Rubicon Re-Gearing Advice

With all the members on here and many from Colorado, nobody knows anyone close to Parker who does the side job of re-gearing? Seriously there must be someone close by that enjoys doing this or maybe not enjoy it but making a little extra cash to support their hobbies.
 
With all the members on here and many from Colorado, nobody knows anyone close to Parker who does the side job of re-gearing? Seriously there must be someone close by that enjoys doing this or maybe not enjoy it but making a little extra cash to support their hobbies.

🤷 I know somebody
 
With all the members on here and many from Colorado, nobody knows anyone close to Parker who does the side job of re-gearing? Seriously there must be someone close by that enjoys doing this or maybe not enjoy it but making a little extra cash to support their hobbies.
Make sure of two things... 1) that they know what they're doing. Not even all "expert" gear installers get a regearing job right the first time. 2) that they use ONLY (!!!!) a conventional gear lube at least through the critical gear break-in process that includes the initial fill and then a gear lube change typically at 500 miles. Aftermarket gears are not matched to each other so their break-in process is critical, unlike factory R&P gears that come pre-lapped (pre-broken in).

New aftermarket gears run significantly hotter during the break-in and they'll run a lot cooler when lubed with a conventional than with a synthetic. This is why aftermarket gear manufacturers like Yukon and Revolution Gear and aftermarket axle manufacturers like Currie and Dynatrac specify only conventional gear lubes.
 
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