So, this all started because my e brake wasn't working at all. Started to adjust, but the adjuster was all rust, so installed new adjuster. Didn't help, just couldn't get it right. So figured it was time to dig into the brakes. Realized the adjusters were seized, so replaced all hardware, not shoes or cylinders. Here's what may be my first issue......hitting the brake pedal with the drums off, only one side of each cylinder expands. Does the system need to be under pressure (i.e., drums on) for each side of the cylinders to expand, or are mine seized? Two, I've tightened the e brake adjuster to the point I can only get one click out of the lever, and still no e brake. Have I not got the shoes adjusted out enough? FWIW, rear brakes stop the tires when on stands, but front brakes lock up and rears don't hitting the pedal hard going down the road. Some direction is really appreciated.
Need Help Regarding Rear Drum Brakes and E Brake
- Thread starter CNSRanch
- Start date
Me thinks that your shoes adjustment is not out far enough. I take mine out to where this light audible drag both sides. Tap the brakes to center the shoes and re adjust if needed to get that slight audible drag. E brake should only require a couple of clicks at that point to be engaged. Since you already went hard after the e brake adjustment I would relax that before going back to the drums and address that adjustment when shoes adjuster are dialed in
Wheel cylinder working one side could be an issue but I am more inclined to think it’s fine if not leaking but if you got heavy corrosion consider replacing.
Wheel cylinder working one side could be an issue but I am more inclined to think it’s fine if not leaking but if you got heavy corrosion consider replacing.
Generally, you shouldn't hit brakes without the drums being on. Either way, the cable adjustment is only half the battle. Take the bottom rubber grommet out of the backing plate. You should see the adjuster. You're going to flick the screwdriver up on the adjuster, while spinning the wheel, and waiting for a slight drag on the wheel. Do not back it off. Then your E-Brake should work pretty good. You'll also want to back off on your cable adjustment.
My Jeep stopped great after the rear brakes were completely redone. The star adjustment not being done correctly still left the parking brake completely useless.
@mrblaine is the brake guy around here
I'd venture to guess your other cylinder is locked up. Might be able to free it up...but I'd replace it. If you've got that much rust are corrosion how do the brake lines look? And that soft line running from what's left of your frame to the axle is probably 20 year old brittle rubber or about ready to swell shut.
I got my rear brakes close...then drove a half mile backwards dragging the brakes to get the adjusters to dial in the drag.
Pictures help!
-Mac
I got my rear brakes close...then drove a half mile backwards dragging the brakes to get the adjusters to dial in the drag.
Pictures help!
-Mac
I re did my rear brakes last year and I just gotta say that I absolutely hate drum brakes compared to disc brakes. I did the drivers side brake and it took me 3 hours to get everything working properly. I was pissed the EFF off after that and got the passenger side done in 45 minutes.
Definitely tweak the star adjuster thing that others have said. Also, find an empty parking lot and drive it backwards and stop frequently to get everything adjusted like others have said.
Drum brakes are such a PITA.
Definitely tweak the star adjuster thing that others have said. Also, find an empty parking lot and drive it backwards and stop frequently to get everything adjusted like others have said.
Drum brakes are such a PITA.
Dragging the brakes doesn't rock the shoes to move the adjuster lever up and back on the star wheel to move it. You don't have to drive very far if you are going to do it that way, just apply and release the brake pedal many times in a row.
That said, to do it correctly, axle on jack stands with tires on, trans in neutral, parking brake off. Turn the star wheel until the tires get difficult to turn with the parking brake cables loosened at the splitter under the tub. Back it off a couple of clicks, adjust the splitter until the slack is out of the cables. Go for a drive, slowish, safely, and apply and release the parking holding the button in several times. You are bedding the shoes a bit and knocking off the high spots. Take it back, loosen the parking brake cables, adjust the star wheels again until there is slight drag, adjust the cables again. Done
Why do you want the rears to lock up? Do you have a death wish or just a very skilled driver?
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