My experience with stopping an oil leak

Squatch

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Just wanted to share something that I found rather interesting, as it might have the potential to buy you some time if your TJ has an oil leak that you just can't get to for a bit. Here's what I got...

I have an '03 Lincoln Town Car with the 4.6 V8 in it. Been driving it for about 45,000 miles, and never experienced any oil loss through burning, or leakage. I change my own oil, btw. Anyways, I read on a couple of Ford forums that the 4.6 does well with full synthetic oil, using the recommended 5w20 oil. Of course, they recommend using Motorcraft (Ford) oil. I was due for an oil change, so I decided to give it a try. Big mistake.

Two days after I switched to full synthetic, my car started smelling like an oil refinery. It absolutely wreaked of hot, burning oil. I immediately checked to see if I had done something stupid, like not tighten the oil filter, or some such gross error. Nothing. All good. Still, it was coming from somewhere, as the entire passenger side of the floor pan, exhaust, starter, bell housing, and cross members were literally dripping with oil. I hit the internet, looking for problems common to these engines, and found that there was a TSB regarding the head gaskets weeping around the high pressure oil passage (rear for the passenger side, front for the driver side). Seemed likely that this was what I was up against.

The timing of the leaking seemed to coincide with the switch to full synthetic, so I decided to try a triple play. I switched back to conventional oil, I went from 5w20 to 5w30, and I added some snake oil Lucas Oil Stop Leak to the oil (one quart replacing a quart of oil). The Lucas product claims to have chemicals that cause the seals and gaskets to become more pliable and swell back to their original size after about 100 miles of driving (and it also brings rain to end droughts, as well...). As you can tell, I wasn't real convinced, but this approach was far cheaper and less time consuming than replacing head gaskets on a 137,000 motor.

I did the oil change, as described above. I then cleaned the underside with Purple Power and hot water, and had the belly of the car looking showroom fresh. I drove the car about 40 miles, and looked underneath. It was raining oil, going as far back as the rear seat floor pan, and there was that wretched oil burning smell, all over again. I checked the oil level, and continued to drive it to and from work. Then on Sunday, after almost 300 miles of driving, I decided to clean the underside of the car once again. Crawling underneath, I found no fresh oil. Only traces of oil remained, and it was "dry", so to speak. I hosed everything down again with Purple Power and hot water, and then drove it around town to dry everything off.

Today, I drove it into work (30 miles) and once parked, I looked underneath. It is absolutely bone dry. There was no oil burning smell, and not one single drop of oil anywhere. I was amazed by this, and am looking forward to seeing if this holds up. However, I may not know what it was that did the trick, as I changed three different things. Dinosaur oil for the win? Weight change? Lucas product actually work? Hell if I know! All I know is that I went from being ready to give the car away to being hopeful that I can continue to drive this car. If it lasts until summer without an issue, I'm calling it good. If it starts to leak again, it's getting donated.

So what do you think? Could full synthetic have been the issue, or was the timing of the start of the leak purely coincidental? Could the Lucas product actually do what it says it does? Any predictions on whether or not the leak will return? Imagine if you could buy yourself some time using this Lucas stuff, and not have to change that leaking RMS in your TJ until you actually have the time to deal with it. Just a thought! ;) Anyways, thanks for letting me ramble. I'll end this by saying that I'm guardedly optimistic, and will report back on what happens down the road.
Thanks,
Squatch
 
I've noticed this with my 2003 TJ also. Ran semi-synthetic in it cause it was on sale, and almost immediately had the rear main drip overnight. The leak continued until I changed the oil back to conventional oil, and the leak has stopped to the point where it is about 90% less than it was with the semi-synthetic. I've never tried the Lucas Oil stop leak before, but may give it a try. It is probably a combination of the two for your leak stopping, but who knows for sure? For what it's worth my TJ has about 108,000 so I know the rear main replacement will happen someday, but I'd prefer that to be as far out as possible.
 
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I've noticed this with my 2003 TJ also. Ran semi-synthetic in it cause it was on sale, and almost immediately had the rear main drip overnight. The leak continued until I changed the oil back to conventional oil, and the leak has stopped to the point where it is about 90% less than it was with the semi-synthetic. I've never tried the Lucas Oil stop leak before, but may give it a try. It is probably a combination of the two for your leak stopping, but who knows for sure? For what it's worth my TJ has about 108,000 so I know the rear main replacement will happen someday, but I'd prefer that to be as far out as possible.
It might be worth giving the Lucas stuff a shot. Wish I knew what it was that actually did the trick, but it might well be a combination of things, as you said. Either way, I'll take it!
 
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I think it has something to do with synthetic.

I've heard/read switching to synthetic after using conventional oil causes leaks, because at the microscopic level, the synthetic leaks through the cracks. Basically, the conventional oil clogs up the cracks.

I also heard something similar on auto transmissions... that you shouldnt fully flush a tranny.. becuase you wash out the debris and junk at a miscoscopic level, thus losing a seal.

🤔
 
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I think it has something to do with synthetic.

I've heard/read switching to synthetic after using conventional oil causes leaks, because at the microscopic level, the synthetic leaks through the cracks. Basically, the conventional oil clogs up the cracks.

I also heard something similar on auto transmissions... that you shouldnt fully flush a tranny.. becuase you wash out the debris and junk at a miscoscopic level, thus losing a seal.

🤔
I've heard the same all through the years, but then started reading things about how all that was a myth. That's what prompted me to try the synthetic without worrying about it. Lesson learned!

As for the automatic transmissions, I have always maintained that a full drain, or a flush using the transmission's own pump system, is absolutely fine. It's when you start doing a power flush, or even worse, a reverse power flush, that bad things start to happen. I've never done a power flush, and never will.
 
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Interesting. I've always preferred to stick with the manufacturer's guidelines, I figured if some dude with a lab coat who went to college said the engine should get dino oil then that's what it should get I guess, and I stick with synthetic on my newer vehicles that call for it. I've never had occasion to try the Lucas oil stuff, though my buddy did and his golf score dropped almost immediately. Those old Towncars are awesome BTW, I love the panther platform.

I also heard something similar on auto transmissions... that you shouldnt fully flush a tranny.. becuase you wash out the debris and junk at a miscoscopic level, thus losing a seal.

I used to do them when I was fixing cars for a living, used the BG machine that hooked up to the trans through the cooling line. The basic recommendation was that it should be done in no more than 30 or 45k intervals. I only had one problem, and that was when a guy brought in an old Camry with something like 250k on the clock & trans fluid that looked like used motor oil. I told him that I wasn't going to flush it because the only thing keeping the clutch plates together at this point was all the junk in his tranny. He wouldn't take no for an answer though, started arguing and saying that he was a paying customer, etc.. The service manager ended up making him read the back of the service order, highlighted the part that says the shop isn't liable for damage, made the guy initial next to it, and then said if he really wants his transmission flushed he can have it done but it wasn't recommended.

So I did it, flushed about 15 quarts through and watched the fluid in the sight glass go from jet black to bright red. I put the car on the ground, put it in reverse, and it didn't move. We had to push it out of the stall and it only moved in D by revving it up to about 2500rpm. We pushed it out front and the guy called a tow truck.
 
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I've heard those high mileage oils contain a chemical to help with seals. The Lucas stop leak is probably just a similar thing concentrated. Glad you got it stopped, that is easier than changing just about any seal I can think of.
 
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If you ask me I say synthetic screwed it up and Lucas fixed it. Almost end of discussion except my only experience with anything called Lucas was transmission problems which fixed one transmission so well, until the dealer finally covered it under warranty, that I used it in another and it was still doing fine 3 years later when I traded in that car for my TJ.
 
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Maybe Lucas uses the old add some brake fluid to it so it will swell the seals up method.
I once used the new better engine oil from John Deere to service a Kubota tractor, after it ran for about a minute it developed bad blow by, I drained the Deere oil and used Kubota branded oil and the blow by disappeared.
 
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I’m gunna try the Lucas on my sons bronco.. it leaks like a colander
 
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Full synth will definitely show you where your leaks are. Switching back doesn't stop them, it just slows them down considerably.

For transmissions if it hasn't been maintained with proper fluid changes and starts having issues, no reason to throw money at it. New fluid won't help, it's gonna die.
 
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Full synth will definitely show you where your leaks are. Switching back doesn't stop them, it just slows them down considerably.

For transmissions if it hasn't been maintained with proper fluid changes and starts having issues, no reason to throw money at it. New fluid won't help, it's gonna die.
Well, I'd have to agree with statement about slowing down the leaks (but not eliminate them). By the second day, I found oil droplets on the catalytic convertor. I'm really disappointed, and done with trying to fix it. Gonna get rid of the car.

I haven't maintained the 727 Torqueflite in my Dodge truck. The filter and fluid has been changed twice in 420,000 miles. It's finally starting to act up. I need to let it idle for a minute or two before dropping it in gear. If I don't, it doesn't engage right away, and holds the 1st to 2nd gear shift a little longer than it should. Once warmed up, no issues at all. Wish all my vehicles were so problematic! ;)
 
I haven't maintained the 727 Torqueflite in my Dodge truck. The filter and fluid has been changed twice in 420,000 miles. It's finally starting to act up. I need to let it idle for a minute or two before dropping it in gear. If I don't, it doesn't engage right away, and holds the 1st to 2nd gear shift a little longer than it should. Once warmed up, no issues at all. Wish all my vehicles were so problematic! ;)

Squatch,

Did you get the "Keith Richards" of Torqueflites :LOL:
 
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