OP
Nashville TJ's Build - Continued
- Thread starter NashvilleTJ
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The coolest pass we did was Ophir. I don't have a lot of pics because I had the GoPro going.
Here is the GC in the snow - which is just about gone here in early June. I've seen pictures of this pass where the snow is 15 or 20 feet and higher. Still cool though.
Here is some video of the pass. It's almost 10 minutes, but goes from beginning to end, and gives a little hint as to what it is like to go through it.
Here is the GC in the snow - which is just about gone here in early June. I've seen pictures of this pass where the snow is 15 or 20 feet and higher. Still cool though.
Here is some video of the pass. It's almost 10 minutes, but goes from beginning to end, and gives a little hint as to what it is like to go through it.
OP
We stayed in a bunch of cool places along the way. Here is our dinner view from our place in Telluride.
And since my wife is a bit afraid of heights, this is as close as I came to doing Black Bear Pass. This is the view from downtown Telluride.
And since my wife is a bit afraid of heights, this is as close as I came to doing Black Bear Pass. This is the view from downtown Telluride.
OP
Just driving through central Colorado, and especially the San Juan Mountains, is breathtaking. Even the paved roads can be thrilling.
This is a video of coming into Ouray from the south on Highway 550. They call this part The Million Dollar Highway - and you can see why. As always, it's hard to get good perspective from the video, but the drop-offs are that close to the road, and they are quite a ways down. The vid is about 10 minutes, but it's worth the watch if you have never taken this drive.
We had a great trip. In addition to the trails, we also did a bunch of hiking and horseback riding - and a lot of just relaxing in the great weather. Can't wait to go back.
This is a video of coming into Ouray from the south on Highway 550. They call this part The Million Dollar Highway - and you can see why. As always, it's hard to get good perspective from the video, but the drop-offs are that close to the road, and they are quite a ways down. The vid is about 10 minutes, but it's worth the watch if you have never taken this drive.
We had a great trip. In addition to the trails, we also did a bunch of hiking and horseback riding - and a lot of just relaxing in the great weather. Can't wait to go back.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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Telluride looks beautiful. Colorado has everything i love, wheeling, skiing and elk but i have never been.
BJ deletes - in my opinion - are wastes of money... If you're running an axle where OEM-supplier balljoints are failing at such an accelerated rate that you are looking for some fancy aftermarket solution, you're running too small an axle (or too large a tire).
Regarding the balljoint concerns on the SD axles - they're huge and been shown to be reliable for even JKU sized rigs on 42" stickies without much issue. Even the earlier, non-SD Ford Dana 60's (which use the same balljoints as the 99-04 SD D50 and D60s) are notoriously beefy and the knuckles have much less issue than the earlier Ford KP knuckles.
Most people just cut them off. Unless there is something new on the market, all the popular trusses for the 05+ SD axles require cutting back of the short-side casting, exposing more tube. Most guys that ran the 99-04 Dana 60's (really 02-04 D60s) also trimmed the short-side casting back to exposre more tube.
IMO, the worst thing about 05+ SD axles is the WMS width (72") - it can be quite wide for a TJ/YJ trying to stay on somewhat narrow trails. The 99-04 axles are narrower (69.5") and don't require as much prep work, but don't have the OEM 35-spline outers (though easily converted) and have smaller axle C's, which limit u-joint size. Not a problem for most folk, but those looking for +40" stickies with a V8 may lean toward the 05+ SD axle.
With Eric and Erik's failure - I believe it was the weld that failed in both instances. Eric had his done by a well-known local shop and Erik is a fabricator with years of experience welding onto cast and used all the proper heat and cool-down methods. His experience matches what I've seen on other similar types of failures. Certainly not my area of expertise so I really can't add too much info that except for when the time times, I'm doing the non-weld 13-bolt shave
Wonderful views! We have a plant in Cortez, CO (close to Durango) and it's one of my favorite places to go check up on. I take every opportunity I can to drive up there
We are one of the few permittees that can drive a vehicle in the Canyon of the Ancients (you can see the pipeline on the left of the image below)And I gotta say, the Mrs. Grand Cherokee Limited is a nice ass ride... Wish she sprung for the Limited-X version (with the Hemi) but it is still peppy enough not to make me hate it, with more than enough comfort for long road trips.
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Thanks for that info, PC. Since I'm trying to match my rear 68" WMS, I may be looking at the 99-04 if I build it myself. I would definitely go with the 35 outers, or maybe stick with the RCV's I currently run.BJ deletes - in my opinion - are wastes of money... If you're running an axle where OEM-supplier balljoints are failing at such an accelerated rate that you are looking for some fancy aftermarket solution, you're running too small an axle (or too large a tire).
Regarding the balljoint concerns on the SD axles - they're huge and been shown to be reliable for even JKU sized rigs on 42" stickies without much issue. Even the earlier, non-SD Ford Dana 60's (which use the same balljoints as the 99-04 SD D50 and D60s) are notoriously beefy and the knuckles have much less issue than the earlier Ford KP knuckles.
Most people just cut them off. Unless there is something new on the market, all the popular trusses for the 05+ SD axles require cutting back of the short-side casting, exposing more tube. Most guys that ran the 99-04 Dana 60's (really 02-04 D60s) also trimmed the short-side casting back to exposre more tube.
IMO, the worst thing about 05+ SD axles is the WMS width (72") - it can be quite wide for a TJ/YJ trying to stay on somewhat narrow trails. The 99-04 axles are narrower (69.5") and don't require as much prep work, but don't have the OEM 35-spline outers (though easily converted) and have smaller axle C's, which limit u-joint size. Not a problem for most folk, but those looking for +40" stickies with a V8 may lean toward the 05+ SD axle.
With Eric and Erik's failure - I believe it was the weld that failed in both instances. Eric had his done by a well-known local shop and Erik is a fabricator with years of experience welding onto cast and used all the proper heat and cool-down methods. His experience matches what I've seen on other similar types of failures. Certainly not my area of expertise so I really can't add too much info that except for when the time times, I'm doing the non-weld 13-bolt shave
Wonderful views! We have a plant in Cortez, CO (close to Durango) and it's one of my favorite places to go check up on. I take every opportunity I can to drive up there
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And I gotta say, the Mrs. Grand Cherokee Limited is a nice ass ride... Wish she sprung for the Limited-X version (with the Hemi) but it is still peppy enough not to make me hate it, with more than enough comfort for long road trips.
My best case may be to widen my current ProRoc by about 4.5" - I just don't have a way to do the required tube work myself (requires a giant press, as I understand it). Or, maybe look at getting a ProRock housing, tubes, and inner C's from Dynatrac and swapping everything over with new shafts.
(Or, maybe just buy a big f-ing press...
)By the way, I wheeled with Chris (92 Vegas YJ over on JF) at AOP a few weeks ago. He tells me you did the wiring for his Magnum conversion, and speaks very highly of the work you did for him.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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What width is your current prorock front axle? Id probably be interested in buying your housing. I'm trying to figure out the best path for me to get currie Dana 60 outers. The jk44 outers are proving to not be up to the long term work of 37s.Thanks for that info, PC. Since I'm trying to match my rear 68" WMS, I may be looking at the 99-04 if I build it myself. I would definitely go with the 35 outers, or maybe stick with the RCV's I currently run.
My best case may be to widen my current ProRoc by about 4.5" - I just don't have a way to do the required tube work myself (requires a giant press, as I understand it). Or, maybe look at getting a ProRock housing, tubes, and inner C's from Dynatrac and swapping everything over with new shafts.
(Or, maybe just buy a big f-ing press...
By the way, I wheeled with Chris (92 Vegas YJ over on JF) at AOP a few weeks ago. He tells me you did the wiring for his Magnum conversion, and speaks very highly of the work you did for him.
OP
Have you considered the Dana "Builder Kit"? Last I checked, you can get them as complete or stripped as you need: https://spicerparts.com/builder-axle
My bud Eric (yup, same one as above who damaged the shaved 14B) ordered one not too long ago for some project he was working on (I can't remember if it was his LJ or his wife's Jeep). He said that after all was said and done that it was still way cheaper than buying and modifying a junkyard axle (he's built a few "Super Kingpin 60s" with SD60's, then using the Reid C's and kingpin knuckles). I was considering getting one of these but found a Kingpin 60 for way cheap and went that route instead.
I saw on his FB page that he was getting it all dialed in... I have been busy with packing and my LJ stuff that I haven't check in with him in a while. Glad to hear it's running strong!
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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Not really - that was dynatrac's standard WMS for a ProRrock 60 into a TL/LJ a dozen years ago. The rear I just replaced was that WMS as well. That width was fine until I went to coilovers, at which point I had to add spacers.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
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OP
At the time I was running 3.5” backspace Spydertracks, so that helped. When I went to coilovers, the problem was the top of the rear tire contacting the top of the rear coilover at full articulation. That’s what drove the need for the 1.25” spacers. The front was never a problem. Ironically, to also run the spacers in the front to keep a consistent track width, I had to stretch the front to clear the rear of the fender at full stuff / full turn. That was quite a job.
this is part of the reason i'd just do full hydro. dump my crap gear loose the link make a push forward a lot easier. i'd have to make the same room in the back of the fender to go bigger than 36-37".
OP
Yup - that’s exactly what‘s driving me to full hydro. That, and I want my hardcore buddies to stop pointing and laughing…
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Well, after trying to keep up with my buddies Chris and John from JF at AOP a few weeks ago, I had to do some maintenance. First up, I noticed my passenger side rear hub seal was leaking just a bit, so I picked up a new seal from Napa and slapped it in yesterday.
With the 14 bolt, it's pretty easy. To whit:
Pull the brake caliper.
Pull the rotor, unbolt and remove the axle shaft:
Pull the retainer spring, key and bearing nut:
Pull the hub and replace the seal:
And slap it all back together:
It took me all of about 15 minutes. That same operation on my old semi float '60 or a '44 would take several hours.
Schweet!
With the 14 bolt, it's pretty easy. To whit:
Pull the brake caliper.
Pull the rotor, unbolt and remove the axle shaft:
Pull the retainer spring, key and bearing nut:
Pull the hub and replace the seal:
And slap it all back together:
It took me all of about 15 minutes. That same operation on my old semi float '60 or a '44 would take several hours.
Schweet!
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And then, while checking out the rest of the rig - I see this:
&*#@*&!!
This is the guard bar attached to the axle to which the hydro is mounted. I must have taken quite a hit (or a few - I told you, keeping up with John and Chris is no small feat!). It's tough to tell from the picture, but it deformed enough that the hydro heim was digging into the bar. It had already self clearanced a bit by digging a nice channel...
This is not going to be an easy fix.
To take the stress off of the cylinder, I pulled the bolts on the tube connector (you can see in the pic below how much it deflected). Then I threw a couple of bolts in to stabilize the joint a bit. A bit of a hack, but it will hold it in place until I can get in there and replace that part of the tube.
Always something. Perhaps this is my rig's way of saying it needs full hydro....
&*#@*&!!
This is the guard bar attached to the axle to which the hydro is mounted. I must have taken quite a hit (or a few - I told you, keeping up with John and Chris is no small feat!). It's tough to tell from the picture, but it deformed enough that the hydro heim was digging into the bar. It had already self clearanced a bit by digging a nice channel...
This is not going to be an easy fix.
To take the stress off of the cylinder, I pulled the bolts on the tube connector (you can see in the pic below how much it deflected). Then I threw a couple of bolts in to stabilize the joint a bit. A bit of a hack, but it will hold it in place until I can get in there and replace that part of the tube.
Always something. Perhaps this is my rig's way of saying it needs full hydro....