Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Newbie With Towing Questions

senecagreen said:
Fuel system replacement on F250 powerstroke is about 17k and that's just the fuel system.
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$17k sounds like the Ford Dealer price but $12 to $15k is not out of the realm. Run crappy fuel, don't change your fuel filters, don't use an additive for lubrication, then yes the CP4 pump will scatter. Just changed out my CP4 pump at 120,000 miles out of precaution, $4,900

But... I love pulling a 7000lb trailer up hills on cruise control and it never has to downshift on the highway
 
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LJ owner said:
$17k sounds like the Ford Dealer price but $12 to $15k is not out of the realm. Run crappy fuel, don't change your fuel filters, don't use an additive for lubrication, then yes the CP4 pump will scatter. Just changed out my CP4 pump at 120,000 miles out of precaution, $4,900

But... I love pulling a 7000lb trailer up hills on cruise control and it never has to downshift on the highway
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Did you go DCR?
 
I have a buddy pushing 190,000 miles(all towing) on his original pump and is thinking about changing it yet, I don't get it.
 
Abendage said:
Did you use the S&S kit? I'm at about 105k on mine and have been thinking really hard on this. I've owned the truck since new and new filters every 10k, but still is always in the back of my mind.
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Yes, the S&S DCR conversion. It kinda sucks to spend almost $5k on the truck and it runs the same afterwards but I only use it on long drives in the middle of nowhere. Since the first tank of fuel when it was new, I have added Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant which adds lubricity to our low sulphur diesel. Walmart has the best price of $31 a gallon which treats 800 gallons of diesel.
 
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LJ owner said:
I have a buddy pushing 190,000 miles(all towing) on his original pump and is thinking about changing it yet, I don't get it.
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I do believe you can prevent failure with really good filter and fuel maintenance, but it is a big bill if it fails, so I can see why people get afraid and do it. The dealers are famous for dodging warranty coverage and blaming "bad fuel" because it is almost impossible for the customer to prove. Scary when you just paid 90k for a truck and are still within warranty and suddenly get hit with a 12k+ bill.
 
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I have a buddy with the GMC 1/2 ton w/the 3.0 Duramax and this weekend helped him set up a mobile photo booth (his side business). This consisted of towing the photo booth (a renovated 1968 VW bus, similar in weight to our TJs) on a flat bed trailer that I'd guess weighed about what the one you plan to use does.

He recently traded in his 3/4 ton Durmax for the 1/2 ton when he sold his 34' toy hauler. I asked how how the 2 compare and he said that, while he loves the new truck for the improved mileage when not towing, after towing with both, the 1/2 ton does fine on short trips around town with the trailer/VW bus package, but for anything more demanding - either longer trips w/significant grade OR a heavier load to tow - he'd always take the 3/4 ton for better power, better braking and more stability.

If I were in your shoes, I'd lean toward a 3/4 ton, and probably one of the gas options unless you eventually plan to tow more freqently, much further, or much heavier.
 
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DaveC said:
I have a buddy with the GMC 1/2 ton w/the 3.0 Duramax and this weekend helped him set up a mobile photo booth (his side business). This consisted of towing the photo booth (a renovated 1968 VW bus, similar in weight to our TJs) on a flat bed trailer that I'd guess weighed about what the one you plan to use does.

He recently traded in his 3/4 ton Durmax for the 1/2 ton when he sold his 34' toy hauler. I asked how how the 2 compare and he said that, while he loves the new truck for the improved mileage when not towing, after towing with both, the 1/2 ton does fine on short trips around town with the trailer/VW bus package, but for anything more demanding - either longer trips w/significant grade OR a heavier load to tow - he'd always take the 3/4 ton for better power, better braking and more stability.

If I were in your shoes, I'd lean toward a 3/4 ton, and probably one of the gas options unless you eventually plan to tow more freqently, much further, or much heavier.
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We have a few of these in our fleet at work. Empty, they are great and get great mileage. As soon as you put weight behind them, any savings is gone in both fuel and DEF consumption, they chug DEF when loaded.
LJ owner said:
Yes, the S&S DCR conversion. It kinda sucks to spend almost $5k on the truck and it runs the same afterwards but I only use it on long drives in the middle of nowhere. Since the first tank of fuel when it was new, I have added Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant which adds lubricity to our low sulphur diesel. Walmart has the best price of $31 a gallon which treats 800 gallons of diesel.
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Was that $5k installed? The kits I'm looking at are $2,400, am I looking at the wrong ones?
 
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Wildman said:
Some have tires we don't want to wear out on the street.... And if you break something that could prevent you being able to flat tow having a trailer is a nice safety net...
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That, and by the time you outfit the rig to flat tow, you're halfway to the cost of a small car hauler that is useful in many other ways.
 
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Abendage said:
That, and by the time you outfit the rig to flat tow, you're halfway to the cost of a small car hauler that is useful in many other ways.
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That’s what I originally thought until I sold my trailer. I had to pay storage for the trailer. Brake buddy and tow bar ran about $500.

It is a risk if you break something. But everything is a trade off.

All depends on the situation.
 
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Apparition said:
That’s what I originally thought until I sold my trailer. I had to pay storage for the trailer. Brake buddy and tow bar ran about $500.

It is a risk if you break something. But everything is a trade off.

All depends on the situation.
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Very true, I live in the boonies so don’t have to worry about storage.

Ironically, I also own a cheap tow bar, I bought it when I had my Ecoboost the 2nd time it needed cam phasers. I needed a way to get 2 vehicles in to town to drop the truck off for warranty work and the tow bar for the Jeep was cheaper than an Uber, by a lot.
 
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DaveC said:
I have a buddy with the GMC 1/2 ton w/the 3.0 Duramax and this weekend helped him set up a mobile photo booth (his side business). This consisted of towing the photo booth (a renovated 1968 VW bus, similar in weight to our TJs) on a flat bed trailer that I'd guess weighed about what the one you plan to use does.

He recently traded in his 3/4 ton Durmax for the 1/2 ton when he sold his 34' toy hauler. I asked how how the 2 compare and he said that, while he loves the new truck for the improved mileage when not towing, after towing with both, the 1/2 ton does fine on short trips around town with the trailer/VW bus package, but for anything more demanding - either longer trips w/significant grade OR a heavier load to tow - he'd always take the 3/4 ton for better power, better braking and more stability.

If I were in your shoes, I'd lean toward a 3/4 ton, and probably one of the gas options unless you eventually plan to tow more freqently, much further, or much heavier.
Click to expand...

Good advice
 
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Abendage said:
We have a few of these in our fleet at work. Empty, they are great and get great mileage. As soon as you put weight behind them, any savings is gone in both fuel and DEF consumption, they chug DEF when loaded.


Was that $5k installed? The kits I'm looking at are $2,400, am I looking at the wrong ones?
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That was the installed price. I did all my own work on the previous diesel, a 1989 7.3L IDI engine but it was simple. At almost 400k miles, the truck was falling apart around the drivetrain.
 
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Next truck I get is going to be 3/4 ton. My F150 does pull a 1500 lb flatbed and 4060lb jeep, but it struggles. Especially here in the Rockies.
 
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LJ owner said:
$17k sounds like the Ford Dealer price but $12 to $15k is not out of the realm. Run crappy fuel, don't change your fuel filters, don't use an additive for lubrication, then yes the CP4 pump will scatter. Just changed out my CP4 pump at 120,000 miles out of precaution, $4,900

But... I love pulling a 7000lb trailer up hills on cruise control and it never has to downshift on the highway
Click to expand...

yes, thats the dealer price once it fails. It makes 10k for a brand new Ford 7.3 gas longblock installed look reasonable by comparison.

The late model stuff is expensive refardless whether you go gas or diesel. I have had both.
 
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