Replacing steering dampener (Why is this such a nightmare?)

TrueTexas

TrueTexas

TJ Enthusiast
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Feb 7, 2019
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The Woodlands, TX
All, I have spent the better part of the day trying to replace the Steering Dampener. Its only 2 bolts and the Jeep has no rust, this should have been easy.

For the life of me, I cannot get the bolt out of the Drag Link. I have tried multiple methods, including the one that @Jerry has recommended for years of hitting the drag link to the side of the bolt with a 3lb sledge. Yes, I put real muscle into it. :) . It didn't pop out. I think it actually laughed at me.

I also threaded the castle nut on and tried to hit it with the 3lb sledge. I only succeeded in removing the threads from the castle nut.

I have soaked it down with PB blaster and used my Ball Joint remover and Pitman Arm Puller. Ball joint remover did nothing. Even got the breaker bar on the Pitman Arm Puller and that only resulting in breaking one of the ears off of it. So I guess I no longer have that tool.

I feel like drilling the thing out will only make a mess of it as it is a tapered bolt. I don't want to be left with a "sleeve" that wont come out.

Any other thoughts as to how to get this thing separated?
 
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Yeah.,..use the torch to get it hot , then put the puller on it....maybe torch and puller at the same time...or the torch and hammer.
 
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The pitman arm puller worked fine for me, but obviously YMMV. Yea, I'd heat it with another pitman puller - be sure to use never seize when you reassemble.
 
No need for a torch. Use a BFH (BIG fucking hammer) to bang on the SIDE of the drag link next to where the stud passes through it. Do not bang on the end of the stud which will just mushroom the stud and make it even harder to remove.
 
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TrueTexas said:
including the one that @Jerry has recommended for years of hitting the drag link to the side of the bolt with a 3lb sledge. Yes, I put real muscle into it. :) . It didn't pop out. I think it actually laughed at me.
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Jerry Bransford said:
No need for a torch. Use a BFH (BIG fucking hammer) to bang on the SIDE of the drag link next to where the stud passes through it.
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He's been down that road. It don't work. Don't fear the torch, it works and causes less stress to the surrounding components. I'll never understand why people fear the torch, it's kinda pretty.
 
As Jerry mentioned a BFH is your best friend for this. Heat, penetrating oil and the hammer.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
A BFH on the side adjacent to where the stud passes through DOES work extremely well if you do it right and aren't a sissy with the BFH. Period. A torch can destroy the heat treatment of the component.
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I agree that it works, and have used that method with success before. There is nothing "sissy" about the way I was pounding on it with a 3lb sledge. Must have hit (hard) it about 100 times. just doesn't want to move no matter what.
You would think that thing was welded in there. Only negative with this method on that particular bolt is that you can only hit it on one side as the other links and axle are in the way when trying to get at it from the back.
 
@pagrey the torch is ready to go but I think I'll give it a go with another Pitman arm puller after the penetrating oil has had some more time to do its work. If it still doesnt want to move, heat will be my next move.

The Pitman actually fit really nicely and I was hopeful it would work. I probably shouldn't have pressed my luck with putting the breaker bar on it. Although I thought for sure the bolt would go.

@Zorba +1 on the anti-seize. Nice thing with the new stabilizer is that I can pull it off without having to remove the bolt since it is threaded on the other end.
 
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If you have any acetone and automatic trans fluid, a 50/50 mix makes a great penetrating oil. I've used it several times Kroil is the best prepackaged kind I've found. I've never seen it locally in my area though, had to get it on Amazon.
 
@pagrey I am no metallurgist, although my father has a Master's in Metallurgy. But I wont be asking him as I will get a 2 hour dissertation on annealing, normalizing, hardening, tempering etc...

Agree that heating to the point where any of these processes take place is not the goal, I believe you are suggesting to heat up the drag link to get it to expand a tiny bit to release the bolt. Kind of the inverse of freezing a bearing to make installation easier.
 
MountaineerTom said:
If you have any acetone and automatic trans fluid, a 50/50 mix makes a great penetrating oil. I've used it several times Kroil is the best prepackaged kind I've found. I've never seen it locally in my area though, had to get it on Amazon.
Click to expand...

I believe I actually have both of those things but wife may be pissed if I steal her nail polish remover 🤫
 
Ed's Red!

As for the pitman arm puller, maybe this will help (or maybe not!): I had hit mine with a BFH after soaking it with P-Blaster, with the usual non-results. Came in and googled the problem, which lead to a thread about it here, which sent me off to Hazard Fraught for the puller. Got back, put it on, tightened it up as tight as a 3/8" ratchet handle would go, when it started trying to rain. I crawled out from under the Jeep to close the windows on same, when I heard "POP!". Something either broke or broke loose - fortunately, it was the latter. So it may not be necessary to wail on the puller, just good and tight and give it a moment or two...
 
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Zorba said:
Ed's Red!

As for the pitman arm puller, maybe this will help (or maybe not!): I had hit mine with a BFH after soaking it with P-Blaster, with the usual non-results. Came in and googled the problem, which lead to a thread about it here, which sent me off to Hazard Fraught for the puller. Got back, put it on, tightened it up as tight as a 3/8" ratchet handle would go, when it started trying to rain. I crawled out from under the Jeep to close the windows on same, when I heard "POP!". Something either broke or broke loose - fortunately, it was the latter. So it may not be necessary to wail on the puller, just good and tight and give it a moment or two...
Click to expand...

That's a good idea. Just let it sit with pressure on it. I'm gonna do that.
 
Zorba said:
Then heat it if it doesn't go...
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Exactly. time then heat. I will be reporting back on here.

Crazy part is not a single other bolt on this entire vehicle has given me any problems. Even the nutserts on the flares all unbolted perfectly, as did every single bolt and nut when I replaced the clutch.
 
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