Passenger side lower control arm shorter than drivers side

Bparrishlvx

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Feb 14, 2019
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Washington
I have a 2005 LJR I recently purchased and it had hit something straight in line with the front passenger wheel and bent the axle tube and upper/lower control arm back. The axle tube was pushed back about 1/2" from center-line and took it too a professional differential company and they straightened it. I was reluctant to do that just because of the likelihood it would not be perfect but after seeing what the guy did I was pretty confident the tube was straight. Now after getting the axle back under the jeep and I take measurements from a point on the frame rail to the zerk fitting on top of the knuckle the passenger side is shorter by 3/4" of an inch from the drivers side. The adjustable control arms are set to the same length on both sides.

Can somebody please verify for me that measuring from the same point on the frame to the zerk fitting should be equal on both sides?

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The tube maybe twisted, pull the wheels and measure the left and right ball joints with a digital level, mine are off by about 1.2 degrees so the zerks are at a different length to the frame. Try to use the lower control arm bolts at the front axle to the rear control arm to the frame bolts...
 
It’s more important that all four wheels are square to one another than if control arm lengths are the same just adjust your arms out or in to get is square. Or purchase adjustable arms if you don’t already have them.
 
It’s more important that all four wheels are square to one another than if control arm lengths are the same just adjust your arms out or in to get is square. Or purchase adjustable arms if you don’t already have them.
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You might check to see if you have camber bolts installedthat they are set the same as that could change it a bit as well. It’s not uncommon to have different length control arms to get things strait. If it bent an axle tube it probably bent some mounts as well
 
...measurements from a point on the frame rail to the zerk fitting on top of the knuckle...

I'm not sure what the "point on the frame" is, or even where it is, but I think the best place to be measuring is from the holes where the control arms bolt to the axle to the holes where the same control arms bolt to the frame.
 
As stated, lots of things can vary and still have the axle square to the frame. The best place to measure to and from for what we need is the middle bolt that holds the belly skid on. We've found that to be very accurate and far more accurate than any other feature on the frame.

Hang a string with a weight on it from the side of the frame and line it up with the middle, front edge, or rear edge of the bolt. Then butt the tape measure into the axle tube or largest diameter of the inner C where the tube goes into it and measure to the string.

Once that is known and the same for both sides, then you can start measuring other stuff to see what it messed up. The two inner C's are rotated about .2 degrees differently from each other from the factory to provide some cross caster. That automatically means you can't use any part of them to measure from or to except the center of the axis of rotation which is the middle of the tube.
 
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The tube maybe twisted, pull the wheels and measure the left and right ball joints with a digital level, mine are off by about 1.2 degrees so the zerks are at a different length to the frame. Try to use the lower control arm bolts at the front axle to the rear control arm to the frame bolts...

That is a possibility. The upper and lower control arms from center of bolt to center of are exactly the same length within a 1/32". My LJR does not have adjustable lower control arm bolts so it can't be that. Thanks for the replyand will check tonight.
 
It’s more important that all four wheels are square to one another than if control arm lengths are the same just adjust your arms out or in to get is square. Or purchase adjustable arms if you don’t already have them.

Understood front and rear axles need to be square rather than perfectly centered in the body/frame. The adjustable upper and lower control arms from center of bolt to center of are exactly the same length within a 1/32". My LJR does not have adjustable lower control arm bolts so it can't be that. The knuckle is 3/4" back on the passenger side vs. the driver side and the control arms are the same length!
 
I'm not sure what the "point on the frame" is, or even where it is, but I think the best place to be measuring is from the holes where the control arms bolt to the axle to the holes where the same control arms bolt to the frame.

Measuring from the a point (bolt, hole, etc) on the frame rail that is in the same location on both sides of the frame to the zerk fitting. The adjustable upper and lower control arms from center of bolt to center of are exactly the same length within a 1/32". My LJR does not have adjustable lower control arm bolts so it can't be that. Something seemsto be off with the knuckle. Maybe the tube is twisted as the first reply suggests. Will try and figure out tonight.
 
As stated, lots of things can vary and still have the axle square to the frame. The best place to measure to and from for what we need is the middle bolt that holds the belly skid on. We've found that to be very accurate and far more accurate than any other feature on the frame.

Hang a string with a weight on it from the side of the frame and line it up with the middle, front edge, or rear edge of the bolt. Then butt the tape measure into the axle tube or largest diameter of the inner C where the tube goes into it and measure to the string.

Once that is known and the same for both sides, then you can start measuring other stuff to see what it messed up. The two inner C's are rotated about .2 degrees differently from each other from the factory to provide some cross caster. That automatically means you can't use any part of them to measure from or to except the center of the axis of rotation which is the middle of the tube.
[/QUote

Inner C's?