NV3550 inner shift boot retrofit with older boot

[gbronk]

Hi all, I have a 04' TJ with the 5 speed. Like others my inner shift boot was destroyed, and the OEM ones were $150+.
This was too hard to swallow for me so I decided to 3D print an adapter ring from the 52109771AA boot used on 2003&04 TJs to the older boot used on the AX15/5 jeeps (OMIX 18886.95).

Thought it turned out really nice. Offers full throw of the shifter and fits very well, it does press against the center console on the right side but it's light enough I don't see this being an issue, there's no deformation.

I've seen some people use a mustang shift boot but wanted to keep it as clean as I could, I used the factory bolts for the bottom and captured nuts in the adapter plates to bolt the new boot on. The pictures are from a dry fit, didn't get any when I put it together for the final time since I was short on time, I used some RTV to make a good seal since the tub and around the bolt holes.

Let me know if anyone wants the STL or STEP, I can make some modifications to the design if anyone wants. And if you're really in a jam I'd print you one for a small cost over materials+shipping because it's dumb nobody has made an affordable aftermarket option for a wear part.

 

[YJBrian]

Very nice. What material are you using? Expectations on how it will hold up?

 

[gbronk]

I used PETG with nominal 50% infill and 85% around the fasteners with a generous margin.

I'd expect the printed part will far outlast the rubber AX15 shift boot, there's not really any stress on it beyond just the rubber flexing so my idea was to just replace the cheap rubber and leave the printed adapter as a permanent fixture. We'll see with time though, if it fails I can always print another!

 

[YJBrian]

Once thing that concerns me about using 3D printed parts is the hot/cold cycling as well as the possible oil exposure. I guess you are correct, can always print another! I have picked up some ASA to try out here for some parts that need a little more strength than PLA.

Would appreciate the STEP file for my library if you don't mind sharing, could be useful on the future on my 05.

 

[09SPEEDTRIPLE]

I did a similar thing with a piece of stainless steel

 

[OldBuzzard]

Would appreciate the STEP file for my library if you don't mind sharing, could be useful on the future on my 05.

The '05 one is completely different from the '04, and even more expensive ($200-ish).

 

[YJBrian]

The '05 one is completely different from the '04, and even more expensive ($200-ish).View attachment 305234

Thanks for the info - I have yet to pull mine apart to see the condition of the boot. I believe I need a new transmission mount, so I'll be digging around the area. Hopefully it will be OK cause that's some dough for a rubber boot!

 

[YJBrian]

I did a similar thing with a piece of stainless steel

View attachment 305233

Also nice - Of course, once you have the 3D printer "hammer", every problem is a nail

 

[ATCKIP]

It looks nice. I relaced mine with a cut out section of old truck innertube

 

[OldBuzzard]

YJBrian said: that's some dough for a rubber boot!

Yeah, too rich for my blood. Now, if we could 3D print that thing in all-weather all-temperature rubber...

I'm still looking for something I can mod to cover where it rips, which is just that oval around the shifter. A chunk of old innertube, like ATCKIP used, might do it.

 

[09SPEEDTRIPLE]

Also nice - Of course, once you have the 3D printer "hammer", every problem is a nail

A 3D printer would be nice
but I run CNC mills and lathes

 

[CharlesHS]

I was lucky and found an OEM boot online at a EBay Mopar store for my '01 about 18 months ago for a reasonable price.

 

[YJBrian]

Yeah, too rich for my blood. Now, if we could 3D print that thing in all-weather all-temperature rubber...

I have no experience with these types of materials, but there are flexible 3D printable materials. My guess is that they will not hold up long term, but it would be interesting to test.

 

[gbronk]

Once thing that concerns me about using 3D printed parts is the hot/cold cycling as well as the possible oil exposure. I guess you are correct, can always print another! I have picked up some ASA to try out here for some parts that need a little more strength than PLA.

Would appreciate the STEP file for my library if you don't mind sharing, could be useful on the future on my 05.

Here's the attached STEP. PETG is solvent resistant, I don't see it failing through heat cycles, there's not a lot of stress on it and PETG is fairly ductile.

 

[Liquidsilver]

Digging up an old thread.

Having the same problem with mine, @gbronk how would one contact you about getting one of these made for mine?

Thank you

 

[gbronk]

Digging up an old thread.

Having the same problem with mine, @gbronk how would one contact you about getting one of these made for mine?

Thank you

Can't figure out how to PM people on here so try: [email protected]

 

[YJBrian]

@Liquidsilver if @gbronk can't help, I may be able to. Have a new printer here and looking for an excuse test PETG.

 

[Liquidsilver]

Thank you for the offer, I was looking at his and was curious how he got the boot thread inserts in the part.

@YJBrian Thank you and i will let you know!

 

[gbronk]

Thank you for the offer, I was looking at his and was curious how he got the boot thread inserts in the part.

@YJBrian Thank you and i will let you know!

I modeled hexes for standard nuts into the part and then just pressed them in. Has worked well so far.

 

[YJBrian]

I modeled hexes for standard nuts into the part and then just pressed them in. Has worked well so far.

In 3D printed parts, I have had luck with both Helicoils for screws that are removed with some frequency or just tapping the material for screws that do not get removed. I have not really gotten into heat set inserts, but these also tend to work well. In this case, the hex nuts are probably the best and simplest approach,