OP
Oil drip after oil change
- Thread starter Joeinnewjersey
- Start date
OP
Usually Valvoline, Pennzoil, or Mobil Super conventional high mileage 10W-30. The one that stopped my BMW's bad RMS leak was Mobil Super. But I'm not fussy, I'll use any major brand 10W-30 so long as it is a conventional high mileage.
I'm not anti-synthetic, I just don't feel I need to pay extra for it here in my temperate SoCal location. Synthetics are superb in that they flow better in extra-cold locations.
I use an extractor to remove the oil thru the dipstick tube.
Refill with Mobil One High mileage 10-40 which I change every 3-4k.
Hastings LF594 filter.
Refill with Mobil One High mileage 10-40 which I change every 3-4k.
Hastings LF594 filter.
That leaves the sludge in the bottom of the pan. I wouldn't even use that method with my boat engine which was next to impossible to get to its drain plug.
With an oil change every 3-4k the oil is barely discolored.
3-4k mile oil change is what the two pervious owners since did new, so I doubt there is sludge in the sump.
3-4k mile oil change is what the two pervious owners since did new, so I doubt there is sludge in the sump.
And you'll never know if there is by sucking the old oil up out of the dip stick tube. Why don't you drain it through the normal drain plug? It's faster and it gets everything out.
Maybe you started paying more attention because you did the change and it was there all along without you noticing? I have the same thing, and from what I've seen people say is as long as its not more than a drip every now and then it's not an issue. Mine is just oily on the transmission and I haven't noticed drips so I have just ignored it
OP
It’s possible but I’m sure it wasn’t leaking before. I checked all the time. Strange things are afoot at the circle k.
OP
If it proves to be a RMS leak I will do another oil change with conventional motor oil. Do I also have to change the brand new filter I just installed as well?
Draining via the drain plug gets oil on the skid plate where it the drips off.
Extractor is just cleaner and easier.
No laying on the ground with a drain pan.
Just pull the dip stick, insert extractor tube and extract away.
Extractor is just cleaner and easier.
No laying on the ground with a drain pan.
Just pull the dip stick, insert extractor tube and extract away.
The oil is a synthetic blend. I changed my oil in my 06 to a synth blend and got a very small rear main seal leak immediately after its first short run. I cant get conventional high mileage all the high mileage where I live is fully synthetic plus I wanted to change to 10w 40 which I couldn't find in conventional anyway!
I live with the small leak as my TJ motor seems to liked the 10w 40 in our winter. I bought Castrol Magnatec at half price so got enough for another change, I will early change in November when it starts to warm up here but I may be going 10w 50 for summer so might keep the spare 10w 40 for start of winter change.
If the leak bothers you change it to a conventional high mileage, the cost of oil and time to change it is peanuts compared to the bee you will have in your bonnet if you cant find the leak. There is no sump plug washer on the 06 might be the same for all TJ,s? and if it is from spillage it wont dribble down for long once the engine gets hot a few times.
I have owned Triumphs most of my life so oil leaks dont bother me, the colour of the leak lets me know when its time for an oil change
My 06 oil gauge sits just right of centre and moves higher when accelerating, never drops below half unless switched off, so this could mean low ish pressure when not under higher revs?
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Nope. If the oil pressure was below where it should be it'd show a Check Gauges light and a low pressure indication on the gauge.
JKP
TJ Addict
All that gauge is telling you is that you have 6 PSI or more. It's a switch, not a true sending unit.
Engine Oil Pressure Message - Each time the
cluster receives a message from the PCM indicating
the engine oil pressure of a 2.4L engine is above
about 0.2 kg/cm2 (3 psi), or of any engine other than
a 2.4L is above about 0.4 kg/cm2 (6 psi), the cluster
moves the gauge needle to the middle of the normal
range on the gauge scale to represent the engine oil
pressure. The gauge needle will continue to be positioned
at the middle of normal range on the gauge
scale until the cluster receives a message from the
PCM that indicates the engine oil pressure is low, or
until the ignition switch is turned to the Off position,
whichever occurs first.
OP
My first car was a firebird that leaked oil bad. I hated it and I don’t want to see it now on the Jeep. I’m gonna switch to the conventional.The oil is a synthetic blend. I changed my oil in my 06 to a synth blend and got a very small rear main seal leak immediately after its first short run. I cant get conventional high mileage all the high mileage where I live is fully synthetic plus I wanted to change to 10w 40 which I couldn't find in conventional anyway!
I live with the small leak as my TJ motor seems to liked the 10w 40 in our winter. I bought Castrol Magnatec at half price so got enough for another change, I will early change in November when it starts to warm up here but I may be going 10w 50 for summer so might keep the spare 10w 40 for start of winter change.
If the leak bothers you change it to a conventional high mileage, the cost of oil and time to change it is peanuts compared to the bee you will have in your bonnet if you cant find the leak. There is no sump plug washer on the 06 might be the same for all TJ,s? and if it is from spillage it wont dribble down for long once the engine gets hot a few times.
I have owned Triumphs most of my life so oil leaks dont bother me, the colour of the leak lets me know when its time for an oil change
OP