Regardless of the semantics, it does not drop to idle as in the trans being in neutral.Disconnect torque converter is what I said, probably should have said unlock. Roll back on the gas and the torque converter will re-lock.
Regardless of the semantics, it does not drop to idle as in the trans being in neutral.Disconnect torque converter is what I said, probably should have said unlock. Roll back on the gas and the torque converter will re-lock.
The crank can not actually wear much at all or you will not have any oil pressure. What stops the crank from wearing is the oil film that all the crank and piston rod bearings ride on. Without that pressurized oil film, you wouldn't get very far at all because wear would enter into it.
I hope everybody understands I was just trying to get people to think a bit before they spend their money on gears. I have a great deal of respect for all the opinions expressed.
I thought engines wore out based on how much they spun, but if that's not the case I'm wrong, I don't know the answer. A guy that rebuilt my ford six at H&H Flatheads told me, when I asked about the longevity of the model A engine, that they lasted a long time because they don't rev high. He told me older engines that tick away at lower rpm last forever compared to modern engines. He could be wrong, I could be wrong, it's not big deal.
I had an S2000, man that thing had a flat torque curve. Pretty even from 2500-9000rpm. So much fun.
Also note that there is a big difference between a vibration (i.e. bad pinion angle) and a harmonic / cyclical vibration.
I've experienced both, and the latter is almost unreal at speed. If it was possible to view it on an oscilloscope, it would be very, very pronounced.
That is cool , and obviously very thorough workmanship.To be clear and not send folks down a rabbit hole of no return, your rig had other issues that contributed to the overall impression of the harmonic.
Pinion angle in front was off, way off.
Slip spline was worn badly allowing lateral movement in the front driveshaft at the pinion.
Control arm jam nuts were loose, all of them.
Two rearmost seat belt mounting bolts were screwed hard into the back side of the outboard shock mounts.
Exhaust was hard mounted to frame.
Once those issues were resolved, the harmonic diminished to almost non existent at 65 and below. Once above 65 it builds a bit but is fairly acceptable even though annoying but quiet enough to have a conversation in the rig.
I did forget that the nuts that hold the transmission mount to the trans adapter were laying on top of the skid plate. We also fixed several other things but none of note that would have contributed to the perception of the harmonic.That is cool , and obviously very thorough workmanship.
My single all time favorite example of engine RPM is from a Top Fuel Dragster.Yup, the math about total revolutions is just more fun. I always find it very impressive how an oil barrier can support the amount of pressure that the power stroke pushes down with (if my wording makes any sense). When it comes to the bottom end of an engine, I've usually found that everything is working properly until suddenly it isn't, things don't really wear over time.
I'm geared to 4.88 with factory take off JK tires. I hit the OD off switch every time I start it. It is just a matter of making it a habit to be viable.
You probably have a remote control for the in dash head unit.You're a better man than I.
I forced myself to do that for 6 months before I re-geared. No matter how I tried to make it a habit, it was a constant irritation to me to be forced to use a "work around" for normal driving. It might have been different had I used an "off" button on the gearshift like @pagrey does rather than the factory switch on the dash, but shifting out of OD was too inconvenient for me.
To be clear and not send folks down a rabbit hole of no return, your rig had other issues that contributed to the overall impression of the harmonic.
Pinion angle in front was off, way off.
Slip spline was worn badly allowing lateral movement in the front driveshaft at the pinion.
Control arm jam nuts were loose, all of them.
Two rearmost seat belt mounting bolts were screwed hard into the back side of the outboard shock mounts.
Exhaust was hard mounted to frame.
Once those issues were resolved, the harmonic diminished to almost non existent at 65 and below. Once above 65 it builds a bit but is fairly acceptable even though annoying but quiet enough to have a conversation in the rig.
The bolts screwed into the back of the outboard mounts were causing a lot of the interior noise. Turns the tub into a giant speaker.Wow, all things I never had any idea of. I guess I've learned my lesson on who I will not use for a shop future projects.
Those vibrations weren't present until I had it re-geared from 4.10 to 5.38. At that time it still had the Savvy short arms on it and Rancho shocks. Admittedly, I didn't get a chance to take it up past 65 mph after the mid-arm install.
I suspect some of that quiet may come from the two layers of Noico sound deadening material that I put in there. @psrivats said that the Noico in his definitely quieted the harmonic vibration down some.
I remember taking mine up to 90 mph after the re-gear and it was so piercing loud (the harmonic vibration) that it was driving me insane. Of course most of us don't drive our rigs that fast, so I suppose it's not as much of an issue.
The bolts screwed into the back of the outboard mounts were causing a lot of the interior noise. Turns the tub into a giant speaker.
I did forget that the nuts that hold the transmission mount to the trans adapter were laying on top of the skid plate. We also fixed several other things but none of note that would have contributed to the perception of the harmonic.
Wow, all things I never had any idea of. I guess I've learned my lesson on who I will not use for a shop future projects.
Those vibrations weren't present until I had it re-geared from 4.10 to 5.38. At that time it still had the Savvy short arms on it and Rancho shocks. Admittedly, I didn't get a chance to take it up past 65 mph after the mid-arm install.
I suspect some of that quiet may come from the two layers of Noico sound deadening material that I put in there. @psrivats said that the Noico in his definitely quieted the harmonic vibration down some.
I remember taking mine up to 90 mph after the re-gear and it was so piercing loud (the harmonic vibration) that it was driving me insane. Of course most of us don't drive our rigs that fast, so I suppose it's not as much of an issue.
Additionally, the tires were rebalanced. The difference in felt vibes was noticeable on the 15 minute return drive from the shop. They were rebalanced twice actually since at least 2 tires lost their balance and were bugging me after leaving CA (I'm not going to comment here on the reason why they lost balance).
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That's something I never would have found, I'm glad you did.
I thought mine was bad, but the harmonic vibration @psrivats has in his is probably 3 times worse than mine, happens at 45 mph and above, and his barely has anything done to it other than the 2" lift and 4.88 gears.
It's amazing how some of these things do it, while others don't.
So would you say the harmonic vibration is "livable" now, or is it still so annoying that you feel like you're going to keep trying to track it down?
Dave has been trying to track down @psrivats' vibration for months now. Apparently he went as far as replacing the torque convertor in the transmission which didn't do anything, now he's going to be replacing all the bearings in the transfer case.
No Chris, he's yet to replace the torque converter.
Additionally, the tires were rebalanced. The difference in felt vibes was noticeable on the 15 minute return drive from the shop. They were rebalanced twice actually since at least 2 tires lost their balance and were bugging me after leaving CA (I'm not going to comment here on the reason why they lost balance).