Rear driveshaft fit
- Thread starter Vulture
- Start date
I'm highly considering just ordering some kind of lower extensions for the rear shocks. Just by thinking about it no matter how much I adjust control arms the shocks will end up in the same position due to where the pinion angle needs to be.
Sorry for totally high jacking your post @Vulture. Hopefully you are picking up a few things from my trial and error.
Sorry for totally high jacking your post @Vulture. Hopefully you are picking up a few things from my trial and error.
Like these?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FXWZT8/?tag=wranglerorg-20
You should have those with any lift over 3". If you don't you'll run into issues like you're talking about.
You are the man! I can't thank you enough for your willingness to give guidance and direction.
Not a problem at all!
The funny thing is that even in my expensive Currie 4" lift, they don't include these. It's beyond me why none of the popular "lift kits: out there include these. They make you "discover" that you need to buy them after you've already installed the lift.
And without them, your pinion angle will be so far up, that you'll be encountering some serious issues. This is what happened when I installed my Currie lift. I was wondering what the hell the clunking noise was from the rear, and it turned out to be my rear shocks.
These take care of the issue perfectly.
What you are experiencing with the shock body rubbing the lower spring perch is common after raising the pinion angle @Forty. But typical shock extenders are weak/prone to bending and tend to mount lower where they get hung up while offroading, I wouldn't go that route. Three options come to mind...
You can either 1) flip your rear shocks upside-down so the body is at the top and the smaller diameter strut is next to the lower spring perch which gives it enough clearance. Most shocks can be flipped upside down without problem, I've done that with 2-3 shocks. SOME shocks cannot, I don't know about yours. Or 2) you can use an angle grinder and grind some of the material away from the lower spring perch to gain the necessary clearance.
Or 3) and the preferable fix although you need to employ a welder, move the shock mounts back up to the position they were at before you raised the pinion angle. When you raised the pinion angle, that rolled the axle tube down in the back which moved the spring mount downward and inward which is what pulled the shock in against the spring perch. Welders normally do such jobs inexpensively. 4x4 shops that install suspension lifts onto Jeeps are used to doing this particular job, call around.
You can either 1) flip your rear shocks upside-down so the body is at the top and the smaller diameter strut is next to the lower spring perch which gives it enough clearance. Most shocks can be flipped upside down without problem, I've done that with 2-3 shocks. SOME shocks cannot, I don't know about yours. Or 2) you can use an angle grinder and grind some of the material away from the lower spring perch to gain the necessary clearance.
Or 3) and the preferable fix although you need to employ a welder, move the shock mounts back up to the position they were at before you raised the pinion angle. When you raised the pinion angle, that rolled the axle tube down in the back which moved the spring mount downward and inward which is what pulled the shock in against the spring perch. Welders normally do such jobs inexpensively. 4x4 shops that install suspension lifts onto Jeeps are used to doing this particular job, call around.
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Well I'm glad you posted this @Jerry Bransford because I took another look and the PO already had the lower mount extenders installed so that will definitely not be the fix lol. Not to mention by only adjusting the top CA's the bolt for my track bar mount has dug a nice little patch in my gas tank skid. Looks like I'm going to re adjust the lowers and see if there's a way I can make it work. If not there is a newly found 4x4 shop near by. Stopped by there today to order an adjustable rear track bar and after talking to them for a bit and seeing some of their work on ground they might just be the place to handle welding some new brackets if I can't get it. Thank you again for your willingness to share your wealth of knowledge. Really means a lot to a FNG like myself that likes to do my own wrenching as much as possible.
Ok so I impressed my self a bit tonight. Tried messing with my control arms only to realize there is no getting it with the current set up. I started thinking about your second option from a few comments ago @Jerry Bransford, but my shock mounts are different from top to bottom... however I thought to myself their just bushings pressed in a hole. So I finagled them out and swapped sides, run the shocks upside down and problem solved!
That being said my friend knows of a guy who has a company Freedom Fabworks in Flint, MI who specializes in TJ's. He said he needs a couple weeks but will get me dialed in at that point.
That being said my friend knows of a guy who has a company Freedom Fabworks in Flint, MI who specializes in TJ's. He said he needs a couple weeks but will get me dialed in at that point.
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