Questions about lift

Irishguy

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 7, 2018
Messages
239
Location
Lick Skillet, AL
When I bought this latest Jeep and 1997 Sport 4.0 it came with tons of extra stuff that I have sold off to recoup some of my investment. One of the extras that it came with was a set of new ProComp 2" lift springs and a set of Moog front swaybar end links. I want to install the springs and I know these things from reading on here:

1. I know I will need to do something about my bumpstops. Some recommend using a space on the bottom, but my bumpstops are toast and I was going to order new ones, so I was thinking about the Daystar extended bumpstops. Should I go with the ones that press in the cups or the ones that bolt in? I like the idea of the bolt in. (PS: I know I need to cycle the suspension to see where to cut the bumpstops.)

2. Could the Moog swaybar end links be extended and do I need to install them if my OEM ones look fine?

3. I know from my last Jeep lift installation that I will probably have to lower the transfer case.

4. I know that some people install adjustable track bars, but I may hold off on that.

5. The Jeep currently has some nice Bilstein shocks on it and it rides and handles well. I know the Rancho shocks are recommended around here, but do I need to change out the shocks for a 2" lift if I'm happy with the ones I have?

7. I am currently running Cooper AT3 265/75r15s and plan on keeping that size tire for the near future.
 
To answer your questions:

1) The Daystar bumpstops should be avoided at all costs. Those are bump stops that try to replace the jounce bumper and cause all sorts of issues. Bump stops should always be mounted to the bottom spring perch, and all you need for bump stops are hockey pucks with the centers drilled out. It's as simple as that, literally.

2) Yes, you could extend factory sway bar links if you know how to weld, but why bother? Disconnects are cheap.

5) Are your current shocks the right ones for a 2" lift? If so, keep them. As long as you like them, that's all that matters.
 
To answer your questions:

1) The Daystar bumpstops should be avoided at all costs. Those are bump stops that try to replace the jounce bumper and cause all sorts of issues. Bump stops should always be mounted to the bottom spring perch, and all you need for bump stops are hockey pucks with the centers drilled out. It's as simple as that, literally.

2) Yes, you could extend factory sway bar links if you know how to weld, but why bother? Disconnects are cheap.

5) Are your current shocks the right ones for a 2" lift? If so, keep them. As long as you like them, that's all that matters.

Thanks for the reply Chris.

My current Jounce bumpers are worn out. So I'll just replace those with new OEM ones, and search for hockey pucks. (Not a lot of hockey pucks floating around in Lick Skillet, AL. :D )

I wonder how I would know if the Bilsteins are OK for the 2" lift. I'm not opposed to Getting a new set of Rancho RS5000x shocks for $200, but I hate to just toss the Bilsteins. I actually like them.
 
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Thanks for the reply Chris.

My current Jounce bumpers are worn out. So I'll just replace those with new OEM ones, and search for hockey pucks. (Not a lot of hockey pucks floating around in Lick Skillet, AL. :D )

I wonder how I would know if the Bilsteins are OK for the 2" lift. I'm not opposed to Getting a new set of Rancho RS5000x shocks for $200, but I hate to just toss the Bilsteins. I actually like them.

Do you currently have a lift now or is it stock height? If it’s stock height, chances are the Bilsteins will not work for a 2” lift.

Also, look on the shock bodies and they should have part numbers on them. If you get the part numbers and share them here, we can tell you pretty easily if they are suitable for a 2” lift.
 
Measure the exposed shock shaft at the normal ride height. Then disconnect the shock and measure the total shock shaft. The shock's travel should be divided in half at ride height.
 
Then I have a follow up question:

How do the Rancho shocks work that say: 0" to 2" of lift? Those are the ones im considering buying, but how are they optimal at such a range of ride heights?
 
That's a very perceptive question.

The reason I ask that is: If the Ranchos are good for 0"-2" then the Bilsteins that are already on there should be good for that range too... Right? I mean they are shocks that take up the same space in the suspension.

Edit: So I got up under there and looked, so I should be good for 0" - 2" of lift the shocks I have are the Bilstein 5100 series.
 
The reason I ask that is: If the Ranchos are good for 0"-2" then the Bilsteins that are already on there should be good for that range too... Right? I mean they are shocks that take up the same space in the suspension.

Edit: So I got up under there and looked, so I should be good for 0" - 2" of lift the shocks I have are the Bilstein 5100 series.

Generally speaking, a shock's travel should be divided in half at the normal ride height. The closer you can get to that, the better.
 
Generally speaking, a shock's travel should be divided in half at the normal ride height. The closer you can get to that, the better.

Right, but in the existing shocks I have (Bilstein 5100) and the Ranchos they have either 0"-2" or 2" to 3" or something like that.
 
Right, but in the existing shocks I have (Bilstein 5100) and the Ranchos they have either 0"-2" or 2" to 3" or something like that.

You need to get the compressed and extended lengths of the shocks you want to compare.
 
So I looked up the Bilsteins I currently have on the Jeep. Surplus Shocks states that they are designed for 0" to 2" of lift. So I should be OK.

So did you look up the compressed and extended lengths?
 
I am relaxed. You are the one who is being arrogant because you seem to know more about a Jeep suspension than someone else. But if doing so makes you feel better about yourself then I wish you the best.
I’m fine. I just thought the questions @jjvw asked you were obviously not what you were thinking/doing. I’m not sure why you think I know more about Jeep suspension.
Now, are you going to get the extended/compressed length of your shock and up/down measurement so you can find out if the shock will work with the setup?