Wish I could help, but I only get vibrations from the front. Smooth as glass with the front driveshaft removed.
You can half way help. How is your rear setup?
Wish I could help, but I only get vibrations from the front. Smooth as glass with the front driveshaft removed.
You can half way help. How is your rear setup?
If I understand your question -
2006 LJ Rubicon, 4 1/2" suspension lift, adjustable control arms, Tom Woods double cardan drive shaft. The pinion is 1-2 degree lower than the driveshaft angle, but I would have to re-measure to provide you with the actual numbers. No tummy tuck.
What is your caster angle?
Bobthetj03 said:. . . I want to know the relationship of the pinion to the drive shaft. I'm currently at dead set 0, meaning exactly parallel. . . .
1-2 degrees low is an age-old way of setting pinion angles due to how the pinion angle raises during acceleration... but it's more of an issue with leaf spring suspensions than our TJs with control arms. I've said 1-2 degrees low, at the most, several times though 0 degrees is probably what you want with a TJ. But if you can't get it precisely at 0 degrees, it's better to have it a degree too low than a degree too high.
AC_, your pinion angle shouldn't really change even for a 4" lift though the angles at the driveshaft u-joints would be so steep that they'd be vibrating like crazy... so you'd have to do something. I dunno if you have a SYE or not though.
What is your front axle's problem? Is your steering not stable/not returning to center after completing a turn? Or is it a vibration? Keep in mind that the front pinion angle always takes precedence over caster angle. You adjust the caster angle up until you get a vibration caused by an excessive pinion angle and then back off enough to get rid of the vibration. That gives you as much caster angle as you can get without major surgery on the axle by welding the knuckles into a different position. 6 degrees of caster angle is nice to have but it's likely more than you need which is dependent on tire size. The bigger the tire the less caster angle that is needed to have good steering traits.
You know it may be the case in more of these situations that cumulative small improvements get you there.
I have the same tires and I have regeared and I have a very slight buzz above 65 that goes up and down.
If you notice that BFGoodrich tire has a pretty aggressive sidewall... It might be that at high-speed that tire starts to stand up a little bit and possibly higher tire pressure move the vibration around a little...I say that and at the same time I know 26 PSI is a magic number.
I know your old tires were worn pretty good, any idea how much the rollout changed with the tire swap? Did you notice any decrease in RPM at the original speeds?
What did everyone conclude is the best route as far as cost and equipment to put in manual hubs
Lord. You sound like a man on a mission...glad it worked out .Well I spent well over 3k on replacing driveshafts (4), rebuilding transfer case, replacing motor mounts, replacing control arms, input shafts, re setting gears twice, two different sets of tires and rims, and I know I am forgetting some things. Realistically it was probably over 4K I spent trying to fix it, I would have saved a lot of $$ if I just did the hubs right off the bat. I ended up going with the Yukon 5x5.5 kit.
curious why a 5x5.5 kit over 5x4.5?Well I spent well over 3k on replacing driveshafts (4), rebuilding transfer case, replacing motor mounts, replacing control arms, input shafts, re setting gears twice, two different sets of tires and rims, and I know I am forgetting some things. Realistically it was probably over 4K I spent trying to fix it, I would have saved a lot of $$ if I just did the hubs right off the bat. I ended up going with the Yukon 5x5.5 kit.
Wait are you saying the 5x5.5 makes the front wider, but the 5x5.4 doesn't?I also have the Yukon 5x5.5 manual hub conversion. I chose it over the Yukon 5x4.5 manual hub conversion kit for three reasons: 1) Bigger and stronger than the Ford style 5x4.5 hubs (although @mrblaine observed that in practice hub strength of the 5x4.5 kit isn't much of an issue); 2) I didn't like the idea of the 5x4.5 kit widening the front track 1.5" with no good way to match the rear track (although @mrblaine informed me that he actually prefers to set up jeeps that way rather than equal track front and rear); but most importantly (3) I was able to get a killer price on the 5x5.5 kit from Amazon that was $650 off retail and $400 less than the 5x4.5 kit. In the end I had to purchase $525 worth of new wheels with the 5x5.5 lug pattern, offset by the $400 I received for my old wheels, and it cost $75 to remount and re-balance my existing tires, so I really only saved $200 over the 5x4.5 kit.
Do I regret my choice to go with the 5x5.5 kit rather than the 5x4.5 kit? Absolutely not.
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