Personally I'd buy (and return) an ignition switch or look at the FSM for a test procedure.
-Mac
-Mac
Nothing happens when turning the key
- Thread starter rmasteller
- Start date
Ah, I thought no crank only. Didn't realize you have no power at all. I would clean the battery cable ends and check the wiring for signs of corrosion. Since your battery voltage doesn't drop at all when you have it connected, sounds like poor connection to battery.
Your battery may just need replacing after all. If it isn't holding a good charge, I would replace the battery first before continuing diagnostics. Good charge would be closer to 13v...12.2 is low. 12.4 is lowest I would want to see and call it OK.
By "scanner" I mean a tool that can show you codes stored in memory and maybe show you live data while vehicle is running. This is the same device that would connect into the OBD2 port.
OK. I also have some older Mercedes Benz cars and in a certain year range they have a large connector under hood for a M-B Hand Held Tester.
https://samstagsales.com/Mercedes_Benz_Hand_Held_Tester.htm
It's MUCH more than an ODB tool. So, I didn't know if you were talking about something like that, but for Jeep. I just have a basic OBD code reader, but nothing that will show me live data. I think I've seen them on YouTube, being used to monitor things like transmission fluid temp or pressure during driving. I'll look into that.
For my money, the best thing I've used is the OBDLink CX off Amazon. It's better than my $100 hand held reader, and I like it way more than the comparable BlueDriver device you see on Amazon.
A new battery is an expensive guess if it doesn't help. I believe my cable/post connections are clean, but I'll try it again tonight because I have to put the battery back in from yesterday's trip. I'll also see what the battery charge is after sitting 24 hours. Advanced Auto Parts got it charged to 13.0v which my 10amp AGM charger wouldn't do. It would say "done" at 12.6v. I'm worried about grounds and chewed wires. I'll check the service manual again, but I think it was saying to replace the battery for my symptoms.
OBDLink CX says it is for BMW/Mini, made for Bimmercode. Maybe you meant the OBDLink MX+ (iPhone, Android) or OBDLink LX (Android)?
Yeah, it would. I'll get around to that. Need to push the jeep down the driveway and position another car within jumper cable range. Might get to that tonight, maybe later in the week. Thanks for all your input today everybody, it's been great!!
It doesn't sound like the battery or the ignition switch, the parts store charged it to 13V so that is plenty and the courtesy lights not working does not point to the ignition switch as that circuit doesn't pass thru the switch. If I had to guess, which is about all I can do from here, I'd say you have a cable issue. Battery cables and ends have been known to corrode thru inside the insulation where you can't see it. Run a jumper from battery negative to the chassis to rule out the negative side then run a jumper from battery positive to the B+ terminals on the PDC terminal stud module and see if you get courtesy lights.
Another clue that points to a cable/connection issue is that when this first started you reported that you had some clicking when turning the key. This says there was some power getting thru but not enough to crank the starter, now you say there is nothing, big clue. Follow the power, both + and -.
Another clue that points to a cable/connection issue is that when this first started you reported that you had some clicking when turning the key. This says there was some power getting thru but not enough to crank the starter, now you say there is nothing, big clue. Follow the power, both + and -.
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It sounds like the battery is Ok. If nothing is working, I would suggest tracing a simpler circuit than the Ignition to find the problem. The FSM has the electrical diagrams. The brake light circuit and the headlight circuit are both much simpler to trace than the Ignition would be. Just a suggestion.
Coachgeo
TJ Enthusiast
Oh, man. I hate to be "that guy" who doesn't wrap up a thread. 
The battery cable connectors had rubber sleeves on them, and the connector clamp (to the actual cable) had broken and come lose. You just couldn't see it under the rubber sleeve.
The battery cable connectors had rubber sleeves on them, and the connector clamp (to the actual cable) had broken and come lose. You just couldn't see it under the rubber sleeve.
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