Off-road Campers (Towing with LJ)

Shank

Shank

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Does anyone have something similar to the trailer/camper below?

Just starting to put some ideas into CAD. I can model this entire project in not too much time and have a perfect cut list.

I like the idea of an off-road camper as shown below. My wife and I enjoy tent camping, but don't particularly enjoy 100 degree weather tent camping. We would like to travel more and be able to not have to worry as much about weather.

My idea of a camper is:
A place to sleep
A place to get out of the weather
A place to store necessary camping items

The camper needs to be able to be pulled by the LJ (although I see having a TRD Tacoma in the future at some point).

My idea is to build the entire shell, do the exterior, and have an empty inside to start. This will likely be a project that may be years away, too many house and other projects at this time.




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Too further this,

Been really looking more into this, construction, insulation, etc and going to start doing some test panels.

With this, How would you feel towing a 2,000 - 2,500 lbs trailer like this with brakes behind an LJ (6 Speed, 3.73's, 33" tires, newer Grand Cherokee front brakes)? If I don't decide to LS swap in the next year, I may end up regearing.
 
Shank said:
How would you feel towing a 2,000 - 2,500 lbs trailer like this with brakes behind an LJ (6 Speed, 3.73's, 33" tires, newer Grand Cherokee front brakes)? If I don't decide to LS swap in the next year, I may end up regearing.
Click to expand...

Have you ever pulled anything with your Jeep? I'm on 33s with 4.10 gears with a 5-speed and once pulled a ~1500 lb box trailer. I’d want lower gears if I was pulling something like that regularly, probably 4.88s, and also functioning trailer brakes. The trailer basically took away 5th gear and kept me under 55, but I was on the back roads.
 
BlueC said:
Have you ever pulled anything with your Jeep? I'm on 33s with 4.10 gears with a 5-speed and once pulled a ~1500 lb box trailer. I’d want lower gears if I was pulling something like that regularly, probably 4.88s, and also functioning trailer brakes. The trailer basically took away 5th gear and kept me under 55, but I was on the back roads.
Click to expand...

I have pulled about 1500 lbs with no trailer brakes when I was on 30's and stock brakes. I know it will be a dog but that aspect is fixable.
 
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No matter what the weight, electric trailer brakes make towing a much nicer experience. I'd strongly suggest them. I'm running a Redarc Tow Pro controller in the Jeep.

My camper is around 1800lb's and the jeep tows it fine. My camper has all of the bells and whistles (will be getting hot water and shower) but double bed, reverse cycle air con, induction cooktop, 300amps lithium battery, 600w solar, Redarc Redvision etc etc. Everything to do with camping is stored in the camper. We can go away for a week with nothing apart from us in the Jeep.

I had 33's with 4.56 ratios and since I live in a nanny state have gone back to 32's. Frankly it made not a lot of difference without the camper, with the camper the side benefit is that large climbs are nicer with the lower gearing.

I tend to drive with the camper on, around 55-65mph.

If building one, don't overbuild think airplane rather than house. And rather than taking the opinions of the beard stroking online experts look to how manufacturers build, they have to sell and warrant them.

Oregan trailers manufacture a really nice range suitable for Jeeps (the doodrop alpha is a superb minimalist offroad teardrop, weighs 900lb) and do some quite good videos regarding how they do construction. https://oregontrailer.net/

Hitch campers in Australia do a very nice square drop camper thats of composite construction and weighs about 1800lb and has most of the bells and whistles. https://www.hitchcampers.com.au/

You can start to see that your targets of 2000-2500lbs makes a very heavy camper, you should be aiming a lot less than that.
 
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Daz7 said:
No matter what the weight, electric trailer brakes make towing a much nicer experience. I'd strongly suggest them. I'm running a Redarc Tow Pro controller in the Jeep.

My camper is around 1800lb's and the jeep tows it fine. My camper has all of the bells and whistles (will be getting hot water and shower) but double bed, reverse cycle air con, induction cooktop, 300amps lithium battery, 600w solar, Redarc Redvision etc etc. Everything to do with camping is stored in the camper. We can go away for a week with nothing apart from us in the Jeep.

I had 33's with 4.56 ratios and since I live in a nanny state have gone back to 32's. Frankly it made not a lot of difference without the camper, with the camper the side benefit is that large climbs are nicer with the lower gearing.

I tend to drive with the camper on, around 55-65mph.

If building one, don't overbuild think airplane rather than house. And rather than taking the opinions of the beard stroking online experts look to how manufacturers build, they have to sell and warrant them.

Oregan trailers manufacture a really nice range suitable for Jeeps (the doodrop alpha is a superb minimalist offroad teardrop, weighs 900lb) and do some quite good videos regarding how they do construction. https://oregontrailer.net/

Hitch campers in Australia do a very nice square drop camper thats of composite construction and weighs about 1800lb and has most of the bells and whistles. https://www.hitchcampers.com.au/

You can start to see that your targets of 2000-2500lbs makes a very heavy camper, you should be aiming a lot less than that.
Click to expand...

I appreciate your response. Wanted to respond earlier but was tied up.

Certainly will run electric brakes and the controller suggestion is helpful.

I haven’t gone as far as spec’ing exact items but greatly appreciate knowing what you’re running and it will help with selection.

Regearing certainly seems like it will be in order for me. Fortunately (or unfortunately) the first year pulling will almost guaranteed be local so I will manage on flat ground.

Absolutely understand not over building. Actually will be building two of these and will be building as light as possible (likely no heat and ac for now) and do not intend to hit that 2500lb number. That would be an absolutely full unit. I plan to be sub 1,000 empty.

I have began looking how commercial manufacturers are building theirs.

My brother has a JL Rubicon and surprisingly (well I guess not because wheel base) his legal tow limit is less than mine (although his brakes were better than mine before upgrade, gearing is better, power is better).

Tomorrow I will check out the units you sent.

Again, thank you.
 
BlueC said:
I didn't know pulling with a Jeep was that serious. I'd think the dry sump system there cost as much as most of our Jeeps. ;)
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I have a 5.3 sitting on an engine stand in front of my LJ. I have torn into it, need to check bore and bearings, refresh, etc. it’s the eventual plan. Maybe (hopefully) run a TR4050. This will be after my first season with this trailer I am sure.
 
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My brother's Off Road camper will be delivered this week. He's running a 2 door JL Rubicon with a 2.5" lift and 35's. As long as July goes well for the arrival of a baby Shank I will be ordering one in Sept/Oct.

The logical plan financially for me is to use the 4Runner for our trip summer '25 (plan to do 3 weeks out west). The reality is the 4Runner is better in every way for travel - at least until I do some significant work to the LJ.
 
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Mine is around 1000# loaded. I have an 05 LJR 6sp 4:10 2,5”lift and 32s. Pulls the grades here with no issues. I will be adding a 2.5” lift to the trailer. Taking it on a 4 day trip to the Mojave Thurs for it’s first trip. I went with a used factory manufactured teardrop because it would take me too long to build one myself. It has composite walls which adds some insulation. Mine has no brakes.
 
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bucky said:
View attachment 522929
Mine is around 1000# loaded. I have an 05 LJR 6sp 4:10 2,5”lift and 32s. Pulls the grades here with no issues. I will be adding a 2.5” lift to the trailer. Taking it on a 4 day trip to the Mojave Thurs for it’s first trip. I went with a used factory manufactured teardrop because it would take me too long to build one myself. It has composite walls which adds some insulation. Mine has no brakes.
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Little Guy. How do you like it and how is the build quality? I haven't much looked at one but doing as you plan could be an option for me - however it seems quite tall. I would think adding brakes to that will be appreciated, especially if you have stock LJ brakes - mine completely sucked.
 
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I have not camped in it yet. I bought it in Fl and towed it back to Ca. I got better milage coming back than the trip there. I took it on a test run with the LJ and went up and down my local grades with no issues. The manual is great for the down grades. Did some stops with no issues but I’ll see this weekend when its fully loaded and I pull some bigger grades. I figure fully loaded I’ll be 400# heavier. Build quality is excellent. I went with a 2015 model because the newer ones have a window in the front which I did not like and new ones cost way more. It’s the same height as the LJ but will be slightly higher when I lift it 2.5”. Drove to the Grand Canyon this last weekend and passed some TJs pulling trailers that were pulling way more than they should and were sagging so much it looked like they had no weight on the front tires.
 
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Shank said:
Too further this,

Been really looking more into this, construction, insulation, etc and going to start doing some test panels.

With this, How would you feel towing a 2,000 - 2,500 lbs trailer like this with brakes behind an LJ (6 Speed, 3.73's, 33" tires, newer Grand Cherokee front brakes)? If I don't decide to LS swap in the next year, I may end up regearing.
Click to expand...

It'll tow just fine as long as you don't expect it to drive like you're not towing anything. It will be more apparent that you should regear.
 
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bucky said:
I have not camped in it yet. I bought it in Fl and towed it back to Ca. I got better milage coming back than the trip there. I took it on a test run with the LJ and went up and down my local grades with no issues. The manual is great for the down grades. Did some stops with no issues but I’ll see this weekend when its fully loaded and I pull some bigger grades. I figure fully loaded I’ll be 400# heavier. Build quality is excellent. I went with a 2015 model because the newer ones have a window in the front which I did not like and new ones cost way more. It’s the same height as the LJ but will be slightly higher when I lift it 2.5”. Drove to the Grand Canyon this last weekend and passed some TJs pulling trailers that were pulling way more than they should and were sagging so much it looked like they had no weight on the front tires.
Click to expand...

I am surprised at you mpg findings for sure. I may well have to check one of those out in person. Let us know how your trip goes!

srimes said:
It'll tow just fine as long as you don't expect it to drive like you're not towing anything. It will be more apparent that you should regear.
Click to expand...
I understand this - though I have to get used to an underwhelming gas engine when towing. Such is life.
 
Physical size matters as much as weight. My show truck trailer has a box that is 10’ tall and 27’ long. My 7.3 pulls it great but if I have a 40mph headwind my mpg drops in half and its petal to the floor to maintain 55mph on the flats. Its a triple axel and 14K loaded so side winds are not an issue. Because of the teardrop’s weight and aerodynamics I never felt like I was towing with my Suburban. Just like our TJs pushing an additional brick through the wind is hard.
So far I’ve loaded 160# water, 120# gas, 50# generator, 50# tools and about 100# of miscellaneous gear for a total of 480#. It adds up fast and I still have room left for more crap. That’s why I went with a light aerodynamic teardrop. Luckily my Son will be bringing the Suburban with a trailer for our golf cart, 50 more gal of water, firewood and a mini jeep. Yep we’re loaded for bear.
 
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