This is a great picture for reference. It illustrates something that may be confusing to many people, especially if you're more of a visual person.
One little picture explains quite a bit
- Thread starter Chris
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The exact reason why you cannot just buy shocks based on the "lift amount" listed by companies. The 5000X runs long, as an example.
OP
So true! In defense of new Jeep owners, the shock manufactures really deceive you by just listing things like "for 3.5-4" lift". It can be a bit daunting trying to understand it if you're new to off-road suspensions.
Most take the rec's as the end all be all. I would also guess most do not cycle their suspension and set it up properly, instead they bolt everything on and just run it. We have all seen plenty of rigs with tall lifts, 33+ tires, and no bump stop extensions, or extensions that aren't correct.
OP
That's how mine came compliments of the previous owner. A dropped pitman arm, 4" of lift, and literally zero bump stop extension. So yeah, I would say that assessment is dead-on accurate.
OP
Pretty sure that shock is going to bottom out anyways. Definitely the wrong shock for that application.
So based on what I see, the shock is not the correct size for the current set up? What size shock would be needed? A bigger or smaller shock? So if that’s a shock for a 4 inch lift, would you need a shock for say a 3.5 inch lift? Or bigger bump Stops?
A shorter model. Best to forget the "2-4" lift" recommendation and do some measurements.
Just for my own muddled brain clarification, the distance the shock can collapse must equal the distance from the steel bumpstop cup to the lower bumpstop surface, so the jounce bumper will stop it from collapsing that much...?
OP
Yep. When those measurements are taken, the jounce bumper isn’t included. The jounce bumper is put in last, and basically just acts as a bumper, so if you do impact, it’s not straight metal on metal.
OP
This was actually very confusing to me when I first got into Jeeps. But after looking at photos it really helped me to understand what exactly is going on and why it’s important to measure and cycle suspension. I would never again order shocks that say they are for 3-4” of lift without taking measurements first.
Problem is, most people don’t want to take the time to do this.
Problem is, most people don’t want to take the time to do this.
The shock in the picture above is too long. It would be helpful if we had an image without the boot so we can see the shock shaft. Unfortunately, I can't help with that either.
This is an example of what the end result ought to be. The axle has been raised to full bump/full flex. The extended bump stop has made contact with the axle pad before anything else, including the tires. The shock has not quite reached full compression.
Beyond that, the bump stops have first been extended in order to prevent any and all interferences. The new compressed shock should fit within this space. If the new compressed shock is longer, then additional bump stop extension is required in order to prevent over-compression.
I find it easier to focus on the compressed shock lengths and fitting it into that space. Then I go from there with the rest of the considerations.
The ultimate goal is to have just enough bump stop extension to prevent damage, followed by a shock that will provide at least 4" of up and down travel and from normal ride height. Additionally, the spring lift should also be enough to regain the lost travel from the extended bump stops.
If after you have correctly set the bump stops and you don't have 4" of up travel, then you need to add more lift. Measure the gap between the cup and axle pad to see what the up travel is.
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For everyone to see, the soft jounce is designed to compress into the cup. The sole purpose of the jounce is to slow the suspension just before the smack of hard bump.
On mine, the jounces are removed for the purposes of setting up the bumps and shocks. They went back in once I was finished.
In the vice image, the yellow band is the soft jounce pressed inside the cup.
OP