Rear Axle Centering Tips & Tricks Needed

WolfMan

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Oct 3, 2019
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Newberg, OR
Howdy, I’ve tried searching and couldn’t really find anything specific to this application. 4” Currie lift (everything included: control arms, antirock, rear sway bar links, etc…) and adjustable track bars front and rear. Front axle centering, piece of cake. My rear axle was nearly impossible to try and center when I last tried (gave up after about an hour), so it’s been offset about 1” and while driving it feels like I need to square everything off. Anyone have any good tips or tricks to centering the rear axle with adjustable track bar? Thanks for the help!
 
The axle tends to self-center if the Jeep's weight is sitting fully on the tires without the track bar in place. Jumping up & down on the rear bumper will help that. If it doesn't a ratchet strap has the strength to pull it so it is centered. Once the axle is centered, with the weight still on the tires, adjust the track bar's length so it bolts up and bolt it into place.
 
The axle tends to self-center if the Jeep's weight is sitting fully on the tires without the track bar in place. Jumping up & down on the rear bumper will help that. If it doesn't a ratchet strap has the strength to pull it so it is centered. Once the axle is centered, with the weight still on the tires, adjust the track bar's length so it bolts up and bolt it into place.
I tried jumping on the rear bumper multiple times with the rear track bar removed and it didn’t seem to budge. Had tiny ratchet straps so would need to get bigger straps to do the job. Is possible the axle position is just happy where it is offset?
 
Adjustable upper control arms can bind a little bit. I've centered axles by simultaneously lengthening one while shortening the other, the same number of turns, which will move the frame over in relation to the axle.

The ratchet strap method will put your uppers in a bind if they're not already trying to center it.
 
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Adjustable upper control arms can bind a little bit. I've centered axles by simultaneously lengthening one while shortening the other, the same number of turns, which will move the frame over in relation to the axle.

The ratchet strap method will put your uppers in a bind if they're not already trying to center it.
Gotcha, good to know. I’ve always left the front passenger side upper off when aligning the front, and adjusting it until the bolt goes smoothly in so it doesn’t bind. I’m wondering if maybe removing a rear upper might benefit to center the rear axle.
 
Gotcha, good to know. I’ve always left the front passenger side upper off when aligning the front, and adjusting it until the bolt goes smoothly in so it doesn’t bind. I’m wondering if maybe removing a rear upper might benefit to center the rear axle.

that should definitely help. Then just re-adjust the upper you removed until the bolt slips in smoothly again.

My method really only works with double adjustables. I just spin them both half a turn at a time, together, so it shifts the axle sideways without affecting the pinion angle.
 
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that should definitely help. Then just re-adjust the upper you removed until the bolt slips in smoothly again.

My method really only works with double adjustables. I just spin them both half a turn at a time, together, so it shifts the axle sideways without affecting the pinion angle.
Sweet, will have to try it out and provide details if it works. Thanks @freedom_in_4low
 
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My lowers are set equidistant (15-3/4” eye to eye) and the uppers have been adjusted for pinion angle. When I get around to this project, I’ll try removing an upper first and if that doesn’t work, I’ll try removing a lower arm