Rock Slider Recommendations for 06 LJ

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mrblaine said:
I think most that want a step overlook that very thing. I've shown lots of folks that to step up on the step requires that you lift your foot higher than the floorboard. It has never made sense to me to step up and then step down into the rig.
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I'm 5'6" and 78 years old. Can get my foot over the sill fairly easily at stock ride height on my LJ. Increased to 32" tires and now it's a lot easier to use the step to get over the door silll. It's not the floor board that makes us height challenged people have difficulty getting into a TJ/LJ, it's getting the foot over the sill to get to the floor board that's the challenge. Just added a 1 1/4" body lift in prep for a tummy tuck and adding a 2" spring lift to fit 33" tires. Will probably have to use the OEM step or Mountain Off Road retractable step if the factory step takes too many hits.
 
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roverhi said:
I'm 5'6" and 78 years old. Can get my foot over the sill fairly easily at stock ride height on my LJ. Increased to 32" tires and now it's a lot easier to use the step to get over the door silll. It's not the floor board that makes us height challenged people have difficulty getting into a TJ/LJ, it's getting the foot over the sill to get to the floor board that's the challenge. Just added a 1 1/4" body lift in prep for a tummy tuck and adding a 2" spring lift to fit 33" tires. Will probably have to use the OEM step or Mountain Off Road retractable step if the factory step takes too many hits.
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Put big tyres on it they said. It will be fun they said.
 
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RINC said:
Put big tyres on it they said. It will be fun they said.
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Gene Wilder Oompa Loompa GIF
 
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bluescapegoat said:
I posted in the main rocker thread just a bit ago, but I've got a set of Poison Spyder stupid rockers that I've been thinking about modifying to at least be a bit less shitty until I can get my hands on the Savvys.

My thought was to cut off the tube steps, add a backing plate inside the tub, maybe a couple more through bolts to clamp further down on the armor from inside the foot well, and cut around the body mounts and use 3 or 4 nutserts in the torque box where it actually makes contact.

Thoughts?
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Id add the backing plate. I’d cut around the body mounts and add 7-8 nutserts in the torque boxes.

I’d probably leave the step if I was switching to Savvy’s. That way the still look presentable and you could sell them easier later. It’s also just for a little while. No big deal

Edit: I looked at your other post. I saw the pic of the slider. Yeah, not much metal underneath. You could only get 3-4 nutserts in there. 🙁 Not sure it’s even worth all the work. Someone else in that thread modified the PS.
 
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JMT said:
Id add the backing plate. I’d cut around the body mounts and add 7-8 nutserts in the torque boxes.

I’d probably leave the step if I was switching to Savvy’s. That way the still look presentable and you could sell them easier later. It’s also just for a little while. No big deal

Edit: I looked at your other post. I saw the pic of the slider. Yeah, not much metal underneath. You could only get 3-4 nutserts in there. 🙁 Not sure it’s even worth all the work. Someone else in that thread modified the PS.
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Yeah, theirs looked like a different PS slider if I recall, it runs the full length. I read through that entire thread yesterday.

Worth the effort it is not, but I'm certainly not hacking up my new body mounts or body lift. I guess the alternative is just running naked for a while, which I don't particularly like.

If only there was a company that made a good product and was willing to take my money :unsure:

For the sake of the conversation here's the set of "sliders" I have:

14-08-060-2.jpg
 
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bluescapegoat said:
If only there was a company that made a good product and was willing to take my money :unsure:
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I find myself saying the exact thing often

Give a look at Cav Fab. It’s on the top of my list right now for best value. They’re not WW2WW and require adding a bolts and nutserts to the under side of the tub in the torque boxes but for $400 shipped to you they seem hard to beat.
 
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Bowhunter said:
I find myself saying the exact thing often

Give a look at Cav Fab. It’s on the top of my list right now for best value. They’re not WW2WW and require adding a bolts and nutserts to the under side of the tub in the torque boxes but for $400 shipped to you they seem hard to beat.
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Arnt they 250 for a tj? Where does it fail to be ww2ww? Also interested in them to replace my e auto grills sliders that I hate in every way
 
The4bangertj said:
Arnt they 250 for a tj? Where does it fail to be ww2ww? Also interested in them to replace my e auto grills sliders that I hate in every way
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It looks like they go to the rear wheel well but stop short at the front. There's more info on them in the main rocker thread, although limited.

I'd hate to spend money on a stop-gap rocker. I figured when I go ww2ww with the Savvy I'd be going to new corner armor blanks (if those are ever available hahaha) and zero flare front fenders
 
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The4bangertj said:
Arnt they 250 for a tj? Where does it fail to be ww2ww? Also interested in them to replace my e auto grills sliders that I hate in every way
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$250 plus shipping (not cheap or free like others)

Like 75% ish sliders on the market they do not cover the last few inches of body sheet metal that are under stock fender flares. If you use metal flares it becomes WW2WW

Here’s a pic they sent me when I asked showing the underneath coverage which looks to be pretty good to me.

To add more bolts into the torque boxes one will need to add more pieces of metal to ensure contact between the slider (which is straight) and the torque boxes which is angled (see the main rock slider thread, I recently discussed this with JMT).

IMG_3372.png
 
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bluescapegoat said:
It looks like they go to the rear wheel well but stop short at the front. There's more info on them in the main rocker thread, although limited
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Gotcha. Ya seems the rear is good which is my biggest concern since mine now are 6in shy. Fronts are cut for fender flares which isn’t preferred but I’d assume I’d need to when I swap anyways. For the cost, then add a backer and a few nutserts seems like a solid option.
 
bluescapegoat said:
I posted in the main rocker thread just a bit ago, but I've got a set of Poison Spyder stupid rockers that I've been thinking about modifying to at least be a bit less shitty until I can get my hands on the Savvys.

My thought was to cut off the tube steps, add a backing plate inside the tub, maybe a couple more through bolts to clamp further down on the armor from inside the foot well, and cut around the body mounts and use 3 or 4 nutserts in the torque box where it actually makes contact.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

I did that to mine other than removing the steps I have some pictures and how I went about it if you are interested.
 
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NskLJ said:
I did that to mine other than removing the steps I have some pictures and how I went about it if you are interested.
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Yeah I'm totally interested if you've got a link or something. Did you do it to the ones like the photo above that only run for a partial section of the torque box or did you have longer ones?

I need to take some measurements when I get home today, I might pull the trigger on the Cav Fab. Need to see how bad I'll have to hack up my poison spyder corner armor to make them work. Was hoping I'd be able to sell those second hand...
 
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bluescapegoat said:
Yeah I'm totally interested if you've got a link or something. Did you do it to the ones like the photo above that only run for a partial section of the torque box or did you have longer ones?

I need to take some measurements when I get home today, I might pull the trigger on the Cav Fab. Need to see how bad I'll have to hack up my poison spyder corner armor to make them work. Was hoping I'd be able to sell those second hand...
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I removed them off the body mounts, attached to front and rear torque boxes, added a backing plate and cut some of the excess metal off lightening them up by about 4 lbs a side.
 
bluescapegoat said:
Yeah I'm totally interested if you've got a link or something. Did you do it to the ones like the photo above that only run for a partial section of the torque box or did you have longer ones?

I need to take some measurements when I get home today, I might pull the trigger on the Cav Fab. Need to see how bad I'll have to hack up my poison spyder corner armor to make them work. Was hoping I'd be able to sell those second hand...
Click to expand...
bluescapegoat said:
Yeah I'm totally interested if you've got a link or something. Did you do it to the ones like the photo above that only run for a partial section of the torque box or did you have longer ones?

I need to take some measurements when I get home today, I might pull the trigger on the Cav Fab. Need to see how bad I'll have to hack up my poison spyder corner armor to make them work. Was hoping I'd be able to sell those second hand...
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Here you go!
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/modifying-ps-sliders.71123/
 
bluescapegoat said:
Ah yeah, I did see your post before. Different rockers than the ones I have. Thanks for the link.

I just pulled the trigger on the Cav Fabs to see what I can do with them. I'm not sure anybody else has yet...?
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One other guy in the rockslider thread bought them but hasn’t had time to follow up with additional info

Just a heads up, the Cavfab only use 4 bolts into the torque boxes, they would benefit from more bolts using nutserts in the torque boxes (with metal plate spacers so the slider is in contact with the torque boxes)

Definitely let us know when you get them and when you install them! I’m very tempted to buy a set from CabFab but I’m being picky because I plan on using my sliders quite frequently
 
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