Rubicon OEM locker removal

Pedaltothemetalfitness

Pedaltothemetalfitness

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Alhambra CA
Ok so probably a rookie question here. My inner axle seals have been leaking, but for the life of me I can’t get the carrier to come out so I can get at them. Got the left bearing cap off no problem, but the right is under the clips of the locking mechanism. There must be some trick or something so obvious it’s plain stupid. I’ve been all over forums and YouTube looking for info, but nothing specific to what I have. It’s an ‘03 Rubicon with the stock lockers. It’s also got 240,000 miles so I wonder if it might be time to replace/upgrade, provided I can get the damn thing out! Any thoughts?
 
Don't have a picture in front of me but the only thing I can think of would be removing the air line which is held on by a tension spring is all, that'll allow you to remove the right bearing cap. Can you post a pic?
 
In addition to that information, be aware that your carrier re-installation is not straight forward.

There's a mechanical locker sensor hidden behind the carrier that tells the computer whether the locker is fully engaged or not. It's critical you reinstall the carrier using a trick/technique that allows the sensor to be properly positioned on the correct side of the actuator plate. If you don't it'll jam the locker in a partially engaged position. Very bad news.

It involves a short piece of toothpick with a length of fishing line tied to it used to hold the sensor fully extended while the locker (carrier) is seated. Once the carrier is seated you pull on the fishing line to pull the toothpick out to release the sensor.

It's hard to describe in words, I'll post a few pics tomorrow to show what I'm talking about.
 
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Thanks for chiming in guys. I had to close it back up because I need to drive it this week. So for the moment I’ll just keep topping off the oil from time to time like I’ve been. I have seen the toothpick trick online, so I was aware of it. However I think I might be in a little over my head with this one and it might be time to delegate to a pro. Bummer as I do prefer to do my own work as much as possible. But going forward, I assume it’s possible to convert to a standard diff as opposed to a locker? I know it sounds like a downgrade but I hardly ever use it.
 
Pedaltothemetalfitness said:
Thanks for chiming in guys. I had to close it back up because I need to drive it this week. So for the moment I’ll just keep topping off the oil from time to time like I’ve been. I have seen the toothpick trick online, so I was aware of it. However I think I might be in a little over my head with this one and it might be time to delegate to a pro. Bummer as I do prefer to do my own work as much as possible. But going forward, I assume it’s possible to convert to a standard diff as opposed to a locker? I know it sounds like a downgrade but I hardly ever use it.
Click to expand...

I just put mine back together this weekend. I think handing it off to a pro might be a good idea since getting it back in without damaging the shims could be quite difficult without a case spreader and since its a daily you probably don't want down time. (mine has about 3 paper thin shims) Removing the locker would be more work then its worth. If you get stuck your never going to say "man I wish I didn't have a locker".

After you get it back make sure your light switch still works on the locker to confirm the tech new the toothpick trick.
 
From what I recall removing the two bolts securing the bearing cap on the right is all that is needed, along with removing the air line. The nipple/actuator plate is held on by a ring which is bolted to the carrier via the bearing cap bolts. What Ive done in the past is place a closed wrench on a carrier bolt, then grab a cheater bar and turn the pinion, that will cause the entire assembly to walk out.

20160805_102401.jpg
 
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Remove the bolts. The actuator will capture the bearing cap, but everything slides out together with the rest of the carrier. There is nothing special going on. Just be aware that the shims are outside of the bearings. Don't mix up the shims when they fall out.
 
Here are the photos of the toothpick method of holding the locker sensor fully extended during the carrier installation process. That's the purpose of the toothpick, to hold it fully extended so it can be properly positioned behind the actuator plate.

I don't recall anything about the locker actuator capturing that side's bearing cap. At least on my Rubicon, there were just two carrier shims, one on each side. Just put them back on the same side they came out of and you're good. The drawing shows how the tip of the sensor has to fit over the actuator plate so it's hooked onto the other side so it can tell when the actuator is fully engaged. There's absolutely no need for a case spreader for any of this.

Toothpick-in-carrier-wide-angle.jpg

Toothpick-in-Sensor.jpg


The top item in the below illustration is the sensor.

Rubicon locker sensor drawing by danb303.jpg
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
...

I don't recall anything about the locker actuator capturing that side's bearing cap. At least on my Rubicon,...]
Click to expand...

The bearing cap won't come free until the carrier is removed from the housing. The tabs on the actuator keep it in place until then.
 
jjvw said:
The bearing cap won't come free until the carrier is removed from the housing. The tabs on the actuator keep it in place until then.
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Oh now I get what you're talking about and you are correct. That was never anything I thought much about since the actuator tabs have to be straightened & then re-bent back into position for most jobs.
 
The few times I've pulled the carriers on mine, I have never needed to bend the mounting tabs on the actuators.
 
jjvw said:
The bearing cap won't come free until the carrier is removed from the housing. The tabs on the actuator keep it in place until then.
Click to expand...

Ahh I see now where the concern is now. Either way, walking the carrier out will cause the cap to come with it, along with the retaining ring and tabs.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
You need to bend the tabs out & back in again when removing the carrier bearing on that side like most do for new gears or to replace the actuator.
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I don't recall doing that when we cut the old bearings off during the regear. But I'll trust that there may be a reason to do so.
 
jjvw said:
I don't recall doing that when we cut the old bearings off during the regear. But I'll trust that there may be a reason to do so.
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If you cut the bearings off you wouldn't need to but you do if you use a clamshell puller to remove them as I did. I never thought about cutting them off, I've always used a clamshell puller on carrier bearings.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
If you cut the bearings off you wouldn't need to but you do if you use a clamshell puller to remove them as I did. I never thought about cutting them off, I've always used a clamshell puller on carrier bearings.
Click to expand...
A-ha! The guy with the clam shell puller moved away, so we needed to cut.
 
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