POR-15 prep
- Thread starter MrBClark
- Start date
So I finished one half of my frame. Took me forever. Had to smack all the loose stuff off then wire wheel it. I also had my friend help with an angle grinder in some areas. Decreased it and used the metal prep. How does this look? I now need to do the other side and clean the inside of the frame. Any advice on that? I do not want to drain holes because of the structuaral integrity but I do have those holes that were cut for the t case drop. Could I use those in some way?That area looks like you have a LOT of prep work to do
Fortunately it does appear to be surface rust and not frame rot from what I can tell. It's just really bad surface rust.
Any advice on how to? I don't want to drill holes but I do have those holes when the dropped the tcase.
It's not nice and smooth. Did you get all the rust off first, or was there just a ton of pitting and uneven areas due to the rust you removed? Either way, getting the inside isn't really possible. Your best bet is to simple clean out the inside with a pressure washer and then use Eastwood Internal Frame Coating on the inside.
Yes it was fairly pitted. It is much smoother then it shows on the picture actually but it was pitted as well. I did the best I could to remove all the rust. Even used an angle grinder in areas. Should I use a magnet to remove bigger chunks from the inside then rinse it the best I can? I was thinking fluid film over the Eastwood because of price but what do you think?
Use a pressure washer. That will blast anything that is loose outside of the frame. I wouldn't do it without pressure washing it first.
I'm sure Fluid Film would work just as well as long as you applied it a number of times a year. I believe that Eastwood is a permanent coating though, so it's a one time thing (I think).
I noticed that when I hammered the frame for the outside, I knocked off a lot of crap on the inside. Should i remove as much as a can with a magnet then pressure wash the inside? Sorry, I'm new to this stuff.
You're literally just wasting your time with a magnet. A high powered 3000 psi or more gas pressure washer will get ANY loose material out of the frame. Anything a magnet would and much more.
If a lot of stuff is flaking off when hit by a hammer, I would use some sort of mechanical device to clean the inside and use an air hose and shop vac to remove the debris before pressure washing. I used a piece of steel braided cable. I untwisted a few inches of the cable end and added a couple of small bolts and nuts to spin around and knock any loose stuff off before cleaning.
X2 on this. We did a frame like this awhile back and the pressure washer was the ticket for the inside...along with a few judiciously placed drainage holes. I like the rotating-pattern nozzle attachments best; makes it easy to hit everything. I've also used that Eastwood inside-the-frame stuff before, and it's pretty cool; can't speak to longevity, but it goes on well.
You said you don't want drill holes but you probably should. Unmitigated rust is worse for structural integrity than a few conservatively sized and strategically placed holes. You need both drainage and access for cleaning and product application.
Pressure washers and compressors as suggested help but you should still use some kind of mechanical method. This video shows one way to do that. Even that will miss the corners.
Use a boroscope attached to your phone to check your work.
How do you plan to get POR 15 into the frame? Something made for internal frame coating is probably better. Look at Eastwood Internal Frame Coating or similar. Even then you probably won't get excellent coverage so consider finishing with cavity wax. It seems to be the new thing for both restorers and OEMs. Again, use a boroscope to check your work.
Could I use the holes in the side that are already there in some way? The ones that are cut for the t case drop? I really want to drain holes but am just scared of seeing how thin the metal may be. I could probably do one in by the front tire, not the rear
Yea, obviously use every existing hole. Get a boroscope and it should become fairly obvious where you have rust, mud, sand, and other stuff inside the frame and what you need to do for access.
So you don't want to know whether or not there's a problem? Not looking isn't going to automatigally make the metal thicker...
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