Rust proofing from road salt

If I absolutely had to drive one in the salt I would keep the bottom coated with a mixture of transmission fluid and PB blaster and Dawn 32/8/1 in ounces -

My 04 had mild surface rust on the axles- it is awesome. You can wipe the rust off with a towel.

What got my attention was people that live in salt areas that had transmission fluid leaks noticed they had no rust where the fluid spread.

47671E68-A351-4D08-87F5-E713E3390ECA.jpeg


But please take it with a grain of salt🥴
 
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i use crc marine rust inhibitor on problem areas and then fluid film all over.

with fluid film use a spray wand to coat inside of cavities. make sure to remove the fender flares and spray inside holes in the body they cover up.
 
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AndyG said:
If I absolutely had to drive one in the salt I would keep the bottom coated with a mixture of transmission fluid and PB blaster and Dawn 32/8/1 in ounces -

My 04 had mild surface rust on the axles- it is awesome. You can wipe the rust off with a towel.

What got my attention was people that live in salt areas that had transmission fluid leaks noticed they had no rust where the fluid spread.

View attachment 395717

But please take it with a grain of salt🥴
Click to expand...

I see what you did there... ;);)

That there is interesting. Most of my undercarriage is done with POR15. Axle's, CAs, frame..


I do the inside of the frame rails each year with Fluid Film Black. The first time I did it, I covered all the holes in the frame with tape. It wasn't really necessary. I do plan the FF application strategically and do it when I know I can leave the Jeep parked someplace other than my driveway so drips and drops aren't a problem.

FF definitely needs to revisit the spray cap that attaches to the hose. It's useless. I now modify a standard spray cap to accept the hose from the FF. Works more better...
 
My TJ has spent its entire life in the rust belt and winter salt. I have owned it for 15 years and have it sprayed with Krown rust inhibitor in the fall before the salt season begins. It's an oily film spray thats applied inside the body panels and frame as well as coating the undercarriage. I purposely DON'T wash the underside in the winter. My thinking is the Krown spray is sitting between the metal parts and salt solution. Washing the underside will remove the salt solution, and the Krown spray as well so why do that? Also, some car washes recycle their wash water, so spray some of that salty solution right back on. Wait until the salt season is done. Then give the underside a thorough cleaning. Touch up any rust areas, then reapply Krown or product of your choice if you wish. Now my TJ is not completely rust free, wasn't when I bought it when it was 8 years old. But this practice has kept the rot at bay for years.
 
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You guys that fight rust have my respect. Salty water is insidious.
 
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aidanm said:
I’m going to be starting college later this year and will be moving to Michigan from Virginia with my TJ. I’ve already used both of the rust oleum spray products and am not sure if this will truly help with preventing rust from the road salt or if there is another product. If anyone has any ideas they would be greatly welcomed. Also any ideas to get the road salt off after a drive would be greatly appreciated. Trying to keep the frame as rust free as I can like it is now.
Click to expand...

I'm going to assume that since you're young and college is expensive that you'll be parking outside. My suggestion would be to use Surface Shield and see if you can get an unlimited carwash pass. The Surface Shield will protect the frame and susceptible body panels in between washes.
My 2005 LJ has 262,000 miles and and it's been in Minnesota since May 2012. Until I started working from home in January of 2021, it was driven every day and still does not have so much as a rusty bolt.

It's been suggested to drill drain holes in the bottom of the frame. Though I don't necessarily disagree with doing so, I think you're much better off keeping water and debris our of the frame to begin with, which is why I suggest plugging those large holes in the outer frame rails. I also cover the rest of the holes in the outer frame rails with electrical tape in the fall. If you do add drain holes and then spray water inside the frame, make sure that you use compressed air to get all of the water out and follow up with Surface Sheid to make sure the water does not remain in contact with the frame surface.

Frame

Start by spraying Surface Shield inside the frame rails with the extension wand. There are enough holes in the outer frame rail that you can coat the entire inner surface. After the inside is protected, cover all of the holes in the outer frame rail using the plugs and electrical tape then get underneath and spray the inner frame rails (and everything else in sight while you're there), followed by the outer frame rails. You can also go around and coat the axles, steering and suspension. The idea is to coat everything that will be exposed to salty road spray, except for the exhaust and brakes.

Body Panels

There are 2 areas that tend to collect salty road spray and rust very quickly: The front fenders and the rear tub below the taillights. The rear of the tub has a pinch weld that runs vertical and when it starts to rust, it will do so from the inside out. To prevent this, you simply need to pull the rear well liner down and stray the inside of the tub with the Surface Shield. If you need replacement push pins, these are the same size as the original.

The torque box can also collect road spray. On the underside, below the floor pans, you'll see several holes. Just spray Surface Shield inside.

Because the front fenders will get a lot of road spray, the underside should be fully coated with Surface Shield. You'll also find that a lot of TJs develop rust on the top of the fender (from the inside out). This is because there is a support bracket welded to the underside and if any salt gets in there, there is very little protection from the factory to keep it from eating through the fender. There are, however, a couple of holes at the front of the support bracket that allow you to fill the cavity with Surface Shield.

View attachment 395937

When you are coating the fame and underside, spray Surface Shield everywhere except the exhaust and brakes. I found that Surface Shield will not easily washed off with a pressure washer but even Fluid Film will remain on the surface for years and years as long as it does not get direct high pressure. In fact, the Fluid Film I sprayed on the underside of the tub, above the transfer case, in 2012 is still there.

Below is a photo of my LJ's frame after 11.5 Minnesota Winters (pic taken today). Because it's still winter, it is coated in surface shield.

View attachment 395939

For anyone interested in a home carwash, I picked up a Greenworks 40V 800 PSI Portable Pressure Washer a few months ago that works great. I wash my Jeep in my garage and then sweep out the water afterwards.
 
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AjRagno said:
I'm going to assume that since you're young and college is expensive that you'll be parking outside. My suggestion would be to use Surface Shield and see if you can get an unlimited carwash pass. The Surface Shield will protect the frame and susceptible body panels in between washes.
My 2005 LJ has 262,000 miles and and it's been in Minnesota since May 2012. Until I started working from home in January of 2021, it was driven every day and still does not have so much as a rusty bolt.

It's been suggested to drill drain holes in the bottom of the frame. Though I don't necessarily disagree with doing so, I think you're much better off keeping water and debris our of the frame to begin with, which is why I suggest plugging those large holes in the outer frame rails. I also cover the rest of the holes in the outer frame rails with electrical tape in the fall. If you do add drain holes and then spray water inside the frame, make sure that you use compressed air to get all of the water out and follow up with Surface Sheid to make sure the water does not remain in contact with the frame surface.

Frame

Start by spraying Surface Shield inside the frame rails with the extension wand. There are enough holes in the outer frame rail that you can coat the entire inner surface. After the inside is protected, cover all of the holes in the outer frame rail using the plugs and electrical tape then get underneath and spray the inner frame rails (and everything else in sight while you're there), followed by the outer frame rails. You can also go around and coat the axles, steering and suspension. The idea is to coat everything that will be exposed to salty road spray, except for the exhaust and brakes.

Body Panels

There are 2 areas that tend to collect salty road spray and rust very quickly: The front fenders and the rear tub below the taillights. The rear of the tub has a pinch weld that runs vertical and when it starts to rust, it will do so from the inside out. To prevent this, you simply need to pull the rear well liner down and stray the inside of the tub with the Surface Shield. If you need replacement push pins, these are the same size as the original.

The torque box can also collect road spray. On the underside, below the floor pans, you'll see several holes. Just spray Surface Shield inside.

Because the front fenders will get a lot of road spray, the underside should be fully coated with Surface Shield. You'll also find that a lot of TJs develop rust on the top of the fender (from the inside out). This is because there is a support bracket welded to the underside and if any salt gets in there, there is very little protection from the factory to keep it from eating through the fender. There are, however, a couple of holes at the front of the support bracket that allow you to fill the cavity with Surface Shield.

View attachment 395937

When you are coating the fame and underside, spray Surface Shield everywhere except the exhaust and brakes. I found that Surface Shield will not easily washed off with a pressure washer but even Fluid Film will remain on the surface for years and years as long as it does not get direct high pressure. In fact, the Fluid Film I sprayed on the underside of the tub, above the transfer case, in 2012 is still there.

Below is a photo of my LJ's frame after 11.5 Minnesota Winters (pic taken today). Because it's still winter, it is coated in surface shield.

View attachment 395939

For anyone interested in a home carwash, I picked up a Greenworks 40V 800 PSI Portable Pressure Washer a few months ago that works great. I wash my Jeep in my garage and then sweep out the water afterwards.
Click to expand...

Not sure I understand how the adaptor works with the SS can and the wand. I haven't bought the items you suggested yet, so I'm just trying to visualize it. Does the adaptor attach to the SS can and then the wand cap attaches to the adaptor? Thanks.
 
Rcroane said:
Not sure I understand how the adaptor works with the SS can and the wand. I haven't bought the items you suggested yet, so I'm just trying to visualize it. Does the adaptor attach to the SS can and then the wand cap attaches to the adaptor? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Yes, you've got it. You'll end up using the extension wand and the cap that comes with the wand as well as the blue adaptor. Those blue adaptors come with caps, you just won't use them.
 
AjRagno said:
Yes, you've got it. You'll end up using the extension wand and the cap that comes with the wand as well as the blue adaptor. Those blue adaptors come with caps, you just won't use them.
Click to expand...

So, now I'm still confused. I picked up the Surface Shield and got the adaptors in the mail. Either I bought the wrong adaptors or the SS can has changed. The adaptors I have are female and so is the top of the SS can when you remove its cap. I haven't received the extension wand yet, but I'm assuming the cap is male? If that's the case, I should be able to attach it directly to the SS can. Or, I'm just an idiot and can't figure this out...which is entirely possible.
 
Mac57 said:
My TJ has spent its entire life in the rust belt and winter salt. I have owned it for 15 years and have it sprayed with Krown rust inhibitor in the fall before the salt season begins. It's an oily film spray thats applied inside the body panels and frame as well as coating the undercarriage. I purposely DON'T wash the underside in the winter. My thinking is the Krown spray is sitting between the metal parts and salt solution. Washing the underside will remove the salt solution, and the Krown spray as well so why do that? Also, some car washes recycle their wash water, so spray some of that salty solution right back on. Wait until the salt season is done. Then give the underside a thorough cleaning. Touch up any rust areas, then reapply Krown or product of your choice if you wish. Now my TJ is not completely rust free, wasn't when I bought it when it was 8 years old. But this practice has kept the rot at bay for years.
Click to expand...

Krown does well. I have seen great results on vehicles that have been salt driven for many years. The key is getting the applicator to do a good job.... I think it does better than fluid film. I have no tried the PB.

I had a Chevy Cavalier in college and bought my LJ to replace it. I then decided to nurse the Cavalier through the remaining 2+ years of school so the LJ didn't have to see salt (I think I had to drive it once or twice). I have no regrets in the decision not to drive the LJ, in fact I somewhat miss the Cavalier...
 
Found a product called Salt’s gone and routinely use it on my daughters’ TJs. It really washes the salt away when using it in a pressure tank sprayer with hot water. Really quick to do and doesn’t use much water. Supposedly neutralizes it too. Their Jeeps are daily drivers that are rust free and trying to keep them that way! Also use Fluid Film in all the inaccessible areas inside frame and between fender braces under front fenders, etc. As for my Rubicon………..it goes into hibernation!



https://saltsgone.com/
 
Rcroane said:
So, now I'm still confused. I picked up the Surface Shield and got the adaptors in the mail. Either I bought the wrong adaptors or the SS can has changed. The adaptors I have are female and so is the top of the SS can when you remove its cap. I haven't received the extension wand yet, but I'm assuming the cap is male? If that's the case, I should be able to attach it directly to the SS can. Or, I'm just an idiot and can't figure this out...which is entirely possible.
Click to expand...

It's possible that they changed the can but I last ordered in the fall and everything was the same as the previous year.

Surface Shield vs Fluid Film:
View attachment 402105
 
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