Yup, even if he's successful.Godspeed Jeep friend (I foresee hubs in your future)
Please help me solve the oscillating vibration crisis by providing some basic info on your Jeep
- Thread starter freedom_in_4low
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Mine is still present. I don't believe them to be removable...kinda like a harmonic damper crank pulley. We'll see though. Parts are showing up tomorrow to rebuild my 241 due to a bad front output bearing (and stretched chain, most likely).
OEM didn't use a double carden rear driveshaft...so its aftermarket. Who knows who's though.
OP
Never had one so I wasn't sure if it's part of the yoke flange, pressed onto the shaft in front of the flange, or what, and I could see how changing it out to a yoke might be a 241 mod to get more driveshaft length. This response sounds like the dampener is indeed tegrated in the yoke flange such that running something like a 1310 yoke gets rid of the dampener...
Mine is still present as well. I believe to remove it, you have to press it off the shaft, meaning you have to disassemble the transfer case.
I've thought about cutting it off, but it has a 50/50 shot of making it worse vs better.
No reason you couldn't drill holes in it to make it lighter and higher resonant frequency or do the opposite and add weight to make it a lower resonant frequency.
A shorter output shaft could go a long way to improving driveline angles. That said, I know of exactly zero kits, so I suspect it would be custom fabrication.
I believe it has a rubber center isolator just like the harmonic damper on the engine, so theoretically it will fail eventually.
It's just an assembled output flange. Comes off just like any other output. Swapping to a regular output does make the driveshaft a touch longer or put another way by maybe 2 inches.
Biggest thing is make sure you get an output specific to this case. I am currently running a jb conversions 1310 output. I snagged the damper for when I regear to try out if I developed vibes.
I need to clean my workbench
Biggest thing is make sure you get an output specific to this case. I am currently running a jb conversions 1310 output. I snagged the damper for when I regear to try out if I developed vibes.
I need to clean my workbench
There was some discussion on the forum and the consensus was not positive. I remember seeing a lot of complaints their FB page.
I will try and post the earlier discussion link here.
edit: found it - https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-locking-hub-conversion-kit.16093/post-381397
OP
As someone who's never laid hands on either one, what about that photo indicates it's a Ram Man conversion vs the standard conversion with a Warn hub?
OP
The fact that it is done on the factory 5x4.5 wheel. They were the only people offering that AFAIK. Most installers would have some concern with the wheel strength/integrity drilling that out so close to the lugs ...
The facebook comments .. and the lack of responses to any of them is quite telling. BBB page too. Best to stay away, I think.
https://www.bbb.org/us/tx/fort-worth/profile/brake-service/the-ram-man-0825-235980452
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I replaced the transmission mount on mine recently and was able to drive it up to 70+ today for the first time since.
It has noticeably less vibrations and the harmonic seems to be gone. I had it up near 80 with less vibration than I previously had at lower speeds. I'll have the tires balanced in the next week and see if that further improves the ride at highway speeds.
I also changed the transfer case fluid while I had the skid off but I doubt that had any effect. I noticed when putting the skid back on with the new transmission mount that I had to lift the transmission further to get the skid plate back up into position. I suspect the old mount was allowing the driveline to sag and affecting the angle of the shafts. This may not provide any help here except removing an outlier from the data.