Removing the grille

Chris

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I've never removed the grille on my TJ before, but I'm going to be installing my new supercharger kit, which requires putting the heat exchanger in front of the A/C condenser. At the same time, I'll be putting in my Griffin aluminum radiator and SPAL electric fan (since the stock fan won't work with the supercharger).

My understanding is that the grill comes off by removing the 6 bolts that attache the radiator to it, removing the support rod bolts that bolt to the top of it, and then removing the bolts inside of the inner fenders.

Is there anything else I'm leaving out? My bumper is already off, so that makes it easier.
 
I've never removed the grille on my TJ before, but I'm going to be installing my new supercharger kit, which requires putting the heat exchanger in front of the A/C condenser. At the same time, I'll be putting in my Griffin aluminum radiator and SPAL electric fan (since the stock fan won't work with the supercharger).

My understanding is that the grill comes off by removing the 6 bolts that attache the radiator to it, removing the support rod bolts that bolt to the top of it, and then removing the bolts inside of the inner fenders.

Is there anything else I'm leaving out? My bumper is already off, so that makes it easier.
The center body mount bolt.
 
I'd try slipping it in rather than removing the grill. If you do need to, make sure you support the AC condenser.

Why won't the stock fan work? If the intercooler is going in front of the current radiator stack?
 
I'd try slipping it in rather than removing the grill. If you do need to, make sure you support the AC condenser.

Why won't the stock fan work? If the intercooler is going in front of the current radiator stack?

I may be able to slip the heat exchanger in without removing the grille, I’ll have to try. The instructions show it being removed, but it never hurts to try.

The stock fan won’t work because the supercharger has its own independent drive belt. The pulley for it stacks on top of the crank pulley, and the stock fan will hit it.

Therefore it requires a SPAL electric fan as it’s much narrower.

If you watch this video of the supercharger, you'll see it's independent belt drive system:

 
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I may be able to slip the heat exchanger in without removing the grille, I’ll have to try. The instructions show it being removed, but it never hurts to try.

The stock fan won’t work because the supercharger has its own independent drive belt. The pulley for it stacks on top of the crank pulley, and the stock fan will hit it.

Therefore it requires a SPAL electric fan as it’s much narrower.
The problem trying to slip it in. You have a better chance of damaging the ac coils or the heat exchanger coils. It might take a little longer to remove the grill but its cheaper then breaking something.
 
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The problem trying to slip it in. You have a better chance of damaging the ac coils or the heat exchanger coils. It might take a little longer to remove the grill but its cheaper then breaking something.

I had thought about that as well. If the radiator is already out and the bumper is off, I can't imagine at this point that removing the grille would be that much extra work anyways. Not to mention it will give me more room, since I've got to add the supercharger drive pulley onto the crankshaft pulley as well.
 
The water radiator for my intercooler goes in front of the radiator as you're describing. I pulled the radiator and installed it without removing the grill. Very easy. If you want to pull the grill to make the SC install easier, that OK. Just saying, it may not be necessary. My intercooler is air/water, so the radiator is about the same size as the air conditioning condenser. If yours is air/air, it will probably be substantially larger.

I've got a Banks Intercooled turbo on my rig, we'll have to run 'em side by side after you get your 'charger dialed in. :-)
 
The water radiator for my intercooler goes in front of the radiator as you're describing. I pulled the radiator and installed it without removing the grill. Very easy. If you want to pull the grill to make the SC install easier, that OK. Just saying, it may not be necessary. My intercooler is air/water, so the radiator is about the same size as the air conditioning condenser. If yours is air/air, it will probably be substantially larger.

I've got a Banks Intercooled turbo on my rig, we'll have to run 'em side by side after you get your 'charger dialed in. :)

Mine is also air-to-water. It's the heat exchanger that goes in front of the grille, which then moves the coolant to the aftercooler (superchargers don't have intercoolers) which is sitting on top of the throttle body.

The heat exchanger is about the size of the A/C condenser as well, so you're right, I may be able to do it without removing the grill.

Once I get it all tuned I'll post up some dyno numbers, but from what it looks like, I should be at about 250hp at the wheels, which is pretty good considering that the 4.0 puts down about 135 (conservatively speaking) at the wheels stock.

Have you had any issues with yours overheating with the intercooler in front of the radiator? I bought the 1602 CFM Spal fan to push as much air as I can through there just incase. I shouldn't have any issues, as this fan moves a lot more air than the one that typically comes with the kit.
 
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Mine is also air-to-water. It's the heat exchanger that goes in front of the grille, which then moves the coolant to the aftercooler (superchargers don't have intercoolers) which is sitting on top of the throttle body.

The heat exchanger is about the size of the A/C condenser as well, so you're right, I may be able to do it without removing the grill.

Once I get it all tuned I'll post up some dyno numbers, but from what it looks like, I should be at about 250hp at the wheels, which is pretty good considering that the 4.0 puts down about 135 (conservatively speaking) at the wheels stock.

Have you had any issues with yours overheating with the intercooler in front of the radiator? I bought the 1602 CFM Spal fan to push as much air as I can through there just incase. I shouldn't have any issues, as this fan moves a lot more air than the one that typically comes with the kit.

I'm still running the stock radiator and fan, and have not had any cooling issues even on the hottest days. Here's a link to the Banks Intercooler installation manual. It shows how to mount the intercooler radiator behind the grill without removing the grill. It may or may not be helpful with your setup.

Once you start compressing the intake air, you may want to start monitoring the intake air temp. To do that, I added a ScanGuage. The ScanGuage plugs into the OBDII port and allows me to monitor any of the sensors on the vehicle. I set it to monitor coolant and intake air temps, instant mpg, and mph. (you can add a correction factor in the ScanGuage to compensate for different tire size. Now that I've added a SpeedoHealer, I don't need to monitor mph on the ScanGuage any more). You can also input the amount of fuel you add when you fill up, after adding that information a few times it adjusts the ScanGuage to give a pretty accurate mpg.

I custom mounted mine in the windshield header, which is easier than it sounds. Take off the visors and pop off the plastic cover. Trace the outline of the ScanGuage on the inside of the plastic cover and cut it out with a razor knife. Take your time and cut a little less than you think you need - you can always cut more but it's hard to put it back if you cut too much. Use a file to shave off material until you have the fit you want. What you are aiming for is a press fit where the ScanGuage is held tightly in place with no fasteners. Once you're satisfied with the fit put the ScanGuage in place and use a straight edge to make it flush with the plastic cover. Then on the backside lay a thick bead of black RTV silicone sealant - the press fit combined with the sealant will keep it in place over the roughest terrain, and the black sealant will hide any little mistakes in the fit. Pull the plastic cover off the driver's side A-pillar. Run the cable for the ScanGuage under the left side of the windshield cover and pop it back in place. Run the cable down the driver's side A-pillar and pop that cover in place. Pop off the plastic dash cover at the base of the windshield, run the cable down behind the instrument cluster, and put the cover back in. Then route the cable to the OBDII port and plug it in. Like I said, it's easier than it sounds, just take your time when cutting the hole for the ScanGuage to get the correct fit, the rest is just routing a wire behind plastic panels.

ScanGuage monitoring WaterTemp, IntakeAir, MPH, and MPG
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Intercooler water radiator
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closeup
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Quick question: Can the grill still be removed easily if the front bumper is on?