What is the torque on the rear pinion yoke nut the book says 14 ft lbs but that cant be right and i have to get it together to leave for work soon
Rear pinion nut torque
- Thread starter wraith1516
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For the pinion nut it's 180+ ft-lbs. I'm not by my shop manual but that's close.
If it's a Dana 35 you want the rotational resistance around 16-20 in/lbs. (new gears). It may take greater than 400 ft/lbs to get the crush sleeve started. If it's a Dana 44, then ~200 ft/lbs is good.
Dana 35 had to replace yoke and seal .yoke had a groove wore in it so it would not hold oil back so i got a new yoke and seal the Haynes manual said 14 foot pounds on yoke nut
1st rule....haynes is worthless.
Second, you need a new crush sleeve. Some people have had luck re-using a crush sleeve by marking the pinion nut and tightening it back to that spot. I don't recommend that approach at all for a couple of reasons. First, the ambient temperature the nut was installed in is most likely different that what you are doing now (heat/cold expand/contract). That means you can get the nut on too loose or too tight. Second, I'm not in favor AT ALL of re-using a pinion nut, even with loc-tite.
The correct way is to get a new crush sleeve and a new pinion nut. Get the sleeve to crush and get your pre-load around 10-15 in/lbs. My .02
As above, use your Haynes manual for kindling. It's only good for the basics like changing your oil, spark plugs, and maybe the brakes. It's too thin to be entirely accurate on every subject. The factory service manual has 4-5X as much information in it and you can count on it being accurate. Burn that Haynes or put it in your outhouse to be used as needed.
The only differential component torque setting that could have a 14 in it is the pinion bearing pre-load but that would be 14 in.-lbs, not 14 ft. lbs. That's how much force it takes to rotate the pinion shaft and the factory spec is 10-20 inch-lbs.
For tightening the nut, yes your Dana 35 has a crush sleeve but in my personal opinion and what was recommended to me by Tom Wood years ago when I was replacing my previous TJ's Dana 35 yoke is to just torque that nut to 165-180 ft-lbs. Its crush sleeve does not need to be replaced and thus re-crushed (VERY difficult) every time the pinion nut is removed. The crush sleeve maintains elasticity so for what you're doing, I would strictly tighten it as Tom Wood recommended to me. It worked fine for me and I never had any issues afterward.
I need to replace my pinion seals also.
So what I need to do after I remove the old seals and install the new ones is....
Use a new pinion nut and torque it between 165 and 180 .
Should I use any sealant on the new pionion seals?
Thanks
So what I need to do after I remove the old seals and install the new ones is....
Use a new pinion nut and torque it between 165 and 180 .
Should I use any sealant on the new pionion seals?
Thanks
If you have a dana 44, pull the yoke, pull the seal, clean mating surface, install seal, install new pinion nut, torque to ~200 +/-. No need for additional sealant.
If you have a Dana 35 or Dana 30, go with one of the two options above, but you know my o pinion...
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