Rear track bar with SYE?

ctcomputers

ctcomputers

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nebraska
Can someone confirm if I need to change my rear track bar with approximately a 4" lift and SYE? Apparently I have a stock (angled?) track bar on a relocation bracket. I'm installing adjustable control arms and it looks like the rear track is binding and will hit/rub the gas tank. I will try to get pictures if helpful but maybe it's a simple question for the professionals! Thanks!
 
An adjustable rear track bar will let you center your rear diff back. I didn't even think it was possible to get the stock bar bolted up with a 4" lift even with a relocation bracket. I have a rear JKS adjustable on mine with a SYE and a 4" lift.
 
ctcomputers said:
Can someone confirm if I need to change my rear track bar with approximately a 4" lift and SYE? Apparently I have a stock (angled?) track bar on a relocation bracket. I'm installing adjustable control arms and it looks like the rear track is binding and will hit/rub the gas tank. I will try to get pictures if helpful but maybe it's a simple question for the professionals! Thanks!
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Pictures would help. I agree with @ac_ - I didn't think you could even get that bolted up, but it seems someone did...
 
Also, if you need to adjust the pinion angle for the driveshaft (CV?), you would need an angled axle-side track bar bracket in addition to an adjustable track bar.
 
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glwood said:
Also, if you need to adjust the pinion angle for the driveshaft (CV?), you would need an angled axle-side track bar bracket in addition to an adjustable track bar.
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can you, by chance, post a link to what you are talking about. i am going to be putting on some control arms in the near future and would love to buy everything i need at one time. i also have a 4" lift. the guy i bought the jeep from swapped as little as possible when he did the lift. it had all the factory parts up front so i doubt he did much to the rear.
 
glwood said:
Pictures would help. I agree with @ac_ - I didn't think you could even get that bolted up, but it seems someone did...
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That might help explain what I am seeing. I assume there should not normally be front/back tension on rear track bar? I had taken the bolt out but it seems wedged in the bracket. Before I tried prying it out I wanted to make sure I was understanding correctly. If I need a better picture(s) I will post more.

KIMG0042.JPG


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KIMG0741.jpg
 
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Jon Wildes said:
can you, by chance, post a link to what you are talking about. i am going to be putting on some control arms in the near future and would love to buy everything i need at one time. i also have a 4" lift. the guy i bought the jeep from swapped as little as possible when he did the lift. it had all the factory parts up front so i doubt he did much to the rear.
Click to expand...

https://www.quadratec.com/products/...MI_pWLrpSJ3wIVg5JbCh3dZAW5EAQYAiABEgJ7vPD_BwE



1544029055529.png

Moves the mounting point away from the gas tank, and angles it backward so it does not bind. When you tilt the pinion angle upward to be more in line with the transfer case output, the rear axle is rotated back at the top. This bracket is needed when you do that. There are other mfgs that make a bracket like this, they are all essentially the same.
 
Thanks for the quick replies. Couple of questions-

Do I still need the angled relocation bracket since I have an SYE and adjustable control arms? I thought I could purchase the correct type of adjustable rear track arm and use the original (or existing relocation) mount points? If so can someone link to the correct bar and if not possible please confirm.

Secondly, should it be safe to pry out the binding track bar from the relocation bracket (1st picture) provided the diff, axle, and jeep are supported?
 
The rear track bar centers your differential from side to side your control arms keeps it centered front to rear. I believe if you buy an adjustable rear bar it comes pre-bent.

Basically if you don't change the bar it will be too short and will hold your axle to once side.

I think if you can pry the bolts out you can pry the bar out. You can lift the frame and let the suspension hang it might be safer to remove if you are nervous.
 
An angled track bar bracket is required only when an aftermarket rear CV driveshaft has been installed. That is required because the rear axle housing has to be rotated to raise the pinion angle upward to work properly with the CV driveshaft. Rotating the axle to raise the pinion angle changes the angle of the track bar mount on the axle so it's tilted back toward the gas tank. An aftermarket angled track bar mount is required to straighten that angle back so it's vertical again as is required.

An angled rear track bar mount is not required for the factory rear driveshaft.
 
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With an SYE and control arms you have to rotate the diff up (backwards) to get the driveshaft aligned. Rotating the pinion in turn, rotates your trackbar mount. So yes, you will need an angled track bar bracket

Jerry B beating me once again!
 
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Thanks for explaining! Looks like I am ordering at least an angled bracket and likely a rear adjustable trackbar to go with it.

Any recommendations for a budget rear adjustable trackbar? I had ordered Core4x4 adjustable control arms and might just get the matching trackbar if the price is right unless advised otherwise. Thanks!
 
Not going with an adjustable length track bar would be a mistake, you'd have a hell of a time getting the OE trackbar bolted back up. It's too short once you install a suspension lift.
 
Keep in mind that it's actually easy to center the axle during a track bar installation and during that process, the track bar has nothing to do with centering it.

The axle will tend to self-center itself just via the action of the springs and control arms. If it's not perfect you can use your hands to push the tub over a tad or jump up & down on the bumper until the axle is acceptably centered. Then the track bar's length is simply adjusted so its bolt holes match up to its two mounts and you bolt it in, no muss no fuss. :)
 
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Thanks again for the information from everyone. I finally got the track bar "released" from the drivers side relocation bracket. It was definitely binding with the non-angled bracket and stock bar with a 3-4" lift. Apparently the PO added a SYE and DCDS but left the stock bar. Between seized lower control arm bolts/bushings and the binding track bar I would think the ride and handling should improve.

Unfortunately I discovered the relocation bracket had been welded at a few points (now I also see it in the pictures). Before I attempt to grind and remove the relocation bracket would there be any benefit to cutting and leaving any of the welded existing bracket as additional flat iron for attaching the angled replacement?
 
ctcomputers said:
Thanks again for the information from everyone. I finally got the track bar "released" from the drivers side relocation bracket. It was definitely binding with the non-angled bracket and stock bar with a 3-4" lift. Apparently the PO added a SYE and DCDS but left the stock bar. Between seized lower control arm bolts/bushings and the binding track bar I would think the ride and handling should improve.

Unfortunately I discovered the relocation bracket had been welded at a few points (now I also see it in the pictures). Before I attempt to grind and remove the relocation bracket would there be any benefit to cutting and leaving any of the welded existing bracket as additional flat iron for attaching the angled replacement?
Click to expand...
Probably not, leaving any metal behind will likely make the relocation bracket not fit properly.
 
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ctcomputers said:
... Before I attempt to grind and remove the relocation bracket would there be any benefit to cutting and leaving any of the welded existing bracket as additional flat iron for attaching the angled replacement?
Click to expand...
No, remove it all. The new bracket was designed to attach to the OE axle and old remaining pieces would affect the fit of the new bracket.
 
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