Pcoplin's TJ

Shop looks dope! You're a few years ahead of me in jeep build and garage space but I want to exactly that. Build a shop with a lift and wood stove. Also as a fellow 6ohno owner I feel your pain. Hahaha.
 
Finally got the shop done enough I can work on some stuff. Still don't have any tables or benches built yet.

Got a new TIG welder and am teaching myself to weld aluminum. Coming along okay.

Hoping to race in the upcoming YORR race in May. Have to make a cell box and rear firewall. The fuel cell from Goatbuilt, and takes a stock GM pump. I also need to build a remote filler.
 

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Finally got the shop done enough I can work on some stuff. Still don't have any tables or benches built yet.

Got a new TIG welder and am teaching myself to weld aluminum. Coming along okay.

Hoping to race in the upcoming YORR race in May. Have to make a cell box and rear firewall. The fuel cell from Goatbuilt, and takes a stock GM pump. I also need to build a remote filler.
What tig did you get? I can get an aluminum spool for my Hobart mig welder or I could get a tig setup. I want to make an aluminum front console and an aluminum rear cargo box. Why did you go tig over mig?
 
What tig did you get? I can get an aluminum spool for my Hobart mig welder or I could get a tig setup. I want to make an aluminum front console and an aluminum rear cargo box. Why did you go tig over mig?
Tig is an extremely steep learning curve, but the results are a stronger and cleaner weld. Spool on mig will get messy, but you can make it good with enough practice and the correct settings. @pcoplin make sure that aluminum is getting proper prep, looks a little dirty. Stainless steel wire brush and plenty of acetone after will make it play nicer under the cup.
 
What tig did you get? I can get an aluminum spool for my Hobart mig welder or I could get a tig setup. I want to make an aluminum front console and an aluminum rear cargo box. Why did you go tig over mig?
I got an AHP 201XD. I was hoping to get the new Vulcan 205 but it's delayed until May or longer now. SO far it welds very well for me. The foot pedal has been updated. But the bummer is the Rotoflex torch doesnt take standard 17 consumables, so I can't try my new gas lens kit I got. I'll upgrade the torch to a CK flex head here when I get better. I suspect it's the same base unit as the Everlast and HF.

You will definitely want a TIG for that. Spool guns aren't clean and precise enough IMO for work like you're talking.



Tig is an extremely steep learning curve, but the results are a stronger and cleaner weld. Spool on mig will get messy, but you can make it good with enough practice and the correct settings. @pcoplin make sure that aluminum is getting proper prep, looks a little dirty. Stainless steel wire brush and plenty of acetone after will make it play nicer under the cup.

I wouldn't call it extremely steep, just takes a steady hand. I'm digging it, I like how precise it is.
The weld area above was cleaned very well, you can see the line I used a brush, and I use alcohol, not acetone. I'll clean up the box when I'm done fabbing.

I've been practicing on little coupons, and I can get into the a perfect position. Welding this box was tough because I was standing, and didn't have a TIG Finger yet. I was pretty proud to be able to weld whole sides of the box in on pass. The one above was one pass with no filler. I used filler on some of the other edges, playing around.
 
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I got an AHP 201XD. I was hoping to get the new Vulcan 205 but it's delayed until May or longer now. SO far it welds very well for me. The foot pedal has been updated. But the bummer is the Rotoflex torch doesnt take standard 17 consumables, so I can't try my new gas lens kit I got. I'll upgrade the torch to a CK flex head here when I get better. I suspect it's the same base unit as the Everlast and HF.

You will definitely want a TIG for that. Spool guns aren't clean and precise enough IMO for work like you're talking.





I wouldn't call it extremely steep, just takes a steady hand. I'm digging it, I like how precise it is.
The weld area above was cleaned very well, you can see the line I used a brush, and I use alcohol, not acetone. I'll clean up the box when I'm done fabbing.

I've been practicing on little coupons, and I can get into the a perfect position. Welding this box was tough because I was standing, and didn't have a TIG Finger yet. I was pretty proud to be able to weld whole sides of the box in on pass. The one above was one pass with no filler. I used filler on some of the other edges, playing around.
Looks good for a fusion pass, I’m not sure the exact stresses that a fuel cell encounters, but if you’re not going to use filler that create a situation where the weld on that joint is now weaker than the parent material. On low stress (artwork and such) fusion works great, but keep in mind that fusion welding only makes it the joint weaker, not stronger like what is required to pass a bend test (parent material breaks before weld does). Background (if you care/if it matters) I used to do sanitary tig jobs.
 
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Looks good for a fusion pass, I’m not sure the exact stresses that a fuel cell encounters, but if you’re not going to use filler that create a situation where the weld on that joint is now weaker than the parent material. On low stress (artwork and such) fusion works great, but keep in mind that fusion welding only makes it the joint weaker, not stronger like what is required to pass a bend test (parent material breaks before weld does). Background (if you care/if it matters) I used to do sanitary tig jobs.


Good info, thanks. This is a box that holds a cell bladder, not a fuel cell itself. I'll keep in mind the strength issue as I learn on. :D
 
Good info, thanks. This is a box that holds a cell bladder, not a fuel cell itself. I'll keep in mind the strength issue as I learn on. :D
No problem! I have a lot to learn about suspension from you. That box will be clean and work nicely for holding the tank! Also, congrats on getting the shop together.
 
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Got the box all done and installed. Need to rework the fill plate to take a remote fill. Also redo the tire carrier for trail wheeling: to take the tailgate and mount a cooler over the cell.


And got the last bit of insulation done on the shop. Almost ready for business. :D

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Haven't done much with the TJ. Raced it a bit locally. I'm about ready to put front bypasses on, rework the middle portion of the frame to fully tube it out to make it easier to work on. I'll post up the full build on here.

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Been working on a JK project, now that the second kiddo is turning three. Bought a JK from a buddy without the front axle, it had a RockJock on it, but I'm too cheap and I like to build stuff.

Using Artec's swap truss, it's a neat piece of hardware. I've always build everything and this made it easy. Using Artec's high steer arms also. Fox 2.5 IBPs with DSC for shocks.


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I got the axle in, was not happy with the Rock Crawler long arm geometry. So I reworked the frame side mounts using pieces from Barnes. Had to move the trackbar frame mount I had made.

Now just need to rework the rear 3 Link geometry. Once I sell some stuff I'll be swapping in a Hemi.

I'll either be listing the TJ for sale, or stripping it down and selling the axles and tcase, then stripping down to almost nothing to rebuild the chassis from 2 inch chromo and panelize it.

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I'll either be listing the TJ for sale, or stripping it down and selling the axles and tcase, then stripping down to almost nothing to rebuild the chassis from 2 inch chromo and panelize it.
Too much damage, or liking the additional space of the JK?
 
Too much damage, or liking the additional space of the JK?
No, when I built it, the Ultra4 rules stated it needed an OEM frame. Now it just states rectangular, so I can build a nice belly and get better suspension geometry.

It's also a little heavy for the 1.75 weight rating, so I want to use 2inch, and also panelize it to be able to strip to work on.
 
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No, when I built it, the Ultra4 rules stated it needed an OEM frame. Now it just states rectangular, so I can build a nice belly and get better suspension geometry.

It's also a little heavy for the 1.75 weight rating, so I want to use 2inch, and also panelize it to be able to strip to work on.
That will be nicer to work on. I thought about ways to section apart my build but I couldn't figure out any good way while still staying full body (which I wanted to keep full body on this build).
 
That will be nicer to work on. I thought about ways to section apart my build but I couldn't figure out any good way while still staying full body (which I wanted to keep full body on this build).
The more I wheel it the more I smash it, starting to get a bit rough. Some corner armor would clean it right up but that just adds weight. I'll just cut it off. :D

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