Reman engine upgrade options

[Ryjedavis]

So tore it down and broke the piston skirt on #5. Didn’t look to bad, so I thought I might rebuild it. But when I took off the oil cover and removed the cam I noticed the hole in the block in the picture. It’s right above the cam behind the timing cover. I assume it’s not supposed to be there, but please correct me if I’m wrong. Anyone ever seen the block get a hole there? I don’t see how it could be related to the piston skirt. . Does that go to a coolant passage?

 

[Ryjedavis]

Never mind. Just found some other posts with pics that look like mine with people calling it normal. Weird place to have a hole from casting, and it’s jagged like it blew out. O well, learned something tonight.

 

[BlueC]

Weird place to have a hole from casting, and it’s jagged like it blew out.

If you're doing a complete teardown and rebuild with a planned trip to the washer and machine shop, it's a good idea to cleanup rough casting areas like that. Nothing crazy, just knock off the big stuff and smooth out the rough/sharp edges.

 

[ColoJeep]

If you're doing a complete teardown and rebuild with a planned trip to the washer and machine shop, it's a good idea to cleanup rough casting areas like that. Nothing crazy, just knock off the big stuff and smooth out the rough/sharp edges.

Great thing to add ! , eliminating stress risers is fairly easy to do , it just takes a little time and is worth doing .

 

[BlueC]

Great thing to add ! , eliminating stress risers is fairly easy to do , it just takes a little time and is worth doing .

Not to mention the reduction in cuts while you man-handle the block. I can't tell you how many times I've been cut by casting flash like that.

 

[John Cooper]

I'm going from 30-40 years ago. Used to we had to request to get the block and head magnafluxed, do you still have to request that?

Reason being i would never have a block or head worked on with out it being done first.

Also have the machine shop line bore the cam journals and install the cam bearings.

 

[BlueC]

I'm going from 30-40 years ago. Used to we had to request to get the block and head magnafluxed, do you still have to request that?

Reason being i would never have a block or head worked on with out it being done first.

Most shops you have to specify what work you want done. I would at minimum expect it to be brought up in conversation before signing off on the work order.

Also have the machine shop line bore the cam journals and install the cam bearings.

Not a bad idea being a long block, but for terminology it's line-honing that needs to be requested. Honing is a clean-up operation, boring is material removal, which if actually done could lead to special bearings. Also, if significant cam or crank tunnel boring is required, I'd be questioning why and think a different block is needed.

 

[ColoJeep]

Most shops you have to specify what work you want done. I would at minimum expect it to be brought up in conversation before signing off on the work order.



Not a bad idea being a long block, but for terminology it's line-honing that needs to be requested. Honing is a clean-up operation, boring is material removal, which if actually done could lead to special bearings.

"Line bore" , is an old generic term that can mean either. Kinda like "valve job " the latitude of work can be real wide .

 

[BlueC]

"Line bore" , is an old generic term that can mean either. Kinda like "valve job " the latitude of work can be real wide .

I know, I say it too, actually both of those. I just want the OP to go in with a base line of knowledge so that he has a decent footing to start off on.

Also, OP, get a valve job while your in there, and see if they'll tighten up that wiggle pin so you can install a 3/4 race cam.

It turns out we can actually get a valve job here https://www.ziprecruiter.com/Jobs/From-Home-Valve-Software?lk=tFL3XkCfM8GJQO_irLzwEA

 

[Zorba]

"Line bore" , is an old generic term that can mean either. Kinda like "valve job " the latitude of work can be real wide .

"works like a ring and valve job while you drive!" That just popped into my head...

 

[Ryjedavis]

Thanks all! Super helpful. This is my first time doing any internal engine work so 1) trying to not mess anything up and 2) trying to not look like an idiot with the machine shop.

I called a local shop with good reviews, and they quoted me 2400-2800 for everything (depending on brand of pistons and parts - I’m replacing everything except crankshaft and main caps). Parts were 1000-1400 of that total. Keep in mind this is just for the short block - I plan on putting a Clearwater head on it so don’t need any head work done. They didn’t break down the price, and I didn’t ask too much in order to avoid giving away the fact this is my first time talking to a machine shop. It seemed kind of steep to me. I think I can buy quality parts off rockauto much cheaper. If I have them do the machine work only, I ask them for :

Clean, prep, and magnaflux the block
Mill for oversize pistons
Line hone the crank and camshaft journals.
Measure for bearing clearances on the crank and rod bearings.
Install cam bearings and freeze plugs
Press pistons onto rods
Balance the crankshaft/rotating assembly

Anything else the shop normally does. Do they normally resurface the deck?

Really appreciate the advice - I’m sure these are simple questions for those with more experience. I’m watching all the rebuild videos I can find.

 

[John Cooper]

Anything else the shop normally does. Do they normally resurface the deck?

They should but I would double check.

Price doesn't seem to bad to me, are they installing the head also?

 

[ColoJeep]

Thanks all! Super helpful. This is my first time doing any internal engine work so 1) trying to not mess anything up and 2) trying to not look like an idiot with the machine shop.

I called a local shop with good reviews, and they quoted me 2400-2800 for everything (depending on brand of pistons and parts - I’m replacing everything except crankshaft and main caps). Parts were 1000-1400 of that total. Keep in mind this is just for the short block - I plan on putting a Clearwater head on it so don’t need any head work done. They didn’t break down the price, and I didn’t ask too much in order to avoid giving away the fact this is my first time talking to a machine shop. It seemed kind of steep to me. I think I can buy quality parts off rockauto much cheaper. If I have them do the machine work only, I ask them for :

Clean, prep, and magnaflux the block
Mill for oversize pistons
Line hone the crank and camshaft journals.
Measure for bearing clearances on the crank and rod bearings.
Install cam bearings and freeze plugs
Press pistons onto rods
Balance the crankshaft/rotating assembly

Anything else the shop normally does. Do they normally resurface the deck?

Really appreciate the advice - I’m sure these are simple questions for those with more experience. I’m watching all the rebuild videos I can find.

Sounds good ! Clevite rod , cam and main bearings ? Whose pistons and rings ?

 

[Ryjedavis]

I don’t think so - I just told them I’d buy a complete head online. I’m sure they would if I asked them. They seem to know what they are doing, and the online reviews are mostly positive. If you don’t think that’s high maybe I’ll have them do it all just to avoid me screwing something up.

Thanks again!

BTW - I’ve owed this Jeep since 2002, and it’s been my daily driver the whole time. It’s the only car I’ve owned since college (my wife has gone through multiple vehicles). I drove it to OTS when I joined the military many years ago, and I always wanted to drive it to my retirement. I came home and told my youngest daughter it finally died, and she cried for an hour. Here’s the homage to the Jeep (the ducks are my daughters - not something I would put there. ). I’m much older now than the pics in the video. Thanks for helping me bring her back to life!


View: %5BURL%5Dhttps://youtu.be/k-cMPilxw6U?si=583VKv0JAIfLEIyX[/URL]

 

[Ryjedavis]

Sounds good ! Clevite rod , cam and main bearings ? Whose pistons and rings ?

Sounds good ! Clevite rod , cam and main bearings ? Whose pistons and rings ?

Their price included all their parts. If I had them just do the machine work I’d buy the pistons and rings and bring to them. It sounds like the 2800 included upgraded pistons and some of their preferred parts, and the 2400 was an enginetech master rebuild kit.

 

[BlueC]

$2,400-2,800 sounds like a good deal for a short block. If they have good reviews, I'd let them do it.

I do suggest that you inquire with them about a fully assembled engine, and if that would have any kind of warranty. I would also check with at least one other shop, but I think that's goin to be a good, pretty average price.

If you go trying to mix and match buying different parts you really need to know some things beforehand, and often inexperienced guys wind up buying the same parts 2 or 3 times before they get it right. For example, if the cylinders are cut for cast rings and you supply molys, well you just fucked up and the cylinder will have to be honed again to a different finish. Supply forged pistons where stock cast were expected and you guessed it, back to the boring machine. Bottom line is, if you want them to use certain brands/parts, that needs to be discussed and on paper up front before any real work is done. If they order the parts, it's on them. If you supply the parts, its on you. I highly suggest that you figure out what you think you want, discuss that with the builder and put it on paper, and let them do the rest.

 

[BlueC]

@Ryjedavis with this many kids, you might need a different vehicle, maybe an Excursion would fit better.

 

[GoldenGorilla]

For $1400, why not these parts?
https://www.cleggengine.com/jeep-4-0-stroker-kits/stage-2-jeep-stroker-kit-4-6l-8-8-1c-r.html

 

[ColoJeep]

For $1400, why not these parts?
https://www.cleggengine.com/jeep-4-0-stroker-kits/stage-2-jeep-stroker-kit-4-6l-8-8-1c-r.html

Even with some upgrades , it's still under $ 1900.00

 

[BlueC]

@Ryjedavis kind of a random thought, but I do suggest that you replace your harmonic damper (balancer) while your doing all of this. The 20+ year old rubber bonding the original is likely stiff and ready to let go. That's is one place that I think OEM or better is a good spend. No Rock Auto economy parts.