OME 2.5" lift kit: tips and tricks for a smooth install

TurboTJ said:
The OME 2.5 inch kit does not have bump stop extensions for the front, only for the rear. The rear extensions are 20 mm which are inadequate to prevent their trackbar relocation bracket from hitting the tub. You really need 1.5 inch extensions.
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Seems pointless to bother getting their extensions then. Thanks 👍
 
BeavisTJ said:
So the bump stop extensions at the front are on the axle spring perch? Is that what you're saying?
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BeavisTJ said:
So the bump stop extensions at the front are on the axle spring perch? Is that what you're saying?
Click to expand...
BeavisTJ said:
So the bump stop extensions at the front are on the axle spring perch? Is that what you're saying?
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Front on axle ; rear on top.
240CDC17-19DC-4B13-95AE-70436676BB01.jpeg
 
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JMT said:
Some you can simply loosen, others you want to remove

To change springs

1. Loosen wheel lug nuts on front wheels
2. Chock rear wheels
3. Lift Jeep at front differential by placing a rag over floor jack pad to protect the differential
4. Place jack stands under frame behind lower control arms
4. Lower floor jack until frame rests on jack stands but leave floor jack under differential
5. Remove wheels
6. Raise floor jack under axle next to differential
7. Remove lower shock bolts
8. Loosen track bar at axle side
9. Loosen lower control arms
10. Remove sway bar links
11. Lower the floor jack slowly
12. Springs should come out
13. If not, move jack to C on opposite side of axle and jack up. Opposite side spring should come out.

Torque Specs

Shocks Front (lower) 21
Shocks Rear (lower) 74

Track Bar Front (@Axle) 55
Track Bar Rear (@Axle) 74

Sway Bar Front (lower) 70
Sway Bar Rear (lower) 40

Lower Control Arms Front (@Axle) 85
Lower Control Arms Rear (@Axle) 130

Lug Nuts 85-110
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I know this is an old thread but just wanted to clarify a few things before I start loosening and removing anything. When tightening up the lower control arms and axle side track bar at the bracket (once I've re-installed my springs) is there anything I need to do to assure the front end is in correct alignment and all angles correct. Do I torque everything back up while still on the jack stands or re-install the tires and I lower the jeep off the stands and back to it's ride height? (or does it even matter -I'm not even sure if loosening and re-torquing the track bar or lower control arms affect the geometry of my front end)
 
Gasman said:
I know this is an old thread but just wanted to clarify a few things before I start loosening and removing anything. When tightening up the lower control arms and axle side track bar at the bracket (once I've re-installed my springs) is there anything I need to do to assure the front end is in correct alignment and all angles correct. Do I torque everything back up while still on the jack stands or re-install the tires and I lower the jeep off the stands and back to it's ride height? (or does it even matter -I'm not even sure if loosening and re-torquing the track bar or lower control arms affect the geometry of my front end)
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Don't tighten/torque your control arm bolts until the Jeep is back on the ground and supporting it's own weight.
 
Gasman said:
I know this is an old thread but just wanted to clarify a few things before I start loosening and removing anything. When tightening up the lower control arms and axle side track bar at the bracket (once I've re-installed my springs) is there anything I need to do to assure the front end is in correct alignment and all angles correct. Do I torque everything back up while still on the jack stands or re-install the tires and I lower the jeep off the stands and back to it's ride height? (or does it even matter -I'm not even sure if loosening and re-torquing the track bar or lower control arms affect the geometry of my front end)
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After you've done the lift you will need to do an alignment. There is a good thread on how to do this yourself in the How-To section.

1) lower the rig back to the ground (ride height)
2) tighten the CA bolts to spec while on the ground
3) your front axle will be shifted to the drivers side.
4) adjust your trackbar to center the axle (*if you do not have an adjustable track bar, skip this step and move to step 5)
5) tighten up the trackbar to spec
6) follow the alignment procedures

You should be good to go.
 
JMT said:
After you've done the lift you will need to do an alignment. There is a good thread on how to do this yourself in the How-To section.

1) lower the rig back to the ground (ride height)
2) tighten the CA bolts to spec while on the ground
3) your front axle will be shifted to the drivers side.
4) adjust your trackbar to center the axle (*if you do not have an adjustable track bar, skip this step and move to step 5)
5) tighten up the trackbar to spec
6) follow the alignment procedures

You should be good to go.
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I'm actually not doing the lift...Just using your instructions to remove my springs so I can install bump stops.
 
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TJim said:
Can you please confirm if the Front sway bar end link torque spec is correct? seems a bit high!
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Download the FSM for your year from this site and you will find all of your torque specs in one place. Also recommend grabbing the parts pdf.
 
TJim said:
For some reason I can't find the sway bar end links in my FSM.
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It's called the Stabilizer Bar in the FSM. Mine shows 70 ft/lbs for the lower bolt/nut as well. If you have an aftermarket link like JKS quick disconnects, those will likely be different

EDIT: Just checked my JKS, they're 65 ft/lbs for the lower studs, so maybe aftermarket ones are pretty similar after all
 
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IrishWake said:
It's called the Stabilizer Bar in the FSM. Mine shows 70 ft/lbs for the lower bolt/nut as well. If you have an aftermarket link like JKS quick disconnects, those will likely be different

EDIT: Just checked my JKS, they're 65 ft/lbs for the lower studs, so maybe aftermarket ones are pretty similar after all
Click to expand...
Thanks! I found it that way!

For my 2004 TJ:

Stabilizer Bar Link Lower Bolt 75 ft/lbs
 
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TJim said:
Can you please confirm if the Front sway bar end link torque spec is correct? seems a bit high!
Click to expand...
Front lower is 70ft/lb
Front upper is 45 ft/lb
 
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Hello all, I am having some issues fitting my 2.5 OME springs. I loosened/removed everything that y'all have suggested and lowered my axle until the rotors are almost touching the ground. I have even jacked up on one side, used a spring compressor, and still cant get them in. I suspect I may not have the frame jacked up high enough because I am using 3 ton jack stands. I was considering going to get some concrete blocks or cinder blocks to put the jack stands on to hopefully be able to get enough height. I just dont want to break/bend anything and I also want to be as safe as I can be and not have the axle slide off the jack or have the frame fall off the stands. Any advice/suggestions? @JMT @Chris
 
Stack said:
Hello all, I am having some issues fitting my 2.5 OME springs. I loosened/removed everything that y'all have suggested and lowered my axle until the rotors are almost touching the ground. I have even jacked up on one side, used a spring compressor, and still cant get them in. I suspect I may not have the frame jacked up high enough because I am using 3 ton jack stands. I was considering going to get some concrete blocks or cinder blocks to put the jack stands on to hopefully be able to get enough height. I just dont want to break/bend anything and I also want to be as safe as I can be and not have the axle slide off the jack or have the frame fall off the stands. Any advice/suggestions? @JMT @Chris
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Pics would help see what is going on. If you can’t get it by loosening the TB, disconnecting the sway bar, shocks, and loosening the control arm bolts, you might take off the pinion end of the front driveshaft.

Raising it higher may help too. Using blocks under the jack is fine if done right. Springs can be a bear to get on if it’s your first time. Wrestling match.
 
You removed the stock springs but can't get the OMEs in even with a compressor?

I didn't disconnect anything and they would almost go in. Just jacked one side up as far as it would go and let the other side hang free. I used a compressor but it didn't take much.

Agree that some pics would help.
 
WallyWest said:
You removed the stock springs but can't get the OMEs in even with a compressor?

I didn't disconnect anything and they would almost go in. Just jacked one side up as far as it would go and let the other side hang free. I used a compressor but it didn't take much.

Agree that some pics would help.
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I did basically this, I just jacked up the opposite side, and used some leverage. when sway bars, shocks, and track bars are disconnected you do get a lot of room to move stuff around.
 
Yeti08 said:
I did basically this, I just jacked up the opposite side, and used some leverage. when sway bars, shocks, and track bars are disconnected you do get a lot of room to move stuff around.
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I'll add some pics tomorrow. I forgot to grab new jounces and cutting oil to drill for the bump stops. Ill have that stuff tomorrow so ill resume the job tomorrow afternoon. But yeah I have every bolt on every control arm loose, the track bar is disconnected, sway bar is disconnected on both sides, shocks are both removed. My jack stands are 3 tons but they are right in front of the trans skid and I used the OE bottle jack on its highest setting to push up on one side when i let the jack down. I had the rotor literally a hair from the ground and I tried as hard as i could to push the spring in. I tried twisting, pushing, pry bars, etc. When i tried the spring compressor, i didnt want to crank it down too much but even with that it wouldnt fit. Its hanging up on the back part of where the shock mount is, which is where i got the original springs out from.
 
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