Rear Sway Bar Link Hardware Question

[97' 4 Popper]

I'm going from unknown stock length links in the rear to the JKS adjustable 2942, the ones that you cut to length needed. It uses the original hardware. The link I have has the original flag nut and bolt for frame. However for the axle mounting bolt it won't work because the shank size is much bigger and won't fit through JKS bushing, but the thread size itself is the same.

The bolt I need has a m14 shank with a m10 1.5 bolt thread size, 65mm length. Should I really pay 10 dollars a bolt for these, or just use some m10-1.5-70s I already have laying around. The regular m10s won't fill up the bushing hole properly.

https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/Jeep/SCREW-Shoulder-Mounting/4466121/06503726.html

Sometimes the thought process of the PO is baffling. Yeah let me do a 2 inch lift in the rear but Ill use aftermarket stock length links that ditch the original axle hardware for no apparent reason.

 

[CreepinDeth]

The bolt I need has a m14 shank with a m10 1.5 bolt thread size, 65mm length. Should I really pay 10 dollars a bolt for these, or just use some m10-1.5-70s I already have laying around. The regular m10s won't fill up the bushing hole properly.

Use the proper hardware
$10 is nothing in the grand scheme of things that using an improperly sized bolt can cause

 

[jjvw]

I'm going from unknown stock length links in the rear to the JKS adjustable 2942, the ones that you cut to length needed. It uses the original hardware. The link I have has the original flag nut and bolt for frame. However for the axle mounting bolt it won't work because the shank size is much bigger and won't fit through JKS bushing, but the thread size itself is the same.

The bolt I need has a m14 shank with a m10 1.5 bolt thread size, 65mm length. Should I really pay 10 dollars a bolt for these, or just use some m10-1.5-70s I already have laying around. The regular m10s won't fill up the bushing hole properly.

https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/Jeep/SCREW-Shoulder-Mounting/4466121/06503726.html

Sometimes the thought process of the PO is baffling. Yeah let me do a 2 inch lift in the rear but Ill use aftermarket stock length links that ditch the original axle hardware for no apparent reason.

As long as you are clamping the bushing sleeve to the sway bar or the frame mount, the specifics of the bolt size do not matter within reason. Which is a fairly wide breadth of reason.

This is the same concept of bolt function and clamping force as it is with control arms and track bars.

 

[97' 4 Popper]

As long as you are clamping the bushing sleeve to the sway bar or the frame mount, the specifics of the bolt size do not matter within reason. Which is a fairly wide breadth of reason.

This is the same concept of bolt function and clamping force as it is with control arms and track bars.

Okay, I just wanted to double check, I get what you mean about the clamping force. I just though m10 vs m14 was a bit too much of a difference. I really didn't want to spend 20 bucks on two bolts, plus shipping that will probably take 1-2 weeks. By that point it will be freezing temps and I have some other odds and ends to sort out before then with the Jeep.

I'm not too overly worried about the rear links I guess, as I was driving with them loose for quite a while. The sway bar bushings were shot so the lower link nut just kept getting pulled on and backing off. I don't expect any real handling difference, I'm only doing this to stop the links from rubbing on the parking brake cables at full droop.