Question on outboarding rear shocks

NskLJ

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I have ordered the shocks to proceed with outboarding the rears. I am wondering if the inner fender can be modified to go back in or what has anyone done to protect the evap components on the right side?
 
I have ordered the shocks to proceed with outboarding the rears. I am wondering if the inner fender can be modified to go back in or what has anyone done to protect the evap components on the right side?

The inner plastic fender liner can go back in. I've never seen it done where it doesn't look like total crap. The emissions stuff can easily have a shield made that bolts up to protect using the existing bits and frame-work that are there.
1657544961955.png
 
The inner plastic fender liner can go back in. I've never seen it done where it doesn't look like total crap. The emissions stuff can easily have a shield made that bolts up to protect using the existing bits and frame-work that are there.
View attachment 342144

Thank you, I was thinking something like that could be done. I was also thinking of making measurements before doing any work then try to cut the inner fender around the tower and reservoir but I don’t think you could get it back in or it would not hold shape.
 
The inner plastic fender liner can go back in. I've never seen it done where it doesn't look like total crap. The emissions stuff can easily have a shield made that bolts up to protect using the existing bits and frame-work that are there.
View attachment 342144

There is a lot of good detail in this photo, and you always make it look super clean. There is a lot of small particulars in the outboarding (both front and rear) and outboarding by itself doesn't necessarily guarantee good performance unless care is taken everywhere.

It is hard to see from this photo but my towers are angled back far enough that the rear top edge of the tower protrudes a little bit into that area where the emissions stuff lives. It took me a while to understand, but I now know why this was done in mine.

PXL_20220711_155205540.jpg



PXL_20220711_161205529.jpg
 
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@psrivats is your mount back further due to the reAr track bar bracket? I am still running a rear track bar but I could move the bracket to the inside of the frame without too much trouble. I am still running a short arm but my upgrade to the mid arm.
 
@psrivats is your mount back further due to the reAr track bar bracket? I am still running a rear track bar but I could move the bracket to the inside of the frame without too much trouble. I am still running a short arm but my upgrade to the mid arm.

Yes - I have a midarm setup that has a rear trackbar. There are other things about my setup that is not relevant here.

The Savvy midarm setup is *much* nicer and cleaner... Blaine has thought through everything.
 
@psrivats is your mount back further due to the reAr track bar bracket? I am still running a rear track bar but I could move the bracket to the inside of the frame without too much trouble. I am still running a short arm but my upgrade to the mid arm.

We never leave the trackbar bracket on the outside of the frame and let it dictate where the shock goes. Others may not follow that rule for whatever reason.
 
We never leave the trackbar bracket on the outside of the frame and let it dictate where the shock goes. Others may not follow that rule for whatever reason.

Do you fabricate a new one or do you use a off the shelf one ?
 
New one from 2" x 3/16" rectangular tube with one face cut off and the other face butts into the back of the new shock mount.

Just to add a visual......
This is what mine looked like, before trimming and fitting the the back of the shock tower.

BRACKET.jpg
 
I obviously need to paint still, but here's the one we did on mine a few months back.

View attachment 342430

Great thanks for the picture. I like to have everything on hand before I start a project. So that is just welded to the crossmember, frame and the shock tower where it hangs down below the frame? I looks like you cut a bunch off the track bar.
 
Great thanks for the picture. I like to have everything on hand before I start a project. So that is just welded to the crossmember, frame and the shock tower where it hangs down below the frame? I looks like you cut a bunch off the track bar.

Done correctly with a raised axle side trackbar mount, you shorten it less than 3/4" typically. If you look at the crossmember for the tank and shocks, there are two tabs that stick forward next to the frame. That is the forward face of the new trackbar mount. We cope them to fit that and get as much surface area on weld that we can.
 
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Great thanks for the picture. I like to have everything on hand before I start a project. So that is just welded to the crossmember, frame and the shock tower where it hangs down below the frame? I looks like you cut a bunch off the track bar.

I think we cut 5/8" off my trackbar tube - the shank on the joint housing didn't need to be touched. I doubt we did it to the quality Blaine does, but as he said we coped it to sit against the cross member. It took a few tacks and cycles to make sure everything cleared. Mine has a business card or so of clearance at the closest parts.
 
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I just got under there and looked at it, a little hard to see with everything in there. But once I get the tank shocks and springs out of it should not be a problem. I can cut the threaded end if needed ( I have about 1” of threads showing) and clean up the threads. I am still a month or two out from doing this project. I have a trip next month to Ouray for a week. I will tackle this when I get back. I have the shocks and a Saavy gas tank skid sitting in the garage but need to order the brake flip kit and shock towers.
 
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