Knock the rollers out of the race. Weld a bead around the inside of the race where the rollers were, bearing race will fall out.
Welds shrink when they cool. That's why metal moves when you weld it. So, when you weld around the inside of the race, it shrinks, pulls the race with it, race falls out, literally, falls out.
When the only tool you have is a hammer, every solution is a nail. Or in this case I have a welder and I don't have a slide hammer. I've broken lots of races trying to get them out, and once you do it with a welder, you'll walk past 10 slide hammers to get to the welder. The 35 isn't that bad, the 8.8 OTOH, when I was developing the Super 88 kit it had some you couldn't get out with a puller because all the puller did was break the sides off the race.
).If you wish to cool the bearing go for it but do not waste you time trying to heat the housing.Just curious when re-installing the bearing - would it be worthwhile to put the bearing in the refrigerator and maybe warm the axle with a torch? Doing so may make the bearing install a much smoother process with minimal pounding in the bearing (my aim now isn’t what it was 50 years ago
(reminds me of when I used to rebuild VW engines - put the piston in a warm oven and the wrist pin in the freezer - barely had to use a hammer to install the wrist pin into the piston and thru the rod).
Yeah, lot of mass there, but every degree helps - although I will say that I’m rebuilding an axle so can install bearing before the backplate goes on along with the brake lines.
I never worry about it. I have an aluminum puck that fits the bearing bore but a piece of pipe works just as well. Just drive it home.
