Rear spring angle: How much is too much?

TimboSlice

TimboSlice

TJ Enthusiast
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Oct 24, 2018
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Years ago I mocked up spring perches on a 8.8 axle for a much larger lift and such than I will be running now (I was dumb and didnt understand at time). My question is how much of an angle can the spring perches be before looking into relocating. I understand that I may need to grind off and re-weld if need be. I am using adjustable arms both upper and lower. After I get the axle in the ideal spot I need it, I am curious if my new springs will be to far on a angle. Should the axle perches be parallel and level to the jeep? Should the axle placement be dead center in wheel well? Or should there be some room for the axle to come forward into the wheel well? Or what other info would be good to gather to get some input on this subject? Will be using a SYE and DC rear shaft. 4in springs, and adjustable arms.
 
The axle should be a tad forward of center when at normal ride height, it moves back some when it compresses upward. Level spring perches are ideal but not many of us have them once we roll the axle to raise the pinion angle for a DC driveshaft.
 
How well do the bump stops line up at bump? That is the reason we move the perches. Aligning the bump stops will also help determine the axle positioning.
 
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jjvw said:
How well do the bump stops line up at bump? That is the reason we move the perches. Aligning the bump stops will also help determine the axle positioning.
Click to expand...

Thats with the rubber jounces and retaining cup removed, correct?
 
This would be a initial axle install. So I am roughing it from the very beginning. I will jack up the axle without the uppers installed to see where I am at on the axle center point. Then get the trans skid bolted up and check the pinion angle. Im just scared I need to remove the truss kit to setup proper geometry with the new setup. That would really suck. It would be very difficult to remove these brackets without screwing them up and damaging them. Ill try and get some pictures this weekend.
 
Here is a pic, the track bar bracket is about to hit the tub so I had to stop. What are your guys thoughts with what you see here?

IMG_3717.jpg
 
Mike_H said:
I'm not expert, but I think if you extend your bumpstops, you won't have a problem getting the to make solid contact.
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Yes. I agree. The question is if these need to be in line with one another, or if the perch angles look goofy.


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Get the pinion set. That will change the bump stop alignment (for the worse). Splitting the extension between the upper and lower can help make the the bumps touch. There comes a point where the upper spring seat needs to be moved to make it work again.
 
TimboSlice said:
Yes. I agree. The question is if these need to be in line with one another, or if the perch angles look goofy.


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Click to expand...
They need to be inline together enough that they make good solid contact and can't slide off one another. You'll have to answer that after pinion angle is set... If it's not already.
 
So is this ideally what im looking for on each side as far as lower rear length? Ive heard this method and also the method of wheel well fill, it just made sense to have the length set to dead center. Then install springs and tires, and 1 upper to find pinion angle with jeep sitting on its own weight? Should the track bar be installed and set to at this point? Like I said, this is from scratch, so if I was using the same arms id mock the new ones to length.

IMG_3719.jpg
 
Ideally dont you want to have the lower spring perch horizontal at ride height and the upper is then moved to match the swing up with the axle?
 
dougrz said:
What ended up happening with this?
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Looked good to me. Maybe someone sees something I dont. Sorry. Wasnt going to remove tire for side view, which is prolly what we need to see. I will also need spacers for the rear, seems close.

IMG_4708.jpg
 
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