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Need an advice on my 2004 42RLE mini overhaul
- Thread starter TexasTJ2004
- Start date
Make sure to also buy a tub of "Assembly Goo" with the green label which is compatible with and dissolvable by ATF. It serves to hold things like the springs/valves in position while the valve body is inserted back up into the transmission.
It is really amazing. In a stop and go traffic, where I don’t even accelerate fast, the cooler kicks in in our every now and then.
It means that w/o a cooler, my transmission temperature would easily heat up to 200F+.
It was a crime to drive TJ with 42RLE w/o transmission cooler.
For almost 3 days that I am driving with a cooler, it didn’t miss the reverse even once.. I am starting to think whether all no problems were bad oil and overheat.
Transmission does not slip and does not throw any codes.
It means that w/o a cooler, my transmission temperature would easily heat up to 200F+.
It was a crime to drive TJ with 42RLE w/o transmission cooler.
For almost 3 days that I am driving with a cooler, it didn’t miss the reverse even once.. I am starting to think whether all no problems were bad oil and overheat.
Transmission does not slip and does not throw any codes.
Thanks for the advice. I am starting to think that if Derale cooler and new oil and filter solve my problems, I will pause on any further work inside the transmission. Meanwhile it seems like cooler, new oil and filter are holding up great.
I went through the links.
I already installed a new Mopar filter, LubeLocker gasket, and a pan with drain plug through which I installed the temperature probe. Did all this yesterday night, after 2 hours of fighting with spinning nurserts.
Thanks for the link for the Solenoid pack.
My question is - did you just replace the solenoid pack,. Or also the range sensor? Did you disassemble the rest of the valve body for cleaning?
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I added a Hayden in front of my rad & condenser & left the radiator trans cooler in place (so effectively running 2 coolers). Mine had been getting over 220F, hasn’t been over 160 since. It was on the heels of a rebuild so I didn’t have your problems, but yeah, can’t recommend the cooler enough.
counterpoint: XJ buddy says “let me get this straight, he only reason you’re worried about the temp is because you installed a gauge that tells you the temp?” XJ guys are a special breed.
All that needed replacing was the solenoid pack. I contemplated the Transgo shift kit, but decided it was not worth the effort so no, I did not take the valve body apart. My only problem before the work was the transmission would not upshift into OD...the solenoid pack cured this.
With Derale I am also running dual cooler. Oil goes to radiator in the front, where it is thermally coupled with the engine coolant. In my case it simply heats up the oil to the working temperature area of 180-200.
Then it goes to Derale, where it brings it down to 180F.
The reason why I didn’t want Hayden is that my Jeep was running hot in the summer with AC, when idling. I came to conclusion that I want to remove the heat from the radiator area and dissipate it in the rear, so it improves the overall thermal performance. This way the engine coolant is actually being cooled down by the transmission oil, because they are thermal coupled in the main radiator.
Also, do you Mopar radiator? I am using Autozone garbage.
Yeah, I was celebrating too early. It seems like there are less shift issues, but the sometimes not going into reverse is still there, just happened to me today. Next time when it happens, I will just keep it in Reverse in park, and will jump out to check whether the reverse light is on or not. If the reverse light is on, this means that PCM thinks that I am in reverse, if not, then the PCM is not aware and that means that range shift sensor is not detecting the reverse, and not commanding the solenoid valve to activate reverse.
My experience is on the 32RH, so it might be different. My sigh was that IF the PCM controls the backup lights its just an unnecessary complication to something, which seems to be something of a guiding principle on the 42RLE.
On the 32RH, the neutral safety does go to the PCM, but only to control whether or not to allow it to start. Another wire goes to the backup lights, w/o the involvement of the PCM. If I have a few minutes, I'll look at the FSM for your jeep.
I just pulled up the FSM for the 05, and it looks like the backup lights don't go through the PCM. 8W-51-1 is where the relevant stuff starts, if you're interested.
Thanks for the pointers. Will read through it.
I am able to get a consistent reproducer for my no reverse problem.
Transmission hot (not too hot, the Derale still didn’t kick in), after driving an hour, drive 45MPH. On a red light stop. Move into reverse. Reverse will not pick up at all, will behave like it is is in neutral. Move back to drive, wait 5 sec, move back to Reverse and reverse kicks in as it should and works perfectly fine.
https://www.wranglerforum.com/threads/42rle-slipping-in-reverse-sometimes-possible-solution.1281537/
Everything else work relatively fine.
Found the relevant diagram in the https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/2004-tj-service-manual-pdf.14043/
Seems like the R(REV) clutch is controlled by manual valve, which is basically a shaft that is mechanically attached to the shift handle.
As a result, we are left with only 2 variables that impact the reverse:
The solenoids (which are all expected to be in open state according to diagram) and the pressure switches. LR switch is also involved - Both the solenoids and the LR switch will be replaced, as they are contained inside the solenoid pack.
The check balls - i will replace these as well.
Accumulators - I will replace the seals with what comes with Transgo kit. Need to buy this
It could be that the accumulator for LR is not sealed properly, as a result it does not build enough pressure to activate the LR clutch (it needs at least 165PSI up to 230+ PSI).
The seals for valve body (unrelated to accumulators) - will buy Mopar ones.
TRS - Range sensor - never had any issues with it, but will still replace it, just to be on a safe side.
Learned really a lot from these 3 videos:
Seems like the R(REV) clutch is controlled by manual valve, which is basically a shaft that is mechanically attached to the shift handle.
As a result, we are left with only 2 variables that impact the reverse:
The solenoids (which are all expected to be in open state according to diagram) and the pressure switches. LR switch is also involved - Both the solenoids and the LR switch will be replaced, as they are contained inside the solenoid pack.
The check balls - i will replace these as well.
Accumulators - I will replace the seals with what comes with Transgo kit. Need to buy this
It could be that the accumulator for LR is not sealed properly, as a result it does not build enough pressure to activate the LR clutch (it needs at least 165PSI up to 230+ PSI).
The seals for valve body (unrelated to accumulators) - will buy Mopar ones.
TRS - Range sensor - never had any issues with it, but will still replace it, just to be on a safe side.
Learned really a lot from these 3 videos:
So,
I have identified the following potential problems:
Valve body - #1 ball check or LR switch valve sticking - may also set code P0731(51) - this can be addressed by remanufactured valve body, or by simply opening my valve body and replacing or cleaning the LR switch valve. I think that buying an Ebay Valve Body, fully cleaned and reassembled and tested, will do the job. For example https://www.ebay.com/itm/1142909325...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
Failed or slipping LR clutch - may also set code P0731(51)
– LR seal leakage (Intermittent no drive or reverse) - if this is what is going on, I am screwed and need to buy a remanufactured transmission. I cannot address this, as this would require complete disassembly of the transmission. Basically a remanufacturing.
– Sticky LR accumulator seals (Intermittent no drive or reverse) - this can be addressed by me.
I bought Transgo shift kit and that comes with seals and new set of springs and seals. Dont know whether I will drill the hole, in the screen or not.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SOVRGU/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I bought the Sonnax kit https://www.ebay.com/itm/1138847368...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1 - will enable to repair the damaged LR accumulator.
The LR accumulator cover: Mopar 4431617AB https://www.moparpartsdepot.com/oem...sZXImeT0yMDA0JnQ9c3BvcnQmZT00LTBsLWw2LWdhcw==
The LR snap ring - Mopar 6501695 https://www.moparpartsdepot.com/oem-parts/mopar-snap-ring-6501695
What this mini overhaul will not address, is the possibility that LR clutches are worn badly or the possibility that LR seal is not working fine.
I have identified the following potential problems:
Valve body - #1 ball check or LR switch valve sticking - may also set code P0731(51) - this can be addressed by remanufactured valve body, or by simply opening my valve body and replacing or cleaning the LR switch valve. I think that buying an Ebay Valve Body, fully cleaned and reassembled and tested, will do the job. For example https://www.ebay.com/itm/1142909325...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
Failed or slipping LR clutch - may also set code P0731(51)
– LR seal leakage (Intermittent no drive or reverse) - if this is what is going on, I am screwed and need to buy a remanufactured transmission. I cannot address this, as this would require complete disassembly of the transmission. Basically a remanufacturing.
– Sticky LR accumulator seals (Intermittent no drive or reverse) - this can be addressed by me.
I bought Transgo shift kit and that comes with seals and new set of springs and seals. Dont know whether I will drill the hole, in the screen or not.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SOVRGU/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I bought the Sonnax kit https://www.ebay.com/itm/1138847368...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1 - will enable to repair the damaged LR accumulator.
The LR accumulator cover: Mopar 4431617AB https://www.moparpartsdepot.com/oem...sZXImeT0yMDA0JnQ9c3BvcnQmZT00LTBsLWw2LWdhcw==
The LR snap ring - Mopar 6501695 https://www.moparpartsdepot.com/oem-parts/mopar-snap-ring-6501695
What this mini overhaul will not address, is the possibility that LR clutches are worn badly or the possibility that LR seal is not working fine.
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So I have dropped the transmission pan and the valve body. Took a plenty of pics, will make a how to.
Unfortunately all pistons and their seals look completely fine. No any pieces of metal, like broken snap rings, the LR accumulator cover seems perfectly functional. Took the pics of what came out of it.
Unfortunately all pistons and their seals look completely fine. No any pieces of metal, like broken snap rings, the LR accumulator cover seems perfectly functional. Took the pics of what came out of it.