Questions about my 1998 TJ

TmLIsMe14

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Oct 5, 2019
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Connecticut
Hey everyone I have some questions about my TJ. I have a 98 TJ 4.0 sport 5 speed.

I'm planning to change my stock headlight's and my stock fog lights to LEDs, particularly the kc variant. The gravity headlights and the gravity fog lights. My question is: are these plug and play? Or do I need something else that would make these work with the stock wiring?

For the people that have these specfic headlights and fog lights my question is are these heated? Are these good for snow, meaning will they melt snow that accumulated in the lens?

My second question is about my rear axle, my TJ sport has a Dana 35 with the 3.73 gear ratio. I don't do much offroading so I feel that I need a locker, so I am thinking about going with an lsd. Do I need a whole new axel? How does this work for a non lsd axel? Can I just buy an aftermarket lsd (if so please recommend me some) and have my mechanic install it? Is there a better option then an lsd? My mechanic said that my TJ is a posi rear, but my friend tells me that my TJ is an open diff. I'm not sure who is right, so I will ask the Jeep community. What do I need to do to install an lsd in my TJ? I don't do much offroading, I mostly do street driving. I live in the Northeast of the USA, so snow happens during winter, thinking that I would benefit more with an lsd.

The third question is about tires, I currently have 31x10.50r15 Cooper stt pros on my Jeep with spacers. My Jeep cans with the spacers installed when I purchased my Jeep. I actually didn't know this until a user on this form mentioned it when I posted a picture of my Jeep. When I found out that I had spacers my Jeep was at the mechanic getting looked at, so I called my mechanic to see if my wheels would fit on the Jeep with out the spacers. My mechanic told me that the studs in the hub assembly were too short to mount the wheels back on. I was told that I would need to purchase new studs around the whole Jeep to fit them.

Ideally I want to keep my rims and get new tires. So my question about tires will be here. I am looking for an all terrain tire that is good for snow. In the past when I had my WJ the gyw duratrac tires just released and had reviews of having weak sidewalls. I am thinking that I still want to go with the duratrac but I would like to hear the Jeep community experiences with other all terrain tires. I'm looking for an all terrain that's quieter than my current stt pros, yet also a tire that is good in the off-road scene with good snow performance, yet not a dedicated winter tire. I guess a snowflakes tire would be what I am looking for. Does anyone currently know of a new all terrain in the works? I.e the testing stage.

The fourth question that I have is about the 4x4 system on my TJ. My current transfer case only has 3 settings, 2wd, part-time and 4 low. Would I gain any benefit in getting the transfer case with the 4th option, full-time 4wd? Can that transfer case bolt directly to my current transmission? Is it a bad idea?

I only have a few questions about my cluster for my TJ. My cluster has lights that are in use but don't do anything to my knowledge and I have done lights on my cluster that light up for the self check, but other than that do not work otherwise. What I mean by that is, my seatbelt light turns on when I start my Jeep but that's it. I can leave the seatbelt unbuckled and the light won't come on, when when testing while driving. My windshield washer fluid light does not indicate if I have a low washer fluid level. I have a picture of a key that lights up when I first start my Jeep, but I think that is for the security key, which I am pretty sure that I don't have. The cluster also has cruise control, and my steering wheel has cruise control, controls but I'm not entirely sure how that would work with a manual transmission.

As for the blinkers, I could of sworn that my 92 Cherokee had this feature but I can't remember. My TJ, does not have this feature. The feature I am talking about is the blinker turning off automatically when finishing a turn. Am I going crazy or do 98 sport wranglers not have this feature?

One more for the cluster, I so far have been through 2 clusters that had this problem, right now I'm on my third cluster. I swapped out all the bulbs on my cluster with LEDs that I purchased from superbrightleds. From what I could find were the bulbs I needed just the the feature needed, which is the dimmable option. After I had changed out my bulbs on my first cluster with LEDs I found that oneside the illuminated parts for the oil pressure, tempature and halfof the speedo burnt out. I took it apart and found a burnt trace, I could repair it myself. I purchased a use a circuit board pen to try to fix the trace on the PCB. I had no success in making it work again. I bought a new cluster and swapped the bulbs. The same trace burnt again. I thought that LEDs were supposed to draw less current, so I'm unsure why these LEDs are destroying that one specific trace in that one area. Does anyone have experience with this problem?

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I also have a 98 Sport and I have noticed the turning signal will not auto reset unless you make a fairly sharp turn.
 
Hi TM.

I have a '98 Sahara with a 5 speed and NP231 transfer case that has 4WD Hi, N, 4WD Low. I have owned it since new, and it has more than 267k miles, mostly put on by myself. I will try and answer your questions one by one.

1. Head and Fog lights: Generally, if you purchase these from a Jeep supplier website, they will include a wiring conversion system or will have a recommended wiring kit. The lights you are referencing are not heated. They may ice in the winter during severe conditions. Truck Lites and JW Speaker have LED lights with lens heaters that are activated below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, and these may be better for your needs.

2. LSD-your TJ likely has open diffs, for sure at the front and a LSD was optional on the Dana 35 rear. You will need either a locker or a LSD after you check your VIN for the build specs. You should be able to change the carrier out to a LSD-Dana Spicer has the 74210X, plus there are other manufacturers. Google Dana 35 LSD. I don't know how a LSD would impact your 4WD operation, and perhaps others can chime in.

3. Spacers-Generally, spacers require shorter studs for mounting-the OEM studs are too long and would interfere with the mounting of your wheels. You will need to have stock length studs re-installed in order to do away with the spacers and mount your wheels directly to the hubs. I also have the Gambler wheels, which I believe were originally supplied by American Racing.

4. Tires: I use BF Goodrich AT tires, in the same size as yours. These work well in all seasons, and here in VA we have snow occasionally, l and I have had good success on and off road (I do a lot of kayaking and camping, not much hardcore offroading-my Sahara is almost entirely stock and these tires get me where I want to go). I can wholly endorse these tires for your needs. They last long and perform well. I am on my 4th set and generally get a little more than 50k per set, and I always include the spare in the tire rotations.

5. 4WD: For your uses, I think the existing NP231 transfer case is adequate for your requirements. Full time 4WD will kill your fuel mileage as well as your front and rear diffs for as much on road driving you are describing. Is it a bad idea? I think for your needs, your current setup will certainly work well for you. My Sahara is a daily driver on road as well-very similar to your uses, and the part time approach works very well.

6. Cluster: Yes, the seatbelt light will remind you to put on your belt at startup for the required 8 seconds (from the '98 regulations), and then that's it. You must take responsibility for your own seatbelt use. There is a wiring harness under your driver's seat that connects to the driver's side seatbelt buckle and you can check that it is connected. Otherwise, mine works exactly as yours. I see that as a nice feature rather than as a problem-I sincerely dislike the new cars yelling at me that I don't have my seatbelt fastened, or that the key is in the ignition and the door is open. Regarding the windshield washer indicator, there is no sensor or float in the reservoir that would activate your light, so this isn't really a problem-I suspect that light was for future use. I also have cruise control and use it all the time. After you set it, if you push in the clutch or hit the brake, the cruise is cancelled. Mine works pretty well, except that it doesn't like high winds or hills-these will cause the speed to overcompensate faster or go a little slower and you must be vigilant. The '98 TJ makes you an active driver instead of a spectator behind the wheel.

7. Signals-I have the same cancel issue. You are correct, and the auto signal cancel feature was available on the '98 TJ. My signal cancel feature has also failed, and I believe that is a spring problem in the signal stalk or perhaps a steering column problem. I also have an issue where the left signal will sometimes illuminate when I push on the brake. It won't flash, just stay lit. I believe that is also a steering column issue, and I haven't really bothered with troubleshooting either of these as I just cancel the signals myself, and if the signal illuminates while I am on the brake, either I let off the brake and adjust the steering wheel, or cancel the signal and then re-signal.

9. Cluster lights-I have not had any issues with this, and i have not used any LEDs in the cluster. I cannot offer any advice on this one.

Hopefully this helps.
 
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Thank you, everyone, for replying. I will take a look at my clockspring, I think that is the issue.

For the LSD for my rear, what do I need to do? From what was posted in this thread, regarding the links. I think that I will be best suited for an LSD in my rear axel. I really don't do much offroading, more so on-pavement driving. But I do see snow when the winter comes. As I live in Connecticut were it does snow in the winter. Can I have suggestions on what type of LSD I should look at? I read on a thread on this forum that there were different types. Something about a true trac or something like that.

I should mention that I drive a pretty stock TJ with only the tires being different, and I don't think that I have any plans to do any sort of lift or any major offroading.

For the wheels, what was the OEM size for the wheel hubs? Also, about my wheels, I thought I saw someone saying in a previous thread that I posted that my wheels are stock. Can someone confirm this?

As for the transfer case swap, I don't think I will end up doing this. I think that if I can put an LSD in my rear axel I think my problems would be solved, that and a tire upgrade.

My next question, should I have a matching set of tires? My spare tire is a 31x10.5x15 but when I took it to my local tire shop they told me that the inside of the tire was rotted out, so they cleaned it out and aired it up, this was a few weeks ago, and the tire still holds air.

For the LED Headlights, it is a shame that the KCs are not heated. I would need to get heated LED headlights because I live in a state where snow occurs during the winter. Are the truck lite and the JW Speakers the only options I have?
 
One of the best LSD on the market IMHO is a TruTrac gear driven differential. Here is one for your rear axle is you have a Dana 35.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GC7FC2/?tag=wranglerorg-20

They also make them for your front Dana 30 axle.

The stock bolt pattern is a 5 on 4.5" and yes you want all your tires to match. Even though you can buy many tires in say 31x10.5x15 each brand can be a little different in actual size. If your current spare is dry rotted on the inside while it might hold air it could be unsafe to drive on the road.
 
Hi TM.

Yes, your wheels are stock-they are called Gambler, and I believe they were manufactured by American Racing.

For your tires, I suggest you validate the year. You can do this by finding the DOT numbers on the sidewall of the tires. The very last four digits are the date. Generally, around 10 years is when you should think about replacing tires, especially the spare. I recommend including your spare in your tire rotation-this will make all tires wear evenly and last a bit longer. Here is a pic to help you identify the date. I strongly recommend spending money where it counts: tires, brakes, steering. Cheap out everywhere else if you like, but for these components you should get the highest quality.

Tire-Date-Code.gif


Regarding the lights, you have multiple options indeed unless you are married to the LED lights. Then, I believe, you only have those two. If you are open to other options, you can choose Halogen lights and HID lights. These will improve your visibility and still produce enough heat to keep your headlight lenses clear and are also cost effective. Here is a link to Quadratec, and you can filter the lights on H2, H4, Xenon, and of course all of the stock lights. If you are partial to KC, they have quite a selection.

Regarding the LSD, here is a video to show you what you may be up against for the installation, if you plan to do it yourself. If you are not very mechanically experienced, a shop should be able to install this for you quite easily. If you go with the Eaton trutrac (and I think you should), be sure that the installer, be it you or a shop, understands that the oil in the diff must be petroleum based (never synthetic for this particular locker) GL5 80W90 gear oil. If you purchase from Summit Racing, you can generally call and speak to someone if you have questions or if you need advice. Their service is excellent and their prices are very competitive. Also, you should read the ratings from those who have bought and installed or are using this LSD. You will usually end up with some very good information.

Here are some more good links to invaluable information on this forum.

TJ Factory Service Manuals and Technical Documentation

TJ Stock Specifications

Wheel Width and Why It Matters: 8" vs 10"
 
I have a 98 also and neither one of my turn signals wouldn't cancel, I came here and they suggested replacing my turnsignal assy. I found a mopar one on amazon I think super cheap and replaced it, and now my turn signals cancel everytime both ways. It was super easy to change. I didn't even have to pull the steering wheel. Just pull the cover behind the wheel and if I remember 4 screws and it all comes out put the new one in and gtg.

I have heard, if it is a clock spring problem your horn wont work either. I didn't have a clock spring problem so I cannot confirm that, but if your horn is working I bet you have a bad signal like I did, Might be worth a try. Like I said it was cheap and took like 15 min to replace. Worked for me anyway.