First post newbie here, I just bought a 1997 TJ 4 cylinder. It's stock except the tires are 267/75/16, no lift and no plans for one. It's got the Dana 35. it's making a humming noise when I accelerate through a right-hand curve, local shop says I need new axles. I have talked to a shade tree mechanic friend of mine who told me a quick way to see if I'm being lied to about this but haven't had a chance to get the Jeep in the air since getting it back from the shop. If I do in fact need axles, are stock Dana 35s, 27 or 30 spline axles and from what I can gather it's not a tough job, would this be a correct assumption. Any recommendations on write-ups or videos would be appreciated. Also, any recommendations on axles would be appreciated as well.
Rear Axle questions
- Thread starter WKUTJ
- Start date
If you are newbie to the TJ world this may be more than you want to bite off for your first do it yourself project.
Stock Dana 35 axles have 27 spline shafts. And axles can, generally be speaking, be rebuilt with new bearings & gears... whatever is needed. In other words, you don't need an entirely new or different axle. From it making a noise only on a turn I'd guess just a bearing but I'm not an axle expert. If you need a new ring & pinion gearset, that does require an expert to set up.
I'm a newbie to the TJ world but a friend is not he's built a few TJ's and a JK so he is around to guide the process. I'm also searching for a second mechanics opinion, the current one is wanting to charge me almost $600 for brakes. I can do the brakes myself for less that $200. Thanks for the info.
Yes. Find a new mechanic. There maybe a few guys on here from your area and can help you with finding the right one.
Yeah, I'm not sure I even need brakes, my pedal is a little soft but I think it may just be the wheel cylinders. There is no squeaking or vibration, so I know my rotors are wrapped and my pads shouldn't be that worn. I'm not sure about the wear on the shoes or drums, but I will be checking the brakes this evening and doing all the work myself for sure.
Yep, bleed the brakes. But if your rotors are warped, definitely get new pads and rotors. That will help drastically.
Generally when axle and/or carrier bearings are bad you will hear a grinding while turning; turn left and it could be the right and vice versa, since you are "loading" that side. Again generally, it isn't a good idea to put a new bearing on an old axle since the bearing rides directly on the axle. They end up "mating" to one another so putting in a new bearing can accelerate axle wear. Carrier bearings are replaced together so no issue there.
The definitive way to know if anything is bad is a tear down and inspect. It will be easy to see if the axle is pitted or if the bearing has worn a groove into it. At that point, the carrier comes out with simple removal of the bearing caps.
The definitive way to know if anything is bad is a tear down and inspect. It will be easy to see if the axle is pitted or if the bearing has worn a groove into it. At that point, the carrier comes out with simple removal of the bearing caps.
Pulsating brakes are not often caused by warped rotors, it's more commonly caused by brake pad material that has transferred to the rotor surface. It can build up in a pattern like a dirt road can develop a washboard pattern.
This can be caused by holding the brakes on hard at stops when the brakes are hot. I was always in a local brake shop getting my rotors turned, thinking they were warped. Then Blaine Johnson taught me what was causing it and I haven't had a "warped rotor" in probably 12-13 years since I corrected my braking technique.
Thanks for all the help and input. Jacked the rear end up last night and the axles had about 1/8 of an inch of play when pulling them straight out. No up or down movement at all. No wobble either. The wheel cylinders were leaking on both sides pretty bad so I began the rear brake repair last night and got one side complete and will get the other side complete and get the front brakes changed this evening. Bought all the supplies and the Haynes manual for $150. So automatic savings of $450 over the shop prices. When I complete the brakes, I'm going to start checking and changing fluids, starting with the rear differential. Any suggestions on the fluid to refill or and tips since this will be a new job to me. Again thanks for the advice and input.
The end play is normal. Any name brand diff oil is fine. Weight isn't all that important although some like the heavier stuff if they tow.
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