Patches, the '02 TJ

Jankoid

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2019
Messages
42
Location
Albemarle, NC
Hi folks, new to this forum. Definitely not new to TJs though. Some of you may recognize my screen name from various other forums. Figured the best way to introduce myself would be to start a build thread.

First I'll explain the title. Every Jeep needs a name, right? This Jeep is called Patches. Why such a strange name? Because it's "patched" together from multiple wrecked Jeeps. My dad called it that one day and it stuck.

In early 2012 I purchased 2 wrecked '02 TJs. The first had been rolled, ruining the tub, but the frame was straight. The second had extensive frame damage, but a perfect body. Somebody thought it was a dune buggy and aired it out, ripping the axles out from under it. It had a full Metalcloak fender setup and a Rubi Express long arm. I think arched Metalcloaks are ugly, so I ditched those immediately.

Good frame (you can't tell from this picture, but the back of the tub and cage are seriously f'ed up):

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Good body:

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I spent a month working nights and weekends (I was still in school at the time) putting the two Jeeps together into one relatively stock Jeep. The plan at the time was to have a very mild daily driver that I could carry to Uwharrie (local trail system, very mild) on the weekends. That lasted about 6 months...

Initial setup:

Stock suspension
1.25" BL and 1" MML
Rubi Express belly skid
4.10 gears
Rubi Dana 44 rear axle w/ e locker
4 cyl front lp30 open
Trail Gear sliders
31" all terrains

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That lasted for 6 months or so. Go figure. Decided I wanted it to be a bit more capable. It was still mild, but no longer a daily driver since I had purchased a very nice Comanche to daily. Since it still had the long arm skid, I decided to reinstall the front long arms. The rear got a set of adjustable short arms. I lifted it 2 inches, gave it some additional armor (oil pan skid, control arm skids, diff covers), added a used Detroit Truetrac to the front axle, and some 33" MTs that I had lying around. A few months after that I bumped it up to 35s and added another couple inches of lift.

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That takes us to 2014, when I decided to get serious with it. Bought a used Genright Alien tank, and stretched the rear 8 inches. Also swapped the axles for a XJ hp30 and a non-rubi Dana 44 (I used the rubi44 in a stock rubi I was flipping).

101" wheelbase
Hp30 front, ARB, chromos, 4.88s
Dana 44 rear, 33 spline Detroit, chromos, 4.88s
Currie steering
JKS front trackbar
Poison Spyder fenders (old style)
Stout Fab custom cut corners
Genright comp flares

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That almost gets us up to date. I've done a few things to it here and there over the years. Added a cage, swapped in a 241 transfer case, front antirock, and some other stuff I can't think of right now. I'll put together a full build list later. Mostly I've just wheeled the piss out of it the last few years (yet I never seem to get any picture evidence of it). I have a couple more updates, and I'm about to start a couple big new mods, but I'll get to those in future posts.
 
I always enjoy when I see a familiar username get on-board over here!

That's a very cool project. I think the part that excites me the most is when I see the stretched wheelbase and the longer driveshaft in the rear. With the stock wheelbase, that short little driveshaft on the stock setup becomes such a limiting factor, not to mention how steep the driveline angles can start to get.

It looks like you've "patched together" quite the capable rig there!
 
With the stock wheelbase, that short little driveshaft on the stock setup becomes such a limiting factor, not to mention how steep the driveline angles can start to get.

That was one of the excuses I used to justify the stretch. I had a rear end vibe from the driveshaft angle, so I either needed a super short SYE (the 231 it had at the time just had a standard SYE), or a wheelbase stretch. Plus I found a really good deal on the stretch tank, so I figured "why not?"
 
That was one of the excuses I used to justify the stretch. I had a rear end vibe from the driveshaft angle, so I either needed a super short SYE (the 231 it had at the time just had a standard SYE), or a wheelbase stretch. Plus I found a really good deal on the stretch tank, so I figured "why not?"

I know what you mean. With a 4" lift on mine, 35s, and a tummy tuck, the rear driveshaft angle is so extreme that I can very much understand why a stretch would be beneficial. It really makes you appreciate the extra 12" the LJ has, and that longer driveshaft.

Mine has the stretch tank on it (GenRight), which I picked up for 20% off during one of their sales. Can't complain about that.
 
When I did the stretch years ago I installed a set of old-style Poison Spyder tube fenders. I never really liked them, but I bought them used for very cheap, so I put up with them. Then Genright had a Black Friday sale and I ended up getting their highlines and aluminum inner fenders $250 off retail. Time to upgrade.

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That's the fiberglass version of the AEV hood I see all over eBay, right?

How do you like it? I'm curious to know what the final fit ends up being like and whether there are any bulging gaps, as well as the overall quality of the hood.

Actually, I know a lot of people have been wondering about this.
 
That's the fiberglass version of the AEV hood I see all over eBay, right?

How do you like it? I'm curious to know what the final fit ends up being like and whether there are any bulging gaps, as well as the overall quality of the hood.

Actually, I know a lot of people have been wondering about this.

Correct, it's a Duraflex hood. The quality is decent.

Fitment was excellent, lines up with the grille and fenders exactly like it should. I was actually very impressed with it there.

It did require some prep work. It was a little wavy in some places and needed some heavy sanding to get it all smoothed out. Also the bottom edges were a bit rough and needed body filler added. It's about what I expected from an aftermarket fiberglass hood. It's nothing difficult for a decent body man, but it does require some attention. I do body work for a living, so obviously that was no big deal for me.

The big issue with it is the vent. They did a terrible job on that part. They just included a crappy piece of wire mesh that was held on by a few pieces of bailing wire that were glassed into the hood. I never took a picture of it, but it was really janky. I had a sheet of plastic honeycomb-looking stuff (don't even really know what to call it) that I cut into the correct shape and actually glued it to the bottom side of the hood. I think it ended up looking really good.

None of the holes come pre-drilled. There are small indentations showing you where to drill though. The only one that is difficult if the washer nozzle hole. That one took some patience. Everything else was easy.

Overall I'm happy with the quality of it. It was very pricey at $570 though. Is it worth that? That depends. Obviously it is much cheaper to just modify the stock hood, but I've always loved the looks of the AEV hood, so I was willing to spend some money to get that look. Also I wanted the fiberglass hood because this Jeep is a bit of a pig and I'm trying to put it on a diet. The stock hood weighs 38 pounds, the Duraflex hood only weighs 17. I'm very happy with it and would definitely order it again if I had to. Just know going in that it's an aftermarket knockoff of an aftermarket part, you're going to have to spend some time with it.
 
Yep, that's what I expected from that hood. I don't think I've ever had an experience with any fiberglass replacement body part where it was 100% perfect and ready to paint as soon as it came out of the box. They always required a good amount of prep work due to waves and uneven areas.

The good part though is that at least it fits right and the body gaps aren't way off.

An AEV hood would be cool, but they don't make those anymore, and when they do come up for sale, they are regularly around $3000 just for the hood (and they sell within a day).

I also know what you mean with the way they hold that wire on. I've seen that done on other parts before as well, and it leaves a lot to be desired.

Anyhow, I look forward to seeing what it looks like once it's all done and painted. I'm a big fan of the AEV hood myself.
 
Good to know on the hood. I suspected as much.

Im shitty at body work, I dont know what a shop would charge to fix the imperfections and paint one. I keep my eyes open for a TJ hood, the one I have now is fine, but the cuts are far from perfect.
 
Nice, you did what I always wanted to do and painted the fenders but did the flare portion in black. Looks really good that way!
 
Oh, I see it now. It's the aluminum panel you put over them that's body matched!

There ya go! I wanted it to look like I color matched part of the fender though. I was tired of the completely color matched armor, but I don't really care for all-black fenders, so this was a good compromise. Turned out great, plus it armored a vulnerable section of the tub. Win win!
 
There ya go! I wanted it to look like I color matched part of the fender though. I was tired of the completely color matched armor, but I don't really care for all-black fenders, so this was a good compromise. Turned out great, plus it armored a vulnerable section of the tub. Win win!

I agree, win win! It looks great, and it separates it from all those other TJs that are running around with entirely black tube fenders (or raw aluminum), which I've always thought looks odd.
 
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