That’s beautiful, Mike. Brings back a lot of good memories for me.
My 1978 GMC motorhome
- Thread starter Mike_H
- Start date
That’s beautiful, Mike. Brings back a lot of good memories for me.
OP
Working on the punch list before our next trip. Our toilet started leaking on the last trip. While I was investigating the leak (valve) I found the toilet, which was a replacement, was not mounted to the floor. Or, more specifically, the flange was not mounted to the floor. There was about a half inch gap.
Out it comes…
The floor was rotten underneath, so that came out too
Got a new fitting and flange on order and the floor is repaired. I’ll hit it with some red guard tomorrow.
Out it comes…
The floor was rotten underneath, so that came out too
Got a new fitting and flange on order and the floor is repaired. I’ll hit it with some red guard tomorrow.
OP
Got the toilet back to functional tonight. It was like a greek tragedy. I ended up having to buy three different flanges to get everything to work...then my new water valve didn't fit. I took that apart to figure out why and a spring went "boing!" and I had to order a new spring cartridge! its all back together and working again...new linoleum and all. Wife couldn't help herself either...that destroyed trim in the lower right corner of the pic? Yeah...that's all her. So...I'll be refacing the vanity this winter too...
Then, while I was trying to get ready for our trip (leaving tomorrow!), my 12V power went out. I've had this happen before so I knew where to look. I thought I had fixed the problem, replacing the corroded fuse holder that was holding the fuse that kept popping. Imagine my surprise when found the new fuse holder to be a melted mess! I install another new one. As soon as I connected it, I felt the wire starting to heat up. That isn't right...there is WAY too much current going through that little 12 AWG wire.
Now, I have a new problem...got the meter out and started tracing circuits. I found that my main fuse block was getting 12 V just fine, through a 6 AWG wire and 50 Amp fuse. That part is good. The not good part is that on the other side of the fuse, (the buss side), not a single circuit had power...until I hooked up that little dinky 20 amp, 12 AWG fuse holder. So, my distribution block was not distributing. I took that all apart and found a melty post and loose rivet. This was the culprit behind the lack of power from the main feed line.
To get by for the weekend, I drilled the old rivet out, cleaned up the mating surfaces and installed a new rivet. That got me back up and running on the main wires. I do need to replace the distribution block though. Its still a bit wonky. One side of the coach lights weren't working after resinstalling everything...then I bumped the block and they started working again.
I have a whole bunch of stuff from Blue Sea Systems on its way to my house next week. The whole 12 Distribution panel is being replaced. I'll also upgrade to ATC fuses from the old glass tube style.
Camping is a whole bunch of work...I am going to need a vacation after my vacation!
Then, while I was trying to get ready for our trip (leaving tomorrow!), my 12V power went out. I've had this happen before so I knew where to look. I thought I had fixed the problem, replacing the corroded fuse holder that was holding the fuse that kept popping. Imagine my surprise when found the new fuse holder to be a melted mess! I install another new one. As soon as I connected it, I felt the wire starting to heat up. That isn't right...there is WAY too much current going through that little 12 AWG wire.
Now, I have a new problem...got the meter out and started tracing circuits. I found that my main fuse block was getting 12 V just fine, through a 6 AWG wire and 50 Amp fuse. That part is good. The not good part is that on the other side of the fuse, (the buss side), not a single circuit had power...until I hooked up that little dinky 20 amp, 12 AWG fuse holder. So, my distribution block was not distributing. I took that all apart and found a melty post and loose rivet. This was the culprit behind the lack of power from the main feed line.
To get by for the weekend, I drilled the old rivet out, cleaned up the mating surfaces and installed a new rivet. That got me back up and running on the main wires. I do need to replace the distribution block though. Its still a bit wonky. One side of the coach lights weren't working after resinstalling everything...then I bumped the block and they started working again.
I have a whole bunch of stuff from Blue Sea Systems on its way to my house next week. The whole 12 Distribution panel is being replaced. I'll also upgrade to ATC fuses from the old glass tube style.
Camping is a whole bunch of work...I am going to need a vacation after my vacation!
OP
Had a wonderful weekend at Hartwick Pines state park. Met two other couples along with my folks and had a great time. We went canoeing down the AuSable river Friday and checked out the old growth forest on Saturday. Games and food (and a couple drinks) were plentiful.
Glamping, 1978 style
And, since this is a TJ forum...I figured I'd post a pic of my friend's rig. They tow a little teardrop with the LJ. Its a pretty sweet set-up.
I'm getting closer and closer to feeling comfortable enough with the handling of my Rig...I have a couple more things to sort out and then it will be time to find a tow bar and brake set-up for my Rubicon.
Speaking of sorting things out, I coincidentally ran into another GMC guy this weekend. He is one of the parts suppliers that help keep these coaches on the road. He rebuilds steering boxes. I talked with him quite a bit and will probably make my way across the state to have him help me tune the quadrajet and put a rebuilt box in the coach. He retired from GM as an engineering technician, building prototypes and whatnot. Now he has a car restoration business.
Didn't get a great shot of his coach, but it was pretty nice. New paint and he's gone through the interior. Also running a Caddy 472!
Glamping, 1978 style
And, since this is a TJ forum...I figured I'd post a pic of my friend's rig. They tow a little teardrop with the LJ. Its a pretty sweet set-up.
I'm getting closer and closer to feeling comfortable enough with the handling of my Rig...I have a couple more things to sort out and then it will be time to find a tow bar and brake set-up for my Rubicon.
Speaking of sorting things out, I coincidentally ran into another GMC guy this weekend. He is one of the parts suppliers that help keep these coaches on the road. He rebuilds steering boxes. I talked with him quite a bit and will probably make my way across the state to have him help me tune the quadrajet and put a rebuilt box in the coach. He retired from GM as an engineering technician, building prototypes and whatnot. Now he has a car restoration business.
Didn't get a great shot of his coach, but it was pretty nice. New paint and he's gone through the interior. Also running a Caddy 472!
I've been happy with the RVi brake so far, but have only used it a handfull of times. My only complaint with it is the tablet only holds a charge for about an hour, so plugging it in on longer trips is necessary. It isn't the cheapest option out there, but I like it better than the used Brake Buddy I had.
OP
Another edition of Fix it better than it was...I replaced my DC electrical distribution "panel" tonight. Replaced the old, loose, and corroded connections with a bunch of new Blue Sea stuff. I'm a big fan of marine style electrical in an RV.
Here is my old set-up. Glass fuses!
And the new stuff. I used the same base plate, but removed the hinged cover because all my new stuff came with their own covers. All my wires not have terminals to prevent stray wires, they are all crimped properly and heatshrinked. I used an ANL Fuse holder with a 50A fuse to protect the system. The coach also has a 50A fuse at the start of the main supply run. Then the protected wire connects to the fuse block, which distributes the power to the individual circuits through standard ATC fuses (not the dumb little glass tubes anymore).
When I'm plugged into Shore power, the charger/converter supplies power to the distribution block and charges the batteries. It has internal protection (plus I am installing a surge protector on my shore power connection) to prevent wiping out the coach 12v system, so its safe to wire direct vs going through the 50A fuse.
I'm about 90% done. I see there is one ground that needs to be covered up (missed the heatshrink). My charger/converter wires also need some bushings. The old way it was connected was just bare wire pushed into the terminals on the charger. The "attachment" was just a dogpoint set screw...well, that doesn't work all that well. I gave em a little tug and they pulled right out. I think I have some bushings I can crimp on so the screw has something to bite against.
The inverter was also installed haphazardly. There are like three splices where its pulling its 12v power...and it was connected on the unprotected side of the fuse. I'll run some new primary wire, all one piece, to provide power to it. Then I gotta figure out how its providing 120V AC to the coach. From what it looks like, its going to the outlet the charger/inverter is plugged into and bypassing any type of circuit breaker protection! I think its only 1500 watts too, so it won't run much. I may just pull it out and install a decent one.
Finally, I need to make some labels. The fuse block came with a sheet of them. I'd like to figure out how to run it through my laser printer for nice, neat labels.
Here is my old set-up. Glass fuses!
And the new stuff. I used the same base plate, but removed the hinged cover because all my new stuff came with their own covers. All my wires not have terminals to prevent stray wires, they are all crimped properly and heatshrinked. I used an ANL Fuse holder with a 50A fuse to protect the system. The coach also has a 50A fuse at the start of the main supply run. Then the protected wire connects to the fuse block, which distributes the power to the individual circuits through standard ATC fuses (not the dumb little glass tubes anymore).
When I'm plugged into Shore power, the charger/converter supplies power to the distribution block and charges the batteries. It has internal protection (plus I am installing a surge protector on my shore power connection) to prevent wiping out the coach 12v system, so its safe to wire direct vs going through the 50A fuse.
I'm about 90% done. I see there is one ground that needs to be covered up (missed the heatshrink). My charger/converter wires also need some bushings. The old way it was connected was just bare wire pushed into the terminals on the charger. The "attachment" was just a dogpoint set screw...well, that doesn't work all that well. I gave em a little tug and they pulled right out. I think I have some bushings I can crimp on so the screw has something to bite against.
The inverter was also installed haphazardly. There are like three splices where its pulling its 12v power...and it was connected on the unprotected side of the fuse. I'll run some new primary wire, all one piece, to provide power to it. Then I gotta figure out how its providing 120V AC to the coach. From what it looks like, its going to the outlet the charger/inverter is plugged into and bypassing any type of circuit breaker protection! I think its only 1500 watts too, so it won't run much. I may just pull it out and install a decent one.
Finally, I need to make some labels. The fuse block came with a sheet of them. I'd like to figure out how to run it through my laser printer for nice, neat labels.
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OP
Had a few free minutes tonight so I tried something I’ve been wanting to do since we got the coach. It’s been stored, inside, it’s whole life but the paint was still pretty dull and lifeless. I had some pads and compounding stuff left over from my boat so I wanted to see if it would be possible to restore this paint or if it was too far gone.
I’m happy to report that it will be worth my time and worth buying a couple new bonnets. I can’t believe how easily the shine came back. I’ve heard, but not verified, that these were painted with DuPont Imron paint when new. It surprised me, because that is VERY high quality paint and I didn’t think the general would spend that much on a paint job. After my quick buffing job, I’m now more convinced that it may actually be Imron.
Before
After!
Same spot, same amount of light. Taken in the storage barn. It’s a dramatic difference. I will do more after my new pads show up and when I do, I’ll back it out into the sunlight.
I’m happy to report that it will be worth my time and worth buying a couple new bonnets. I can’t believe how easily the shine came back. I’ve heard, but not verified, that these were painted with DuPont Imron paint when new. It surprised me, because that is VERY high quality paint and I didn’t think the general would spend that much on a paint job. After my quick buffing job, I’m now more convinced that it may actually be Imron.
Before
After!
Same spot, same amount of light. Taken in the storage barn. It’s a dramatic difference. I will do more after my new pads show up and when I do, I’ll back it out into the sunlight.
Imron is the shitzizlle! Only thing better than that in the day was Durathane. You should be able to clean that up no probelmo.
OP
I hope so...I have about 100 dollars in pads and bonnets on the way! WAY cheaper than a 10,000 dollar paint job though
Take your time. That paint is super hard, so buffing it will challenging.
Got any advice on trying to get decals to look better? My mh has been parked outside all its life so it is all faded. And a lot of the decals are cracking.
OP
If they’re cracked, then it’s time to find someone to remove and replace them
OP
I
I can tell it’s hard, just in the little bit I worked on it yesterday. The nice thing is that there isn’t a lot of orange peel, it’s just oxidized, so it will go a bit more quickly. I
I can tell it’s hard, just in the little bit I worked on it yesterday. The nice thing is that there isn’t a lot of orange peel, it’s just oxidized, so it will go a bit more quickly. I
That is what I was afraid of. I was told by one person who owns a Host mh that he'd been quoted $7K to do a new wrap in his rig.
Yep, once they start cracking they are done for. Mine has done the same, but I've got other things to deal with on it, like a cracked exhaust manifold.
Mike makes us all look bad with the amount of work he's done to his. I think me fixing the decals will be a long time off as there are a lot of other things I'd rather spend that money on.
Cracked exhaust manifolds are NO FUN.
Especially when you have to do it twice! I ordered the wrong one after having all but 2 nuts loose and finding out it was a federal emissions 460 with the egr pipe hidden above the flange pipe. Doh!
I can't tell you the number of 460 manifolds I've replaced. And broken manifold bolts to top it off.
Did you get the newer version with the bellows?