Remove skid plate or not?

Pfarmer

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Burnet, Texas
Long story short:
I had some stuff replaced in the transfer case, transmission oil is brown, and the TCase shifter gets stuck frequently.

So I'm changing Tcase fluid, trans fluid, and installing the Savvy shifter cable.
Seems like a good reason to drop the skid plate.
After a little research, I'm scared. I didn't know that doing it wrong could literally rip your engine mounts off.

Can all this be done with the skid plate on?
Easier if I take it off?
How big of deal is it, where to support the transmission?
Does anything else need supporting?
 
Good time to check the frame in that location too, sometimes rust surprises hiding under there.
 
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Not to take money out of Mr Blaine's pocket but you can also put a couple small tac welds on the nutsert too.
 
Not to take money out of Mr Blaine's pocket but you can also put a couple small tac welds on the nutsert too.
Many don't have a welder and to have someone else weld the nutsert in would cost more than the insert.
Yes, you could weld them in. The main point is if you replace the nutsert, use a quality, heavy duty one like black magic brakes sells and not those thin wall cheap type.

You'd probably find there's not much if any money going into MrBlaines pockets on these nutserts after his cost of the nutsert, free shipping and packaging. Besides, there might be bear traps in those pockets! :LOL:
 
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If you have any nutserts that spin and need to be replaced, make sure to buy the heavy duty nutserts from blackmagicbrakes because they are OEM or better.

Here's the links for an 2002.

Six pack:
https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...utsert-for-87-02-Jeep-YJ-and-TJ-02-NSK-02.htm

Single:
https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...utsert-for-87-02-Jeep-YJ-and-TJ-01-NSK-01.htm
Depending on if you can afford to have the Jeep out of commission for a few days, it might be a good idea to go ahead and order a set of nutserts from BMB in advance (get the installation tool, too!). There is a good chance you'll break at least one bolt or one or more of the factory nutsert will break loose. If it were me, I would probably take the opportunity to replace all the nutserts while I had the pan off.
 
I removed the Skid plate on mine last week to work on the TC linkage, all I had to do was to put a jack under the transmission to hold it up. Piece of cake, remove the 6 bolts to the chassis and the 4 nuts that hold the TC mount to the plate.
 
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Ok, thanks for all the input...about to get started, BUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There are some spacers between the skid plate and the frame. Also, the bolts to the transmission mount are recessed quite a bit. I'm assuming there is a spacer there also.

When I got this Jeep, there was a very poorly installed 5" lift. Literally 3" springs, 2" spacers and 35" wheels, DPA, and the skid plate spacers. NOTHING ELSE.

I've since had everything redone by a pro. 3.5" lift, CV drive shaft, adjustable control arms, SYE, etc. I'm assuming I can remove the spacers?
Anything I need to measure to make sure?
 
If you pull the spacers you'll need to adjust the control arms or have somebody do it. I'm assuming if removing the skid is causing you some anxiety you might have issues with the control arms. It's all something most people can tackle but you don't simply remove the spacers and drive away, you have to set the angles after you change the skid height.
 
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The spacers were likely there to control driveline vibration. Try it without them and see if you have an issue.
 
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