Operation Phoenix

Yes it's pretty normal. Forest Service has a form we fill out with the vin number. We have to provide 5-6 pictures of all sides, plates, vin. Then they'll send someone out to tag the vehicle. Sometimes it takes a few days. Sometimes months. The new LEO captain thinks we're a nuisance...since we're basically forcing them to do a job they're trying really hard to ignore.

Interesting thing about this truck, allegedly as the story goes...the truck wrecked in early March. Someone else reported it to the county sheriff, who sent search and rescue volunteers to clear the vehicle. Apparently they never reported it to the Forest Service or both agencies got into a "not it" battle and did nothing.

First thing we're doing is pulling the driveshafts. It's in gear.

We'll run double line pulls at a minimum and more likely a three or four way. Two trucks...mine with a 12k, another volunteer with a 15k pulling through a path through trees to the left. Then two TJs perpendicular to the pull path providing stablization, roll, pitch and yaw.

Once up we will drag, roll or whatever about 2 miles to the main road and load it into my dump trailer. Three trucks, two jeeps.

Savvy shift cable arrived. Got it installed. Made a video for folks to use and reference.


View: %5BURL%5Dhttps://youtu.be/Njux1I_mWns?is=56C2oiQl_xhcD0Mq[/URL]

Figured out what was wrong with the Steinjager. Nuts. Specifically one...and a connector body...they fell into the cup under the shifter and jammed the operation. While the Stienjager looks like crap...the boots are rotting off...the crimps are failing...it works okish.

When tightening the cable on the bracket I decided a 15/16" crows foot would be a perfect fit. My small set ends at 7/8 and my big set starts a 1". Grr.

Finished laying down closed cell foam under the foot wells. Probably should have pulled the seats. Hopefully that'll help cut down on some of the heat.

View attachment 696654View attachment 696655View attachment 696656View attachment 696657View attachment 696658View attachment 696659View attachment 696660

-Mac


Thanks for the explanation. That's frustrating - but not surprising - the 'fight' the locals to do more than the 'status quo'.

I can't believe the time you spend out there doing all the clearing you do and I give you a ton of kudos for all that work and time!! You're doing the Country proud keeping her beautiful!

——

Jeep is continuing to look good. Upgrades in all the right places!
 
Pulled my center console and bedrug mat out of the front in anticipation of a new Savvy shift cable arriving this afternoon. It's insane how much debris is under the mat.

View attachment 696538View attachment 696539

Then I dropped the skid plate to start pulling the brackets and found this...


View: %5BURL%5Dhttps://youtu.be/BG8gIw4eHhI?is=W2YrQ2SylijNeiLi[/URL]

Ordered a yoke from Tom Woods $100 shipped. Don't think it's the bearing...note the nut not moving.

I should do what @Woodrow keeps telling me to do and order an Atlas...but even if I did that they wouldn't be here for two months.

Oh and I'll repost these pictures from over in the Umpqua National Forest. Dodge Diesel down quite a steep embankment. Waiting for permission to recover from the authorities.

View attachment 696540View attachment 696541View attachment 696542
View attachment 696544

-Mac


It looks like the yolk is moving relative to the shaft. So it could be the yolk, or the shaft, or both. And that movement could’ve messed up the bearing too. So yep, time for an Atlas.

Agree with @FarFire70. That looks like heavy pull.
 
When tightening the cable on the bracket I decided a 15/16" crows foot would be a perfect fit. My small set ends at 7/8 and my big set starts a 1". Grr.
658.webp
 
Very cool, Mac. What are you using for CAD?

Well I started using Fusion and then it threw errors exporting to gcode...so I switched to OnShape until I realized it doesn't have a native path to export to gcode...so then back to Fusion where I figured out in addition to adding the plasma cutter you have to import the table into the post processing section...which finally got me gcode.

Then I put three hours into figuring why the torch wasn't firing... continuity tests on the trigger cable.. manually connecting the wires and confirming I can get the torch to fire. Finally took apart the control box and found the firing relay had fallen off the board. Reseated it...bam.

I've spent hours and hours figuring this out.

I'm really good at manually making something once. Making multiples that are exactly the same is my issue.

This looks like it's going to be a great tool.

-Mac
 
Well I started using Fusion and then it threw errors exporting to gcode...so I switched to OnShape until I realized it doesn't have a native path to export to gcode...so then back to Fusion where I figured out in addition to adding the plasma cutter you have to import the table into the post processing section...which finally got me gcode.

Then I put three hours into figuring why the torch wasn't firing... continuity tests on the trigger cable.. manually connecting the wires and confirming I can get the torch to fire. Finally took apart the control box and found the firing relay had fallen off the board. Reseated it...bam.

I've spent hours and hours figuring this out.

I'm really good at manually making something once. Making multiples that are exactly the same is my issue.

This looks like it's going to be a great tool.

-Mac

I use Fusion as well, and have gone through some of the same challenges learning to get things to the 3D printer (different ball game than dealing directly with G-Code, but the same type of learning). I came over to Fusion from Sketchup, so I did have a bunch of experience with 3D design, and that helped with my learning Fusion. But, above all - I find it fun. And learning is never a bad thing. I now look for excuses to design things in Fusion, where in the past (for metal work, anyway), I would have just jumped right into the fab work.

Roll Cage Rail Support - with Rail Bar 2.webp


But yeah, I need a plasma table...

:cool:
 
Well I started using Fusion and then it threw errors exporting to gcode...so I switched to OnShape until I realized it doesn't have a native path to export to gcode...so then back to Fusion where I figured out in addition to adding the plasma cutter you have to import the table into the post processing section...which finally got me gcode.

Then I put three hours into figuring why the torch wasn't firing... continuity tests on the trigger cable.. manually connecting the wires and confirming I can get the torch to fire. Finally took apart the control box and found the firing relay had fallen off the board. Reseated it...bam.

I've spent hours and hours figuring this out.

I'm really good at manually making something once. Making multiples that are exactly the same is my issue.

This looks like it's going to be a great tool.

-Mac

Man, you are awesome on so many levels! If you're not out pulling dead vehicles from the woods, you're hooking up and using high tech shit that the rest of us (well, me anyway) couldn't figure out if someone held my hand and helped me step by step.

That first paragraph could just as well be written in Japanese. I didn't understand a word of it.

Kudos, Mac!
 
Ok...Tom Woods sourced replacement yoke arrived for my SYE. Little slather of grey RTV on the splines, couple of wuggas on the small 500 lb impact gun and perfect.

New yoke has more beef on the side.

IMG20260630170846.webp
IMG20260630170835.webp


Chased down a new outer pinion bearing, race and seal. The rear pinion has a little play.

When that centering ball goes out it's no joke...get that fixed asap or it's a wrecking ball on your drivetrain.

Thought I could be ninja and sneak out the bearing...but no dice. Going to eventually have to completely pull apart the rear end. For now I'm saying it's just a little play. I'll monitor it.

Replaced the vent tube on the top of my Frankenstein 231J. The press fit tube wouldn't stay in. Loctite, RTV... nothing worked and it would fall out and contribute to the minor fluid leaks out of this POS.

Basically tapped the hole with an 1/8" npt tap... technically the hole is a few thou too big but it tapped perfectly and a brass barbed nipple slid right in. I used small clear hose for 10" and ran it into my existing reasonably refreshed vent hose that runs up next to the brake booster. Curious to see how much fluid collects.

IMG20260629142446.webp

IMG20260629142530.webp


Test drive was awesome. First off this is the first time in years I can just flick into 4 low without yanking the handle 10 times and having it pop out of gear.

Second, I previously was getting a wicked shudder on acceleration from a stop. Gone. All smooth. That shudder was the rear shaft doing a Hulu dance around the yoke.

Greased up everything I could touch.

Need to replace the oil pressure sensor for the sixth time. And figure out a decent mount for my rugged intercom... it's wedged under the passenger seat under the emergency brake. And fix the Glowshift oil pressure and temp gauge...the face is super scratched up...need to try and polish it out. Dust and glass cleaner scratched it up. Shrug.

-Mac
 
  • Like
Reactions: macleanflood
This stuff works pretty well if the face is glass. Polishing glass is slow business.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional...und-Solution/dp/B009DHM7FM?tag=wranglerorg-20

It's polycarbonate. And cheap polycarbonate at that.

Swapped my oil pressure sensor. Noticed the plug was really loose so I put a couple of wraps of electrical tape on the connector to tighten it up. Maybe it'll help. This is oil pressure sensor number 6.

One way or another it was nice to drive into town without check gauges light on the whole time.

11.37 mpg on my last tank.

-Mac
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
At least polycarbonate is pretty easy to polish. You can wet sand with like 1000->1500->2000 if it's really bad, and then regular paint compound -> paint polish. If you've got some ceramic coating paint finish stuff (ie nanobond) it'll probably have better surface hardness and UV protection.
 
  • Like
Reactions: macleanflood
  • Like
Reactions: macleanflood
FYI, there’s a 231J local over here from a 2000 XJ if you need it. Asking $200.

https://www.facebook.com/share/1kkTsfraVb/?mibextid=wwXIfr

I've got one sitting in my shop from a TJ. All I need to do is pull it apart and install my SYE. Which I probably should do and probably should replace the rear bearing and seal.

Or probably buy a JB conversions Super Short SYE. But then I'd probably need a new rear shaft.

And if I'm spending $500 on the wrong case and $350 on another driveshaft...like @Woodrow said I should just put in an Atlas.

So I just need the 231J to behave for a couple of years so I can save up.

-Mac