This is probably my favorite Jeep in the forum, and I’m not a yellow guy. The form, the function, and the attention to detail is amazing. It’s really come together so well. Looking forward to what’s next.
You feel the way I do. He has a way of making you want it or want him to do yours. Looks tough and fun. Bet it is.This is probably my favorite Jeep in the forum, and I’m not a yellow guy. The form, the function, and the attention to detail is amazing. It’s really come together so well. Looking forward to what’s next.
Hey thanks so much.This is probably my favorite Jeep in the forum, and I’m not a yellow guy. The form, the function, and the attention to detail is amazing. It’s really come together so well. Looking forward to what’s next.
It took a long time and a lot of help.You feel the way I do. He has a way of making you want it or want him to do yours. Looks tough and fun. Bet it is.
Hindsight is 20/20He surely knows the pain. After 2 runs at Slickrock, his jeep is looking less like a flawless mall crawler and more like a trail rig. Funny enough, I believe the fender repeatedly getting hit bugs him more than the sliders being used as pivots.
You’re words are kind. Im lucky to have my jeep and this community.Ok, I want to hear it from everyone... Chris, Blaine, Jerry B, all you experienced TJ guys ...what is it about this TJ ...is it the lift , tire size, wheel off set , all of the above that makes it look so muscular and well proportioned.
@nicksjeep can you list the set up on one post for all of guys that need to be this cool-
Serious post, everyone loves this TJ, tell us what makes it look so right-
I have “dress” sliders for the Jeep so don’t mind when they get beat up. The fender flares getting wrecked drives me insane because they are so hard to find, if I could find them I would just buy 4 sets and go on with my life.Hindsight is 20/20
They’re aesthetically pleasing to me I love the classic lines of the TJ. Don’t get me wrong, some flat genrights are nice but I’m still stuck on the stock fenders and flares. I’ve always liked them.
Thanks! And no you didn’t miss it, I didn’t post it. TRE has a bracket.Did I miss how you mounted the front license plate with the TRE fairlead? Looks good
It’s near the bottom of the home pageGood to know, it's not too easy to find on their site (or I'm too lazy)
Did you trim the flares to fit with the Savvy sliders?View attachment 238200View attachment 238201View attachment 238203Here are some better pictures of the standard flares. Honestly I’m wondering why I ever got rid of them. I’m really liking how they look.
No, there’s a little gapDid you trim the flares to fit with the Savvy sliders?
I see this question asked a lot. There isn't any easy way to trim flares to fit flush with any wheel well to wheel well slider. If you think about the shape of the flare, Its has a back surface that gets mounted to the tub. If you cut that surface out (as you would have to to trim for a slider) there is nothing to hold the flare anymore. That end that goes over top of the slider would be loose. You could try to cut the back surface, trim the flare around the slider and try to re-attach the mounting surface somehow, but it would be difficult to make a strong joint. I'm not sure what plastic the flares are made of, probably some sort of urethane. You'd have to know what the plastic is, then pick the correct adhesive for the plastic. Or try to plastic weld them back together...again, you gotta know the base material though so you can get the right "filler" rod.Did you trim the flares to fit with the Savvy sliders?
Damn that looks good!View attachment 238200View attachment 238201View attachment 238203Here are some better pictures of the standard flares. Honestly I’m wondering why I ever got rid of them. I’m really liking how they look.
Yesss finally I'm good for something. Ta-da! this was my solution to that problem.I see this question asked a lot. There isn't any easy way to trim flares to fit flush with any wheel well to wheel well slider. If you think about the shape of the flare, Its has a back surface that gets mounted to the tub. If you cut that surface out (as you would have to to trim for a slider) there is nothing to hold the flare anymore. That end that goes over top of the slider would be loose. You could try to cut the back surface, trim the flare around the slider and try to re-attach the mounting surface somehow, but it would be difficult to make a strong joint. I'm not sure what plastic the flares are made of, probably some sort of urethane. You'd have to know what the plastic is, then pick the correct adhesive for the plastic. Or try to plastic weld them back together...again, you gotta know the base material though so you can get the right "filler" rod.
I don’t plan on doing anything to the flares. The gap doesn’t bug me and if you can’t tell from my thread I’m pretty meticulous so I do think that says something. The gap is hardly noticeable. Also spoiler alert: the rear armor will be going on soonI see this question asked a lot. There isn't any easy way to trim flares to fit flush with any wheel well to wheel well slider. If you think about the shape of the flare, Its has a back surface that gets mounted to the tub. If you cut that surface out (as you would have to to trim for a slider) there is nothing to hold the flare anymore. That end that goes over top of the slider would be loose. You could try to cut the back surface, trim the flare around the slider and try to re-attach the mounting surface somehow, but it would be difficult to make a strong joint. I'm not sure what plastic the flares are made of, probably some sort of urethane. You'd have to know what the plastic is, then pick the correct adhesive for the plastic. Or try to plastic weld them back together...again, you gotta know the base material though so you can get the right "filler" rod.
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