Who out there knows if you can move your axles up and back just by turning the sleeve on double adjustable arms while on full load and not have to take anything else off to do it
Rockjock control arm adjustment
- Thread starter gatertamer
- Start date
In theory I guess you could but you'd be shooting from the hip for where you're putting it. I usually set the starting point for the axle fore-aft location with the springs out and lining up the bump stops at full bump. Then I set axle center and caster/pinion at ride height sitting on its own weight. I'll make fine tuning adjustments to the wheelbase only to make sure the axle is square, but that's usually only about 1 or 2 turns.
OP
Yes, you can physically move things around that way. But you won't know if you are adjusting your way into an interference unless you have already cycled the axle without springs and know where things are relative to other things.
Right, but the axle follows the arc of the control arms, so lining it up at ride height doesn't mean they'll line up when they make contact, performing their function, which is what matters.
Adjust for that at full shock compression. Close enough is good enough. Centering the tire in the wheel opening at full shock compression is generally ideal.
OP
Chris, please issue a permit to move the axle up to 3/8” with the springs in. Have him sign a waiver.
I’m lurking here to learn; I hope to be setting up my new fully adjustable control arms soon. Good intel … since I’m doing springs, shocks and sway bar end links at the same time as the CAs I’ll cycle the suspension without springs to align bump stops at full compression by adjusting CAs, then tighten everything up if it looks good at ride height. Right?
You guys use anti-seize on the adjusting threads of the CAs and red Loctite on the fastening nuts that attach the CAs to the frame/axle, right?
You guys use anti-seize on the adjusting threads of the CAs and red Loctite on the fastening nuts that attach the CAs to the frame/axle, right?
OP
OP
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
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For the mounting bolts, 7/16 upper bolts = 50 ft lbs. 9/16 lowers = 90 ft lbs.
Rock Jock has .pdf versions of their instructions on their website.
Rock Jock has .pdf versions of their instructions on their website.
OP
I use anti seize on all of it, no loctite. But don't go crazy with the antiseize, it should be on the threads, but not all over where the nut and bolt head contacts the bracket.
I save the loctite for a handful of specific spots like ring gear bolts and wheel spacer lug nuts.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
You could use a crows foot on a torque wrench as long as you have is straight and inline with the body of the torque wrench, for an accurate reading, but you don’t need to.
Just tighten the jam nuts as tight and you can get them. If you want, check them occasionally for looseness. You probably won’t find any loose and then you won’t have to worry about it.
OP