Rubicon Dana 44 Axle Seal Replacements

JeepinK4

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I used the search but could not find what i was looking for. I apologize if i failed on the searching end of it and this has already been discussed. If so if anyone could point me in the right direction i would appreciate it. I need some help identifying which parts i need to collect to replace my leaking axle seals on my 2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. I have leaks on both axles so i was going to just do all 4 while at it. Is there anything else i should replace while i have it apart? Any part numbers would be helpful and any brands recommended or ones i should stay away from. Thanks in advance.
 
Those seals say they are for Dana 30. Will they still work for the Dana 44's i have?

The one nice thing about how Jeep modified Dana 44 axles for the front of our rubi TJs is they used the same set up at a 30! Almost everything is the same, that’s why we can use the same steering and other components as normal tjs besides gears and axle shafts!
 
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Yes, they are the same. The Rubicon Dana 44 is a Dana 30 with a bigger pinion and a factory locker, that's all.
So those seals will work for both the front and rear axles and all i would need besides the seals are a SET10 Bearing kit for the rear?
 
So those seals will work for both the front and rear axles and all i would need besides the seals are a SET10 Bearing kit for the rear?
This is what I used on my '03 Rubicon:

Front - Spicer inner axle seal 54381 (qty 2)
Mopar axle shaft guide 68002412aa (qty 2) - not required but makes re-installation of the front shafts without damaging your newly installed seals a little easier

Rear - Timken Set 10 bearings (qty 2) and Timken 9912s seals (qty2)

Just making sure, you are aware that the new rear bearings will need to be pressed on, right?
 
This is what I used on my '03 Rubicon:

Front - Spicer inner axle seal 54381 (qty 2)
Mopar axle shaft guide 68002412aa (qty 2) - not required but makes re-installation of the front shafts without damaging your newly installed seals a little easier

Rear - Timken Set 10 bearings (qty 2) and Timken 9912s seals (qty2)

Just making sure, you are aware that the new rear bearings will need to be pressed on, right?
Yes i realize that the old ones will have to be removed and the new ones pressed on. Thanks for your help.
 
The one nice thing about how Jeep modified Dana 44 axles for the front of our rubi TJs is they used the same set up at a 30! Almost everything is the same, that’s why we can use the same steering and other components as normal tjs besides gears and axle shafts!
Everything except the seals for the larger 30 spline shafts in the 44. The only interchangeable inner axle seals that the 30 uses are the ones used with a Super 30 which uses the seals from the Dana 44 front.
 
Shafts, it is the shafts that are the problem. 27 spline versus 30 spline.
MrBlaine,
So if i use the following i will be good to go for my 2003 Rubicon?
Front - Spicer inner axle seal 54381 (qty 2)
Mopar axle shaft guide 68002412aa (qty 2) - not required but makes re-installation of the front shafts without damaging your newly installed seals a little easier

Rear - Timken Set 10 bearings (qty 2) and Timken 9912s seals (qty2)
 
MrBlaine,
So if i use the following i will be good to go for my 2003 Rubicon?
Front - Spicer inner axle seal 54381 (qty 2)
Mopar axle shaft guide 68002412aa (qty 2) - not required but makes re-installation of the front shafts without damaging your newly installed seals a little easier

Rear - Timken Set 10 bearings (qty 2) and Timken 9912s seals (qty2)
I don't know Mopar numbers. I use whatever I get from my gear guy but I would trust the post above on them. The guides are not needed. I have a stock we pull out and never put back if you want some free ones. Seals don't need the guides, they have a forcing cone that prevents damage.

I prefer the 9912S Timken seal and the Set 10 bearings for the rear Dana 44 shafts, so those are good. Make sure the bearing sets include shaft collars.
 
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Hey guys, gonna thread jack this rather than starting a new one. I seem to be having a major problem getting my rear axle seals to hold on a Dana 44. My buddy's shop has replaced the seals 3 times. The first time they couldn't get the bearing to seat correctly, so they installed a new axle shaft. Since that first time, they've installed two more new seals (and bearings), and it's still leaking, but its leaking from the inside of the dust shield (I think that's what it is). Check out the pic. What does everyone think about this? Bad axle shaft? Bad choice of seals/bearings? Wrong parts? Could a clogged breather be causing this? This is crazy because there has been 3 repairs made on this. Other side is not leaking


5e260abc758f37c9aff420b083b925c0.jpg
9e08affa4941ec6f2f15fcae7e534aaa.jpg
 
All that keeps the oil in is the seal. Is yours a Rubicon or a Sport, the axles are different diameters. We did my Rubicon last month. They ordered the TJ seal, not the TJR seal, the axle kept pushing the seal out. You might have the opposite problem.
 
All that keeps the oil in is the seal. Is yours a Rubicon or a Sport, the axles are different diameters. We did my Rubicon last month. They ordered the TJ seal, not the TJR seal, the axle kept pushing the seal out. You might have the opposite problem.
Nope, not true at all. All TJ rear Dana 44 axle shafts are interchangeable and use the same Set 10 bearing, seal, and shaft collar. The two differences that don't affect fitment are wheel stud length and axle retainer. Disc brakes use a retainer with an extended lip on it to compensate for the difference in thickness between the cast backing plate for disc brakes and the stamped steel thinner backing plate for drum brakes. Drum uses a flat retainer, disc uses the one with the lip on it. They are not interchangeable by application and have to be used with the backing plates on the axle housing.

If you swap the retainer, you can move any Dana 44 rear OEM axle between any year housing regardless of model.
If you do a rear drum to disc swap, you will need to use the appropriate retainer but the axle shafts stay the same.

I suspect they used the flat retainers on your shafts which allowed the shafts to move in and out just under a quarter inch and they leak like sieves when that happens.
 
True. If you have rear disk brakes but someone mistakenly installed a flat axle retainer bracket made for drum brakes, the seal will fall out place and the housing will leak like crazy.

This shows the correct axle shaft retainer bracket for disk brakes. Its raised lip is what holds the seal in place to prevent leaks.

CIMG1231.JPG
 
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OK, I'll let you guys replace my seals next time. I'm thinking the OP has a Dana 30/35 not a Dana 44. But have at 'er. Are we sure he has a Dana 44? OR, did he get the wrong parts? Other than his name nothing in his profile says he's driving a Rubi. flat out, a Dana 44 seal will seal a Dana 44.... if it is installed correctly.

And I understand the retainer thing but when we ordered seals, all we got was seals, not a new retainer.

Me, I'd be trying a new shop. Replacing axle seals is a pretty simple job.
 
OK, I'll let you guys replace my seals next time. I'm thinking the OP has a Dana 30/35 not a Dana 44. But have at 'er. Are we sure he has a Dana 44? OR, did he get the wrong parts? Other than his name nothing in his profile says he's driving a Rubi. flat out, a Dana 44 seal will seal a Dana 44.... if it is installed correctly.

And I understand the retainer thing but when we ordered seals, all we got was seals, not a new retainer.

Me, I'd be trying a new shop. Replacing axle seals is a pretty simple job.

I have a Dana 44. I have a 2003 Rubicon. I put it in my sig. Sorry, I'm new here and havent updated a lot of info. My buddy's shop is a good one, but they're not a jeep shop, so I feel like it might be easy to overlook a specific model's requirements like that. What exactly are some of the things I should be making sure are installed with the seal/backing plate? I agree that replacing an axle seal is not a difficult or complex task. This is why I'm getting frustrated with it. The next step is doing the repair myself so I can make sure the proper steps are taken and the best parts are used. Do you guys think anything else could be playing a role, or you think it was just a bad install/installation of the wrong parts?