Finally getting around to fixing it this weekend I’ll keep y’all updated on the progress. Thanks again for all the help!
Rear track bar bracket broke off
- Thread starter Arty off-road
- Start date
I agree that he should add some gusset plates to it since it's been modified to move the track bar mount up. Simple small vertical triangle pieces to the top of the tube would make big difference. If you're in there welding, I'd put one between the track bar mount and the spring perch.
Something like this but upright and maybe 30/60/90 triangle to give you a higher connection point.
just curious what sort of track bar do you have? Does it have polyurethane bushings in both ends, stock rubber bushings, or at least one flex joint like a Johnny Joint?
I've seen this a few times on the TJ facebook pages but never personally witnessed it. I always suspected overly stiff bushings could be a contributor, especially when my old track bar with 2 poly bushings wouldn't go in unless I had the axle at just the right height to line up the bushing with the mount.
I've seen this a few times on the TJ facebook pages but never personally witnessed it. I always suspected overly stiff bushings could be a contributor, especially when my old track bar with 2 poly bushings wouldn't go in unless I had the axle at just the right height to line up the bushing with the mount.
sorry to mention this but..............that welder has a gas feed problem or it was done in the wind and the shielding gas did not work. those porous welds are not to be trusted, if load bearing.
It's not common but broken rear track bar brackets definitely happen. Mine cracked its weld on a tough part of a trail and it came off entirely. Fortunately I was wheeling in a well-equipped group of wheelers where a Premier Powerwelder saved the day. Which is why I put together an inexpensive stick welding kit for the trail several years ago. A whole bunch of shit also broke at that same spot on the trail... track bar bracket, control arm bolt, rear pinion yoke, rear driveshaft, and even my aluminum wheel cracked in half. I barely got back in time for dinner.
Rob01TJ
New Member
Thats the rear track bar bracket and the same thing has happened to mine although as Im in Australia mine is RHD. Jeep connection make a bracket that you can reattach to the axle then bolt on the sway bar. But for RHD. I am not sure if they have something for LHD. I got mine welded back on however it broke again after about a month of driving.
It was a photo I pulled from the internet to show the plate type and location. Most of the rest of the photos were bridge gusset plates that used rivets.
i'm forced to weld through scale all day long......don't get caught cleaning parts or you'll get told about it.
a fair share of production welding does not bother.
Not my weld, guy I bout it from was clearly an “expert mechanic “ it’s been a pain working to remove the rear axle, but fortunately my dad was a professional welder and he’s gonna help me get it fixed and hopefully I learn some stuff.
Couldn’t tell ya, it’s still attached since the bolt on the passenger side is seized and didn’t have an 18mm wrench (the nut side is a 15mm..... don’t ask why, idk) so that’s a no go for today. Bought an 18mm wrench this evening. And the drivers side is the side that broke but it requires a T55 Torx socket you get him off so I had to buy a torx socket set this evening too. Back at it again bright and early tomorrow.
Often on larger bolt/nut they use different sizes because many (most) don't have 2 complete sets of oversized wrenches.
Back in the old days almost all bolt/nut used a different wrench size. They were expected to be worked on by the owner, and back then having 2 complete wrench sets was very uncommon. The early tractors (and trucks) were designed to be able to rebuild the engine while still mounted in the machine. These new engineers (frequently) can't even design an engine where you can replace the sparkplugs without pulling a motor mount. Let alone have each vehicle need a bunch of 'special' tools specific to that model. Everything is designed to be thrown out or traded in. Pathetic ‼
Back in the old days almost all bolt/nut used a different wrench size. They were expected to be worked on by the owner, and back then having 2 complete wrench sets was very uncommon. The early tractors (and trucks) were designed to be able to rebuild the engine while still mounted in the machine. These new engineers (frequently) can't even design an engine where you can replace the sparkplugs without pulling a motor mount. Let alone have each vehicle need a bunch of 'special' tools specific to that model. Everything is designed to be thrown out or traded in. Pathetic ‼
So it’s taken some time but finally got the rear axle off. The bracket on the sway bar is proving to be difficult and it’s a torx bolt which adds to it. But here are the updated pics for y’all. Almost every bolt has been seized in, the control arms were a pain. In all, I’ve had, 3 bolts snap, 2 bolts had to be cut, 2 still in and we can’t get out, and every other bolt had to be pressed out or pounded out. So in addition to all this work, all new bolts are on the list.
ps. The emergency brake was a b*tch. Finally got both off but getting them back on will be interesting. And suggestions/ tools?
ps. The emergency brake was a b*tch. Finally got both off but getting them back on will be interesting. And suggestions/ tools?
I thought you knew we were just joking
! You really only needed to buy 1 small bracket that is held on with a jam nut
.
But seriously, it's amazing how a few bolts can totally
up a fairly easy (on paper) job. Be certain to apply a lot of antiseize to all the bolts so if you ever need to go back again this won't happen. You're doing a great job. Most folks would have either called a shop or just cobbled a fix together. The hardest part is over my friend. Don't forget 
breaks. A tip of the hat to you, sir. 
! You really only needed to buy 1 small bracket that is held on with a jam nut.But seriously, it's amazing how a few bolts can totally
up a fairly easy (on paper) job. Be certain to apply a lot of antiseize to all the bolts so if you ever need to go back again this won't happen. You're doing a great job. Most folks would have either called a shop or just cobbled a fix together. The hardest part is over my friend. Don't forget breaks. A tip of the hat to you, sir.
The one you can see hanging down in the picture with the bucket is the upper control arm on the PS the bolt is seized in there at the cab side and I have to figure out how to get it out or cut it out
No I 100% thought y’all were serious so the axle came out and is getting welded back on lol. And yeah I’m installing new bolts when I put it back together; but looking at the state of the control arm joints and all I’m considered postponing installing everything until I can get some new control arms installed. The guy who I bought the Jeep from thoroughly failed this Jeep, grease points around the Jeep haven’t been greased in ages, things are bent and pounded back in place cables are pinched and dangling bolts are rusted through, seized. I have it all out I don’t see why not just spoil the old girl with some new parts and a better maintenance routineI thought you knew we were just joking
But seriously, it's amazing how a few bolts can totally
EzPeezy
TJ Enthusiast
I'm working on the same bracket right now. No rear end pull tho. My bracket is bent and the trackbar part is still on. We are going to weld some support/bracing for the bracket and go with that. Broke only one bolt so far holding the sway bar support on. It has a captured nut that I am gonna have to wash out with the torch I guess....I see yours' is clean with no captured nuts...must be newer than my 2000.
Found out my gas tank needs replacing....looking for one now. Good luck with your jeep.
Found out my gas tank needs replacing....looking for one now. Good luck with your jeep.
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