Mother is the invention of necessity or something like that

mrblaine

mrblaine

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Fair warning Chris, you move this and I'll delete it.
Or this was fucked up from a rear impact. We pulled it back straightish as seen in the other thread but it wasn't going to look good left as is so I needed to cover it with something and that something is so cool, I should have done it years ago.
This is what we started with. I made a cover from 1/2" thick by 3 1/2" tall 6061 T6 to hide the ugly.
DSC_5284.JPG

Cover with overlap ends that pick up the lower corner armor bolt hole and we cut in a set of BD back up lights.
DSC_5299.JPG

Took a router with a carbide mortising bit and cut a 3/16 deep x 1 3/8" wide rabbet on the back side to overlap the corner armor
DSC_5301.JPG
DSC_5302.JPG

Beveled the ends on the chop saw and hit them with a 120g DA sander. (for looks since it gets powder coated)
DSC_5303.JPG
 
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mrblaine said:
Fair warning Chris, you move this and I'll delete it.
Or this this was fucked up from a rear impact. We pulled it back straightish as seen in the other thread but it wasn't going to look good left as is so I needed to cover it with something and that something is so cool, I should have done it years ago.
This is what we started with. I made a cover from 1/2" thick by 3 1/2" tall 6061 T6 to hide the ugly.
View attachment 151345
Cover with overlap ends that pick up the lower corner armor bolt hole and we cut in a set of BD back up lights.
View attachment 151346
Took a router with a carbide mortising bit and cut a 3/16 deep x 1 3/8" wide rabbet on the back side to overlap the corner armor View attachment 151347View attachment 151348
Beveled the ends on the chop saw and hit them with a 120g DA sander. (for looks since it gets powder coated)View attachment 151350
Click to expand...
The devil is in the detail, nice work.
 
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mrblaine said:
I've never liked the trim panel, valance cover, or tramp stamp that goes there because the tub tolerances are terrible and there are always gaps at the ends. I took this opportunity to fix that and I really like it.
Click to expand...
The thicker plate rabbeted over the corners looks beefy, l like it.
 
Looks badass and the lights recessed in the panel are just what it needs. Very tempting to do.

Sorta unrelated question... what's the reason you use phillips head instead of hex for your countersunk screws?
 
jesseshoots said:
Looks badass and the lights recessed in the panel are just what it needs. Very tempting to do.

Sorta unrelated question... what's the reason you use phillips head instead of hex for your countersunk screws?
Click to expand...
I understand fasteners better than most. A hex flat head has a very small driver size compared to the thread size. That means that stripping the hex or breaking the driver are much easier to do unless you can find hardened stainless, or alloy zinc plated. That slows down the stripped hex, but increases the chances of a broken driver. All of that is due to the increased surface contact area between the countersink and underside of head.
A #4 Phillips in an impact driver is outstanding and will break the fastener before the head strips out. It is virtually impossible to break a hex flat head at the shank.
 
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mrblaine said:
I understand fasteners better than most. A hex flat head has a very small driver size compared to the thread size. That means that stripping the hex or breaking the driver are much easier to do unless you can find hardened stainless, or alloy zinc plated. That slows down the stripped hex, but increases the chances of a broken driver. All of that is due to the increased surface contact area between the countersink and underside of head.
A #4 Phillips in an impact driver is outstanding and will break the fastener before the head strips out. It is virtually impossible to break a hex flat head at the shank.
Click to expand...

thanks for the insight! I figured it was due to the likelyhood of stripping it out, but didn’t know if there was more to it.

I have a love/hate relationship with finding the right Phillips head driver. Most of that comes from years of working on Miatas which use JIS spec screws and the profile is easily rounded out by a #2.
 
mrblaine said:
I understand fasteners better than most. A hex flat head has a very small driver size compared to the thread size. That means that stripping the hex or breaking the driver are much easier to do unless you can find hardened stainless, or alloy zinc plated. That slows down the stripped hex, but increases the chances of a broken driver. All of that is due to the increased surface contact area between the countersink and underside of head.
A #4 Phillips in an impact driver is outstanding and will break the fastener before the head strips out. It is virtually impossible to break a hex flat head at the shank.
Click to expand...

It would be really nice if more grade 8 socket head fasteners came zinc plated rather than the black oxide that rusts all to hell. Most stainless fasteners seem to be made from bubblegum and all the black fasteners rust in no time at all even in CA.
 
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