alignment mentioned above and see if I can get it even closer.

With the ZJ converison steering, new tires, pitman arm, almost drives the same as before in terms of steering. Comfort it’s better and noise is down.

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By the amount of rust I see, I wouldn't rule out a brake caliper going bad.
Mine drove home fine when I bought it, and in two weeks, driver caliper froze up. Same on my kid's, but maybe a month. Same side. His best friend got a Sahara about two months ago...same thing, driver side.
EDIT: there is a thread here (google it) in resources on what spring height shows how much lift you have. I believe stock front is 12" and rear is 8"? Not sure tho.
 
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By the amount of rust I see, I wouldn't rule out a brake caliper going bad.
Mine drove home fine when I bought it, and in two weeks, driver caliper froze up. Same on my kid's, but maybe a month. Same side. His best friend got a Sahara about two months ago...same thing, driver side.

PO had all new front brakes put on, rotors, pads, caliper. I’m banging on the track bar fixing the issue and doing a good alignment fixing the issue. I’ll post tomorrow to see if anything improves.
 
Hard to diagnose on a msg board, but if it's pulling to one side, sounds like a caliper.
It could be your steering box if it's wandering, maybe even your steering shaft, there are U-joints in it that fail.
I'm not a pro and by no means as good at this as others here, just spitballing from past experience.
Jack up the front end and figure out where the play is.
 
Hard to diagnose on a msg board, but if it's pulling to one side, sounds like a caliper.
It could be your steering box if it's wandering, maybe even your steering shaft, there are U-joints in it that fail.
I'm not a pro and by no means as good at this as others here, just spitballing from past experience.
Jack up the front end and figure out where the play is.

Hmm I will look, no idea is a bad idea. I wasn't trying to question you, just curious as I am new to this world, I am use to BMWs... a far different playing field. But I will take a look tomorrow when doing the alignment, PO didn't really take good care of the car as well at they should have, besides the 4.0.

I too was thinking steering box, my funds for the car are starting to dry out lol... can't keep dishing out money without the misses starting to take notice... i'm hoping the alignment down to the 1/16-1/8 fixes my issue. Also needs new shocks, but that wouldn't fix the issue.
 
Update: did the alignment the proper way, front end jacked up, jack stands supporting vehicle on the axle, used a long piece of 2x4 I had cut into 2 pieces, and had someone hold measuring tape. Got front and rear very close.

Jeep drives substantially better then when I first bought it. I can drive on the highway doing 65-70 with only one hand. Steering wheel it’s self isn’t straight though when wheels are straight. It’s at the 2 o clock position. I had the misses sit inside the car and I adjusted the drag link to pitman arm tie rod sleeves and she said it was straight and confirmed myself. Then when driving it still went to 2 o clock position... any suggestions?

Thanks for all your guys help so far
 
Update: did the alignment the proper way, front end jacked up, jack stands supporting vehicle on the axle, used a long piece of 2x4 I had cut into 2 pieces, and had someone hold measuring tape. Got front and rear very close.
Great, though the front of the tires need to be 1/16" to 1/8" closer together than they are in the rear, that is how you get the correct amount of toe-in. Hopefully those 2x4's were straighter than most I see.
 
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You said you did the ZJ tie rod? Something doesn't look right. Why is your adjusting sleeve on the right side at the drag link connection? The adjusting sleeve should be on the driver side.
Also, That re-drilled track bar hole on the axle side is not ideal. The PO did that to center the axle after the lift instead of getting a adjustable track bar. Something to consider for a future upgrade.
 
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You said you did the ZJ tie rod? Something doesn't look right. Why is your adjusting sleeve on the right side at the drag link connection? The adjusting sleeve should be on the driver side.
Also, That re-drilled track bar hole on the axle side is not ideal. The PO did that to center the axle after the lift instead of getting a adjustable track bar. Something to consider for a future upgrade.

Oh boy, is it on incorrectly? The sleeve for the tie rod bar is on the passenger side, was that not correct? Meaning the bar is on opposite? I followed a photo I found on google.

Holy shit, you are so right lol... I just googled it and the other photos have it on drive side. Jesus Christ, how did I miss that. Going to swap that.

Could this have caused any damage? I’ve driven it for A few days like that
 
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