Need help with wiring electric radiator fan

mrblaine said:
Did you miss my other post?
Click to expand...

I am sorry Mr.Blaine I dont understand I can run the wiring harness without the sensor ? This is the exact kit that came with my radiator I just dont know where to connect the gold "water temp sensor " do i need tooo?

1555177958532.png
 
mrblaine said:
I'm trying unsuccessfully to find a way to kinda point out the obvious here in a nice way. That is the most basic of wiring. If this is a struggle, the supercharger and getting it all working correctly without blowing something up is going to be a mighty struggle. I've read the descriptions of what has to be done to run the MP charger and I would struggle a bit with it.
Click to expand...

HAAHHAHAHAHAHA your exactly right but literally I dont seem basic. I dont plan on putting the kit alone :))) I really appreciate your help man I am just trying to save money trying to teach my dumbass to learn
 
abdubitar1000 said:
I am sorry Mr.Blaine I dont understand I can run the wiring harness without the sensor ?

View attachment 88146
Click to expand...
Slow down. Take a minute and proof read your posts so that they are a bit more clear. From my other post and I'll trim it down some for you and clarify other points.-

mrblaine said:
The black and white wire are most likely controlling the trigger or coil side of the relay.
The red and blue wires are most likely power in and power out to the fan motor given that the red one has a fuse on it. The white wire is likely doing the same thing as the brown wire. It is the power for the trigger. The other side of the trigger is the sensor closing the circuit to ground. You don't have a circuit breaker, you have a fuse holder.

Red with fuse goes to battery + hook it up to the battery positive terminal. Open the fuse holder and remove the fuse until you are done.
Blue goes to fan based on you saying the fan has a red and blue wire.
Black goes to sensor in the block or manifold. It closes the circuit to ground to control the coil side or trigger side of the relay.
White goes to switched power or ignition power. The easy place to pick that up is the cluster power fuse in the glove box fuse panel. Use a quality fuse tap style add a fuse.
Click to expand...
 
  • Like
Reactions: abdubitar1000
mrblaine said:
Did you miss my other post?
Click to expand...
Sorry for being a jackass and jumping the gun. The MS I plan to pay to have my friend help me. But for now I am trying to figure the most simpleast shit ever. COULD I WIRE UP THE RADIATOR WITHOUT THE WATER TEMP SENSOR FORGET ABOUT THE WIRE THAT CONNECTS TO the "water temp sensor "AND CONNECT IT THE WAY Charles has his electric fan wired up right up to the igntion source meaning dont even in stall it The little gold part is the sesnor in the kit . Thats literally the only thing I dont understand.
88151
 
abdubitar1000 said:
Sorry for being a jackass and jumping the gun. The MS I plan to pay to have my friend help me. But for now I am trying to figure the most simpleast shit ever. COULD I WIRE UP THE RADIATOR WITHOUT THE WATER TEMP SENSOR FORGET ABOUT THE WIRE THAT CONNECTS TO the "water temp sensor "AND CONNECT IT THE WAY Charles has his electric fan wired up right up to the igntion source meaning dont even in stall it The little gold part is the sesnor in the kit . Thats literally the only thing I dont understand.
View attachment 88151
Click to expand...
You're killing me over here. Yes, you can hook it up without the sensor. Just take that wire to ground and it will run the fan full time when the key is on provided you supply ignition power to the white wire on the relay.

Don't know why you want to do it that way, but that is how you do it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: abdubitar1000
mrblaine said:
Slow down. Take a minute and proof read your posts so that they are a bit more clear. From my other post and I'll trim it down some for you and clarify other points.-
Click to expand...

From the electric fan the wires are blue and black ... I should of been more clear . So do I have to run the water temp sensor it came with ?
 
mrblaine said:
You're killing me over here. Yes, you can hook it up without the sensor. Just take that wire to ground and it will run the fan full time when the key is on provided you supply ignition power to the white wire on the relay.

Don't know why you want to do it that way, but that is how you do it.
Click to expand...
FUCKKKK IM SORRY MAN I APPRECIATE YOUR HELP THANK YOU EVERYONE AND MR.BLAINE!!!!
 
mrblaine said:
You're killing me over here. Yes, you can hook it up without the sensor. Just take that wire to ground and it will run the fan full time when the key is on provided you supply ignition power to the white wire on the relay.

Don't know why you want to do it that way, but that is how you do it.
Click to expand...
You do have a sense of humor, who knew😝
 
abdubitar1000 said:
I KNOW I AM LITERALLY AN ANNOYING DUMBASS . But powermonkey you think you can tell me the downsisde of running an electric fan without sensor. WIll it be bad or thats what I am going to be doing when running magnum power supercharge
Click to expand...
The downside is it runs full time. It won't ever shut off if the temp drops low enough in the motor so it isn't needed. You have to figure out if that matters.
 
abdubitar1000 said:
FUCKKKK IM SORRY MAN I APPRECIATE YOUR HELP THANK YOU EVERYONE AND MR.BLAINE!!!!
Click to expand...
I am trying to help you understand how the fan controller and system works. If you understand how it works, then if you have a problem you can go through the various components and find out which ones have caused the problem and fix them. Just hook wire A to B to C doesn't teach you anything and this whole mess is only going to get more complex as you add the charger and circulation pump for the coolant in the heat exchanger.
 
  • Like
Reactions: abdubitar1000
mrblaine said:
None. The only thing you would be doing differently is some sort of thermostatically controlled portion to slow down or speed up the circulation if you were trying to achieve a target temp. Likely the system doesn't have enough excess capacity to overcool the charge air and I'm pretty sure that isn't possible anyway. Based on the fact that one of the Dodge vehicles uses the AC to cool down the heat exchanger, it probably isn't likely that over cooling is an issue.
Click to expand...
Nice Demon insert there 😉
 
mrblaine said:
If that is accurate, there is a pump that circulates coolant. The pump has to be temp controlled somehow unless it just runs all the time. The plumbing for the coolant hoses has to be dealt with. There will or should be an exchanger for the charge air to blow through. That has coolant in it that will need to be sent to the cooling radiator with or without an electric fan on it. If it is in the grill, getting the coolant lines in and out will not be easy. If the radiator winds up under the tub, the length of the lines will need to be taken into account to keep the fluid circulation level correct.

The under tub version will need careful attention. I know beyond a doubt that the under tub trans coolers with a fan on them are only about 1/2 as good as the ones in the grill at anything above crawling speed.

Getting that done cleanly and not looking hacked in there will take some time.
Click to expand...
Well the first part is done. Haven’t decided yet if an air intake of some kind should be added. To help with the added distance I will be using the Shelby GT500 pump. The system does have an expansion tank that will should ensure all air is removed.
42F3E57E-2682-487A-B065-CAB52C5D7848.jpeg
31A323BF-9688-447C-A14E-5F06093F44E6.jpeg
8FE97AF0-1B0B-4053-A7C8-01FC5367A8EB.jpeg
 
Top Bottom
Back