P0516 code and voltage gauge not working

[Thomas-2005-LJ]

Hello all.
Installed a brand new warn m8000s on my '05 LJ. Did everything as described in the instructions. It was cold when I installed it (20 degrees or so). While installing the rope, I noticed the aftermarket stereo and amp installed by previous owner powered down and the check gauges light came on. I talked to a well respected individual about this and he said the battery likely didn't have the CCA for all the accessories. I noticed the voltage gauge is no longer working and it has a p0516 code. The battery shows 14v when the Jeep is idling.
1. Could the winch taking too much of the voltage have caused the code?
2. Could the code or the winch have damaged the gauge?
3. Is it likely the electrical issue is in the PCM?

 

[pagrey]

What's most likely is messing with your already damaged battery cables made a bad situation worse. I'd start with a close inspection of the cables and grounds (not the winch cables).

 

[CharlesHS]

To add to what Pagrey posted above....
IF you find the battery cables/clamps are in poor condition; you should consider upgrading the cables.

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/

 

[Thomas-2005-LJ]

To add to what Pagrey posted above....
IF you find the battery cables/clamps are in poor condition; you should consider upgrading the cables.

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/

I removed all the cables from the battery and reinstalled them. I did a gauge check by pressing the trip button in, and the gauge only moves when it maxes out. Everything connection wise seems fine. The code had gone away after I reconnected everything. Will the codes automatically reset if the battery is disconnected, or does that indicate the issue is resolved. I'm new to this whole thing. I just bought it, and have only driven this Jeep once (home from the seller, 15 or so miles), and have it scheduled to have a full custom exhaust installed and gone over next week. Just looking to have all my ducks in a row so I can give the mechanic some concerns.

 

[CharlesHS]

Now that you have posted pictures of your battery and cable setup; I would just go thru ALL the cable connections checking for oxidation on the battery terminals and cable clamps and then ensure the clamps and terminals are tight.
IF you voltage gauge is indicating voltage and the code has gone away; then the electrical connection has been restored.

 

[Thomas-2005-LJ]

Now that you have posted pictures of your battery and cable setup; I would just go thru ALL the cable connections checking for oxidation on the battery terminals and cable clamps and then ensure the clamps and terminals are tight.
IF you voltage gauge is indicating voltage and the code has gone away; then the electrical connection has been restored.

Thank you for the help. The plan is to replace the current battery with an Optima yellow top group 34 AGM battery that has optional terminals to clean up the connections.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The plan is to replace the current battery with an Optima yellow top group 34 AGM battery that has optional terminals to clean up the connections.

Avoid Optima's batteries. Their previous sterling reputation is gone since they were purchased by Johnson Controls who moved their entire battery manufacturing line to Mexico. I had three Optimas die prematurely, I'll never buy another. Instead, just go with a good quality Group 34 battery, find the one with the best warranty. Or if you want the 'best', go with either an Odyssey or Northstar. Get one with dual battery posts so the winch can be connected directly to the connections on the front of the battery.

This is the Northstar I installed, it is the twin brother to the Odyssey I used to have. My Odyssey lasted over ten years. Even their cases are identical.

Even before Optima's quality crashed, you didn't get as much battery when the group sizes are the same.

A conventional AGM battery is on the left, Optima's version of an AGM is on the right. Optima's same group size batteries weighed about 20% less... less battery in the same group size.

 

[Thomas-2005-LJ]

Avoid Optima's batteries. Their previous sterling reputation is gone since they were purchased by Johnson Controls who moved their entire battery manufacturing line to Mexico. I had three Optimas die prematurely, I'll never buy another. Instead, just go with a good quality Group 34 battery, find the one with the best warranty. Or if you want the 'best', go with either an Odyssey or Northstar. Get one with dual battery posts so the winch can be connected directly to the connections on the front of the battery.

This is the Northstar I installed, it is the twin brother to the Odyssey I used to have. My Odyssey lasted over ten years. Even their cases are identical.

View attachment 312948

Even before Optima's quality crashed, you didn't get as much battery when the group sizes are the same.

A conventional AGM battery is on the left, Optima's version of an AGM is on the right. Optima's same group size batteries weighed about 20% less... less battery in the same group size.

View attachment 312949

This is the information that I need. I liked the face regarding the current connection image. I agree, it's a head turner lol. I really appreciate everyone's input. I'm glad I didn't order the Optima yet. I'll be sure to get one of the batteries you recommended. Do you recommend a new alternator also. I read a few things on older alternators not delivering a complete charge to AGM batteries. Not sure how accurate those comments are.

 

[pagrey]

If you don't want to break the bank on a battery O'reilly and Autozone have AGM group 34 batteries around $200 that are decent and you can also use a 34M from O'rielly for a bit less or the same battery at Sam's Club for about $130. The 34M will also have extra screw terminals for your accessories. You don't want to change how your alternator charges the battery, it is a perfect float charge for an AGM battery. Almost everybody on this forum with an AGM uses the stock setup trouble free.